DIY Jockey Seat - Page 2

jwalker · 20 April 2003, 23:59

You need a brolly first

A sorta nut on a plate.
If you use this method you will have to beef up the area, on the seat, adjacent to the bolt holes because there are so few areas taking all the load.
Sikaflex is the product. Unlike silicone sealer, it will go off in the tube once opened. Don't expect to use half of it and go back in a month to use the rest.

If using self tappers:
1) don't drill right through the deck.
2) do drill the correct size of pilot hole.
3) don't overtighten the screw.

So many folk tighten until they feel a little bit of give. At that point the thread has just been broken. Remember, with any screw or bolt. Tighten to hold the article in place only. The load will further stress it. It is no use being on the brink of maximum strength and then expecting the thing to take a load also. Common sense you would think. But....

JW.

Dirk Diggler · 21 April 2003, 07:31

How does one secure this masterpiece to the deck?

Pete7 · 21 April 2003, 08:05

Dirk, we seemed to have two threads on the same subject. perhaps if JK has a free moment between changing nappies he could combine them together.

< Done! Hope it still all makes sense! JK >

In essence six machined aluminium top hats fixed to the deck.

Its no master piece and doesn't quite have the Sunseeker finish but in an 8 year old rib used for diving (lots of knocks) and teaching its not a problem. The finish has the stippled GRP look with a coat of resin over the top to protect it and give a smooth finish.

Pete

jwalker · 21 April 2003, 11:37

Now the threads are joined. I see there is a bit I missed.

Use an electric carving knife. Dead easy. If you need a long straight edge, clamp the foam down until it is fully crushed. Use a piece of angle iron or a batten of wood and G cramp it or screw it down. Then take a Stanley knife and simply slice along the batten using it as a guide. When you release the foam it'll be as straight as a die.

JW.

Pete7 · 21 April 2003, 17:39

Thanks JW, just wish I had thought of that.

Pete

Mike B · 22 April 2003, 22:38

Pete,

Any advice on where to get hold of the "Top Hats" ?

Cheers

Mike

Pete7 · 23 April 2003, 06:27

Mike, there is a little engineering firm (called Portchester Engineering) just down the road from me. I took them a drawing of what shape I wanted and asked them to machine them from Aluminium. By using a normal engineering firm you avoid the "marine" prices. They now make all the bits of Aluminium or Stainless I need. Suggest you try the Yellow Pages. They cost £5 each to machine.

Lining them up was a bit tricky. I cut small pilot holes in the seat base first from the underside of the seat, put the seat in the boat and then drilled through these holes to mark the spot on the deck before cutting out the big holes with an ordinary tank cutter.

The top hats had counter sunk holes for the screws so they wouldn't protude above the top hats.

Pete

jwalker · 23 April 2003, 10:40

Pete7, Do you put them in from the top so that it's only the wee screws holding them down that are taking the seat loads?

JW.

Pete7 · 23 April 2003, 21:15

Yep all 24 of them, although the deck on my ribtec is 18mm thick and the screws go into a stringer on one side. In addition to the self tappers the top hats are set in with epoxy resin. If I was fitting the seat permanently I would do something else but I need the space to go diving therefore the seat needs to be easily removable and this is the best solution I could think of, although I am open to other ideas. No access to the under side of the deck though because there is a fuel tank in the way, unfortunately.

Pete

jwalker · 23 April 2003, 23:48

Ok. I've never seen them used like that. They normally go in from the underside and the flange takes the load. The small screws holding the top hat simply prevent them rotating or falling into the hull.

JW.

Pete7 · 24 April 2003, 09:22

Yes I agree ideally they would be used from the underside of the deck. Unfortunately I just can't reach there and am none to keen to drill holes all over the place to reach in and over the top of the fuel tank. It is a compromise but works well enough.

Pete

Mike B · 24 April 2003, 13:12

What do people think about screwing and sekoflexing a rectangular grp'ed frame roughly an inch high to the deck. which the seat fits over with a few (10 +) ss bolts holding the seat to the frame ?

Most of the time I would like to have the seat in but would like the flexability of taking it out and can put up with the inconvenience of the frame on the deck.

Any thoughts ?

Pete7 · 24 April 2003, 18:20

Mike, if you going to use a frame it may be better to use epoxy resin and glass it in, both underneath and over the top with screws for additional security. I did consider this but it would leave a trip hazard. It might be better to use a sheet of 18 mm marine ply with top hats mounted from the underneath. Glassed in this could be very strong.

Osprey used this method to secure bottle racks into there later XR series of boats as some of the boats have a deck core which precludes using through deck fittings. They used a sheet of ply probably 4 x 5 feet glassed over.

Pete

Mike B · 25 April 2003, 09:03

Pete,

Thanks, the glassed in ply with top hats sounds like a good idea.

Cheers

Mike

narked · 08 September 2003, 23:58

Ah finally found this thread after a bit of searching.

Loads of helpful advice. Had an interesting time reading through it now that I'm considering a small searider, and I'm thinking of putting a jockey seat (possibly 2 seater) and console in.

If I manage to get hold of one, I'm considering putting a fuel tank in the jockey seat, so I reckon the "tophat" system would be the best route to take to allow access to the tank incase anything needs replacing. The padded part of the seat would be removable from the frame for refuelling purposes however.

Also wondering whether to build the console and seat as a combined thing, or 2 seperate entities. Any comments?

Cheers,
Matt