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Old 10 September 2011, 08:34   #21
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I didn't read it properly, didn't realise it was 2 plates welded together. I guess there was no 4mm "in stock"

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Old 10 September 2011, 08:44   #22
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although at that price I can see why you want to DIY
I can see why Martini is paying attention to this thread.
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Old 10 September 2011, 08:54   #23
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Thanks Guys.

Yep, the two bigger holes in the lower plate are so they can be plug welded to the upper plate, and the mounting holes are for countersunk screws, so are different sizes.

It would have obviously been better to use thicker plate in the first place, but as I picked up 18 of those 2mm thick Stainless discs for nothing, I needed to find a way to use them.
They are the scrap from where some holes have been Lazer cut in a plate, so you can also see the small cuts on the side where the Lazer started it's cut. I was going to weld them up but don't think I'll bother now.

The deck on my Ocean is @30mm thick, so I'll be routing a recess 5mm deep which will allow for the epoxy and sealant when the 4mm thick plates are dropped in. Obviously there will be a deeper hole in the middle of the recess to take the Acorn Nut welded on the back, but as I've reduced these in height to 18mm in my lathe they will not go right through the deck.

Nasher.
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Old 10 September 2011, 12:59   #24
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Just a little taster of what I'm up to with this project

As you can see a Prototype has been knocked up.

So far I've managed to blag all the materials as other peoples waste. Although I had the Stainless M12 Acorn Nuts 'In Stock' from another project.

The Two 2mm plates are plug welded together and the Nuts welded on the back.

I know the water that gets in the hole will just sit there, but I'm happier with that than it draining down through the deck. In any case a quick blast with the pump will get most of it out.

More to follow.

Nasher.
Nasher, are you fixing these on top of the deck or underneath?
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Old 10 September 2011, 16:33   #25
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Nasher, are you fixing these on top of the deck or underneath?
Recessed into the top of the deck and held down with 4 large countersunk screws.

They are only to hold cargo down so don't need to take the weight of the boat or anything.

I've almost finished all six now, and have made a jig to use with my router to get the correct sized recess.

I'll get an image of what I've done as a trial with a scrap of wood instead of the deck.

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Old 10 September 2011, 16:45   #26
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Recessed into the top of the deck and held down with 4 large countersunk screws.

They are only to hold cargo down so don't need to take the weight of the boat or anything.

I've almost finished all six now, and have made a jig to use with my router to get the correct sized recess.

I'll get an image of what I've done as a trial with a scrap of wood instead of the deck.

Nasher.
I think there's a way to fix them under the deck without too much trauma, I can try & explain how, if you've not passed the point of no return
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Old 10 September 2011, 18:29   #27
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I think there's a way to fix them under the deck without too much trauma, I can try & explain how, if you've not passed the point of no return
Thanks anyway, but I'm a bit far along now.
Plus I've also realised that the gap between the underside of the deck and the top of the fuel tank is only about 1/4inch, so I don't have much room to play with.

Been hiding in the garage trying to take my mind off events of earlier this week by making these, but managing to get the boat from the yard to my house for a day whilst I use power tools will probably be a couple of weeks away, so the project is now on hold at this stage.

This is what I've ended up with.

Nasher
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Old 10 September 2011, 19:16   #28
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Have you got anything to polish them up with? Will help a lot with resisting corrosion/tarnishing. Also I recommend tef-gel for the threads and in the countersinks for the same reason.

Nice job though!
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Old 11 September 2011, 05:26   #29
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Have you got anything to polish them up with? Will help a lot with resisting corrosion/tarnishing. Also I recommend tef-gel for the threads and in the countersinks for the same reason.

Nice job though!
These do a fantastic job of electro polishing & it's not too expensive. I've had bits & pieces done by them in the past. If you bead blast the parts first, the finish is even better.
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Old 11 September 2011, 05:55   #30
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They've only had a very rough going over with wet and dry so far just to remove the worst of the marks.

I was planning to polish them up a bit better using the polishing mop I have on one end of my bench grinder. Trouble is, anything too shiny on 'The Nashers Revenge' tends to show the rest of the boat up.

Been there before, put a new nicely polished mudguard on a perfectly good useable motorbike once, and because the rest didn't look as good I ended up completely stripping it to restore it and had to buy another bike to use in the meen time

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