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Old 20 April 2003, 19:59   #21
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You need a brolly first

A sorta nut on a plate.
If you use this method you will have to beef up the area, on the seat, adjacent to the bolt holes because there are so few areas taking all the load.
Sikaflex is the product. Unlike silicone sealer, it will go off in the tube once opened. Don't expect to use half of it and go back in a month to use the rest.

If using self tappers:
1) don't drill right through the deck.
2) do drill the correct size of pilot hole.
3) don't overtighten the screw.

So many folk tighten until they feel a little bit of give. At that point the thread has just been broken. Remember, with any screw or bolt. Tighten to hold the article in place only. The load will further stress it. It is no use being on the brink of maximum strength and then expecting the thing to take a load also. Common sense you would think. But....

JW.
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Old 21 April 2003, 03:31   #22
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How does one secure this masterpiece to the deck?
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Old 21 April 2003, 04:05   #23
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Dirk, we seemed to have two threads on the same subject. perhaps if JK has a free moment between changing nappies he could combine them together.

< Done! Hope it still all makes sense! JK >

In essence six machined aluminium top hats fixed to the deck.

Its no master piece and doesn't quite have the Sunseeker finish but in an 8 year old rib used for diving (lots of knocks) and teaching its not a problem. The finish has the stippled GRP look with a coat of resin over the top to protect it and give a smooth finish.

Pete
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Old 21 April 2003, 07:37   #24
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Cutting foam

Now the threads are joined. I see there is a bit I missed.

Use an electric carving knife. Dead easy. If you need a long straight edge, clamp the foam down until it is fully crushed. Use a piece of angle iron or a batten of wood and G cramp it or screw it down. Then take a Stanley knife and simply slice along the batten using it as a guide. When you release the foam it'll be as straight as a die.

JW.
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Old 21 April 2003, 13:39   #25
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Thanks JW, just wish I had thought of that.

Pete
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Old 22 April 2003, 18:38   #26
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Pete,

Any advice on where to get hold of the "Top Hats" ?

Cheers

Mike
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Old 23 April 2003, 02:27   #27
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Mike, there is a little engineering firm (called Portchester Engineering) just down the road from me. I took them a drawing of what shape I wanted and asked them to machine them from Aluminium. By using a normal engineering firm you avoid the "marine" prices. They now make all the bits of Aluminium or Stainless I need. Suggest you try the Yellow Pages. They cost 5 each to machine.

Lining them up was a bit tricky. I cut small pilot holes in the seat base first from the underside of the seat, put the seat in the boat and then drilled through these holes to mark the spot on the deck before cutting out the big holes with an ordinary tank cutter.

The top hats had counter sunk holes for the screws so they wouldn't protude above the top hats.

Pete
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Old 23 April 2003, 06:40   #28
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Pete7, Do you put them in from the top so that it's only the wee screws holding them down that are taking the seat loads?

JW.
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Old 23 April 2003, 17:15   #29
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Yep all 24 of them, although the deck on my ribtec is 18mm thick and the screws go into a stringer on one side. In addition to the self tappers the top hats are set in with epoxy resin. If I was fitting the seat permanently I would do something else but I need the space to go diving therefore the seat needs to be easily removable and this is the best solution I could think of, although I am open to other ideas. No access to the under side of the deck though because there is a fuel tank in the way, unfortunately.

Pete
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Old 23 April 2003, 19:48   #30
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Ok. I've never seen them used like that. They normally go in from the underside and the flange takes the load. The small screws holding the top hat simply prevent them rotating or falling into the hull.

JW.
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