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Old 31 March 2011, 15:29   #21
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Originally Posted by Richard Selman View Post
Bogmonster/Hightower - are you using through-hull transducers? Straight through which means that the beam is point aft a bit or angled so its vertical (or a little forward)?

Richard
I took the casing off a transom mounted transducer and Sikaflexed the transducer directly to the planing wedge area, one side of the centre stringer. I then braced the top of the transducer to keep it even more secure.
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Old 31 March 2011, 20:54   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Selman View Post
Bogmonster/Hightower - are you using through-hull transducers? Straight through which means that the beam is point aft a bit or angled so its vertical (or a little forward)?

Richard
Mine was one of these in hull transducers http://www.sailgb.com/p/Garmin-010-10327-00-transducer/

Unfortunately it was fitted wrong when the boat was built (the instructions about calculating deadrise angles are a bit sh^te ) so it was pointing off to one side rather than straight down, and didn't work well.

I got a replacement base for it and was going to try and fit it properly as per instructions, but I couldn't shift the old base with anything, God knows what they stuck it on to the hull with but I hope the rest of the boat was made with it as it will last till the next millennium!

Anyway I decided to do a bodge and see if it worked, so I took out the transducer and stuck it on the hull with some silicone type stuff (a glue variety called Stixall) in a flat spot just to the port side of the keel stringer, so it's pointing near enough straight down. This contravenes the instructions which say you should mount it on the side the prop travels downwards, ie starboard side in a normal rotation engine, but it works like a beauty up to 35 knots in 100+ feet of water, not tried it any faster than that yet, but I'm happy! Thinking about it, at speed the hull would tend to list to port with prop torque, so I'm not sure the instructions make sense, but it works where it is anyway so that is where it is staying. Can take a photo of exactly where I put it if you want?
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Old 01 April 2011, 00:04   #23
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Going to put a through hull transducer in. No angle - just vertical. Spoke to Mike about cutting a bit of the 'stringer' away to make it fit but he said that it is not there for the strength but to duct water from the forward of the fuel tanks to the back of the boat since the tank section is filled with foam. Its only a plastic U section lightly glassed in. He said just to cut it away so I did.

Going to mount it right on the centreline of the planing pad. Can't see that requirement for being on the port side being too much of an issue. Only going to make it a few cms farther away from the falling prop.

You were right - there is another bulkhead about 6" forward of the hatch hole. Glad I saw Gotchiguy's photo as I was thinking of cutting further forward.

Hope there are drain holes in the transom box ducting as this would explain a lot. Sat in the rain with the console top offf for a while. Also hosed out the transom boxes and console after drilling all the holes.

Richard
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Old 01 April 2011, 07:39   #24
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Originally Posted by BogMonster View Post
Mine was one of these in hull transducers http://www.sailgb.com/p/Garmin-010-10327-00-transducer/

Unfortunately it was fitted wrong when the boat was built (the instructions about calculating deadrise angles are a bit sh^te ) so it was pointing off to one side rather than straight down, and didn't work well.

I got a replacement base for it and was going to try and fit it properly as per instructions, but I couldn't shift the old base with anything, God knows what they stuck it on to the hull with but I hope the rest of the boat was made with it as it will last till the next millennium!

Anyway I decided to do a bodge and see if it worked, so I took out the transducer and stuck it on the hull with some silicone type stuff (a glue variety called Stixall) in a flat spot just to the port side of the keel stringer, so it's pointing near enough straight down. This contravenes the instructions which say you should mount it on the side the prop travels downwards, ie starboard side in a normal rotation engine, but it works like a beauty up to 35 knots in 100+ feet of water, not tried it any faster than that yet, but I'm happy! Thinking about it, at speed the hull would tend to list to port with prop torque, so I'm not sure the instructions make sense, but it works where it is anyway so that is where it is staying. Can take a photo of exactly where I put it if you want?
Stixall, great stuff at a great price. I'm using this stuff for all my fitting now, much cheaper than Sikaflex and just as good.

The instructions about positioning the mount on the prop downwards side is only really relevant to the transducer being mounted behind the prop as on some cruisers and Yachts. There's no problem with outboards and leg drives etc.
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Old 01 April 2011, 07:44   #25
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Going to put a through hull transducer in. No angle - just vertical. Spoke to Mike about cutting a bit of the 'stringer' away to make it fit but he said that it is not there for the strength but to duct water from the forward of the fuel tanks to the back of the boat since the tank section is filled with foam. Its only a plastic U section lightly glassed in. He said just to cut it away so I did.

Going to mount it right on the centreline of the planing pad. Can't see that requirement for being on the port side being too much of an issue. Only going to make it a few cms farther away from the falling prop.

You were right - there is another bulkhead about 6" forward of the hatch hole. Glad I saw Gotchiguy's photo as I was thinking of cutting further forward.

Hope there are drain holes in the transom box ducting as this would explain a lot. Sat in the rain with the console top offf for a while. Also hosed out the transom boxes and console after drilling all the holes.

Richard
You've created an extra bit of work for yourself, one side of the stringer would have been fine Richard. Just be careful when sealing the transducer to the hull that you don't block that channel up
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Old 01 April 2011, 09:57   #26
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Would have to have done something since the nut on the transducer was bigger than the gap either side. Its probably bigger than the surface mount ones. Prefer it in the middle and away from the planeing pad edge - its really not that wide at that point. Now I have a nice flat surface to seal against.

Thats the hole drilled through the hull now. Hope the transducer arrives before the Easdale trip.......

Not convinced the planeing pad does much but it is a great place to put the transducer where it will not hit when grounded or hit by the trailer.

Richard
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Old 01 April 2011, 10:02   #27
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OK, would have thought the planing pads were pretty much the same size across the Vipermax range. I guess yours is smaller than mine. I'll take a photo over the weekend and show you my installation.
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Old 01 April 2011, 19:33   #28
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The instructions about positioning the mount on the prop downwards side is only really relevant to the transducer being mounted behind the prop as on some cruisers and Yachts. There's no problem with outboards and leg drives etc.
Ah, that makes sense now
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Old 02 April 2011, 04:38   #29
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Water in the hull void - I usually get an egg cup full on each outing, which I put down to water getting in through the cable glands of the stern boxes and then dribbling down into the below deck cable ducting. I spoke to Roy some time ago and he confirmed that there are holes in the underdeck trunking, to minimise the problems of cabling sitting in water. Not a problem if you have a drain bung fitted
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Old 02 April 2011, 19:13   #30
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Water in the hull void - I usually get an egg cup full on each outing, which I put down to water getting in through the cable glands of the stern boxes and then dribbling down into the below deck cable ducting
I get absolutely nothing in the hull of mine, it's bone dry, so the glands shouldn't leak?
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