Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 25 September 2016, 15:08   #1
Member
 
cjj216's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancashire
Make: Humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 140
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 123
Deck remedial work

As mentioned in another post, I'm considering installing captive bolts to make my rear pod seats removable.
Watching Humber threads over the years, I'm half expecting to find that the underside of my deck will be bare ply. Hopefully, the ply won't have any rot.
Bearing in mind I'll be removing all of my pod seats as I'm glassing in the two side by side console pods.
Do you think It's feasible to take strips out of the deck, say 250mm wide, at say 500mm centres to gain access to coat the underside of the deck and then glass in replacement strips that have had the underside sealed?
This is all hypothetical at the moment. Hopefully, the underside of the deck wasn't built on a Monday and will be sealed!
__________________

__________________
cjj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25 September 2016, 15:57   #2
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Seashell
Make: Redbay
Length: 7m +
Engine: Inboard diesel
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,263
I personally wouldn't start ripping up bits of deck unless I really had to - Humber aren't known for soggy deck issues, so if it ain't broke..... Cutting extra access holes etc is only going to weaken the deck and give the moisture somewhere else to hide in time.
__________________

__________________
Tim M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25 September 2016, 16:30   #3
Member
 
cjj216's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancashire
Make: Humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 140
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 123
I agree. I won't be mending anything that's not broken.
In any case, I need to create an access hole beneath both rear pod seats if I'm to do a proper job of installing the captive bolts.
Hopefully, I'll find the underneath of the deck with some sort of coating.
Judging by the Humber threads over the years I reckon I've a 50/50 chance of finding bad things under there.
Would be a shame as the boat is in very good order everywhere else.
In anticipation of this I just wondered whether the method I've proposed is feasible remedial work or would it be a complete deck off job to maintain any structural integrity the deck gives?
All my cables and fuel lines are above deck in a conduit so once the seats are out, removing the rear 2/3rds of the deck and replacing wouldn't appear to be such a major task. Or have I missed something?
As I said earlier, it's all pie in the sky until I cut the holes. I suppose I'm just thinking out loud really.
__________________
cjj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25 September 2016, 17:01   #4
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Mercury
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
MMSI: 235074042
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,573
My ribquest was built the same it had two 4 inch hatches to gain access to the A frame bolts what your contemplating is a massive job you would have to clean the wood first then apply a coating and through holes that need to be water tight , I would fit a hatch at each seat site so you can bolt through water tight ( sika)if you drill a hole and put an inspection camera in , you can find the stringers/ bulkheads and plan from there get good hatches though if you do ( bomar)Your floor should be good if no water has got in. Has it got a keel drain mine did and was left out when ashore.
__________________
jeffstevens763@g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25 September 2016, 18:04   #5
Member
 
cjj216's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancashire
Make: Humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 140
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 123
I need to fit bighead bolts in to the deck.
Reading on various forums, the consensus seems to be to cut out the deck where the bolts are to be fitted. Seal the edges of the hole then cut a piece of marine ply longer, but slightly narrower than the hole you've just cut, seal all edges and sides, and screw through the deck to fix this to the underside of deck thus creating a 20mm recessed platform to sit the bolts on and glass in.
Somebody stop me if I've got this wrong!
I'm just thinking of the threads over the years regarding Humber decks and thought that if the underside of the deck is showing any issues then this would be the time to carry out any remedial work and seal correctly as the seats would be removed.
There is a bung in the front anchor locker and in the rear well. This set up means the hull does get water in but it's let out through the rear bung, in to the well and then out via the 12v pump or, if under way, the elephants trunk.
On a couple of occasions over the years (the boat was 12 months old when I got it) I've left it on a mooring for a couple of days and forgot the rear bung. It's p**sed down and the hull has had a load of water in.
This has been let out and when not in use the boat is in a shed, under cover, With the bungs out.
All will be revealed when I cut these holes!
__________________
cjj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25 September 2016, 18:22   #6
Member
 
HUMBER P4VWL's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,013
Humber claim to seal the under deck and I've not seen any threads on soggy decks on here, perhaps I've missed them? Which do you mean?

Most soggy decks I've seen on here on other makes are from poorly installed screws, hatches, jockeys etc not the deck itself.

I'd have thought you'd be fine but you never know I guess. Time will tell!
__________________
HUMBER P4VWL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25 September 2016, 19:42   #7
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,962
Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL View Post
Humber claim to seal the under deck and I've not seen any threads on soggy decks on here, perhaps I've missed them? Which do you mean?

Most soggy decks I've seen on here on other makes are from poorly installed screws, hatches, jockeys etc not the deck itself.

I'd have thought you'd be fine but you never know I guess. Time will tell!
I agree with Mr.HUMBER P4VWL.

And why don't you use self tappers and save yourself a whole lot of grief? Done properly they are a very strong fastening.
__________________
JW.
jwalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 September 2016, 02:32   #8
Member
 
gtflash's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,318
Got any pictures of what your deck looks like and what you plan. ? If you need access to underside, some well placed inspection hatches can look very factory. Maybe the hatches could be under something like the seat pod for example.
__________________
gtflash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 September 2016, 04:38   #9
RIBnet supporter
 
Chris Caton's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,199
any sort of captive fixing can only be as strong as the material it's captive in, so if you start cutting into the deck you're going to compromise the fixing, or have I missed something ................

looking at where you're based, why don't you give Mike Whitham of Whitham Glassfibre a call, he's just outside Ormskirk, I'm sure he'll be able to give you some good advice or even fit the captive nuts for you, he's a top man
__________________
Member of S.A.B.S. (Wirral Division)
Chris Caton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 September 2016, 14:04   #10
Member
 
cjj216's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancashire
Make: Humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 140
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 123
Humber Paul - don't you remember the state of that Humber that Nugent came across a couple of years back?
Not sure why it was like that but the thread went cold after Nugent left a cryptic message implying Humber had contacted him.
Hopefully, that was a one off.

JWalker- I didn't explain myself fully. My current layout is fixed with Sikaflex and self tappers from the factory. Water gets in to the pods so if there's not a full bed of sikaflex at the base then I'd be surprised if the screw holes have had Sika in them. For that reason I want to glass in the front pod seats.
I'd like the option of removing the rear pods to give more space when fishing. Captive bolts would enable this, plus I could put threaded eyes in when the seats are out and strap down my tub for live sandeel.

gtflash - access hatches are an option, although probably not needed once the works is done.

Chris - I've spoke to Mike. He's up for doing the work and at a very reasonable price! He agrees that to fit the bolts properly he'd need to cut access holes but reckons any ply edges exposed when cutting, and all faces and edges of ply used to repair the holes would be fully sealed.
It looks like I'd be best doing a couple of weekends in work and transferring those funds to Mike - He certainly knows his stuff!
__________________

__________________
cjj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:28.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.