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Old 13 August 2011, 06:01   #11
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amazing what google can do
More
316 Stainless
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Old 13 August 2011, 06:46   #12
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I had a little think on this problem last night. What Nasher suggests is OK for asthetics and functionality, the problem lies with making sure the screws are firmly attached to the deck to prevent them pulling out of the wood.

If you could buy stainless collapsable partition wall inserts that will deform when the screws are done up and anchors the insert into the deck, then that will do the trick nicely.

The only other problem will be water ingress when not in use, so a screw in cap will have to be made and fitted when not being used.
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Old 13 August 2011, 10:58   #13
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Thanks for the suggestions guys
Plenty of food for thought there.

For other reasons I really need them to be completely flush with the deck when not in use.
Unfortunately Polwarts Monitor marine items look particularly good but I don't know how I'd mount them, and I bet they are a bit pricey.

I don't really want to go adding hatches everywhere to gain access to the underside of the deck, and it doesn't matter if the threaded holes are left open when not in use. The area underneath has the fuel tank in it and has large drains back into the well at the transom. Any water in the well backs up into the space anyway, so I often remove the small hatch over the sender and flush it with fresh water.

I'm thinking more about using 3inch discs with 4 screws in each point along with epoxy. With 4 points the engine would have 16 screws and a large area of epoxy holding it down which I'd have thought would be enough.

Need to do some more thinking.

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Old 13 August 2011, 14:21   #14
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Tie Down Points

So, a bit like these then?
Not much use to you unfortunately, I had blind threaded inserts put into the deck during manufacture, and finished them off with the stainless washers that you can see in these shots. They sit nicely flush with the treadmaster.
Simon, you have a PM.
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Old 13 August 2011, 16:53   #15
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Been there - this is what we came up with

Hey Nasher....see my thread /solution here: Removeable Jockeys - How???

We bolt in survey kit, seats, bottle rack, have used them when we have had custom brackets fabricated for tripod mounts etc.....The dowls work brilliantly and haven't budged. We use flush allen headed blanks when not in use greased up with silicon grease. They aren't 316 so I occasionally give them a light wire brush and spray with wd40...they still look like new. Can get you some pics this week if you want.

Am going to do something similar for the Pac, but am able to access beneath the deck there so might just go for the bighead solution.

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Old 15 August 2011, 05:06   #16
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Somewhere on the SIB pages I mooted my idea of using Yacht / dingy jibsheet lead block tracks & then using the travellers that have a simple eye on.

The plus points are that you get a rail that is granted not flush, but pretty close & eminently walkable on, and also means that by using the travelelrs you can have as many and in almost infinitely variable positions along the deck. Traveller cars can be removed when not in use.

My plan was to fit them along the corner where the deck joins the hull, but that's a feature usually only found on Seariders & some Humbers.......
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Old 09 September 2011, 16:14   #17
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Just a little taster of what I'm up to with this project

As you can see a Prototype has been knocked up.

So far I've managed to blag all the materials as other peoples waste. Although I had the Stainless M12 Acorn Nuts 'In Stock' from another project.

The Two 2mm plates are plug welded together and the Nuts welded on the back.

I know the water that gets in the hole will just sit there, but I'm happier with that than it draining down through the deck. In any case a quick blast with the pump will get most of it out.

More to follow.

Nasher.
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Old 09 September 2011, 17:18   #18
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Looking good Nasher, v. similar in principle to ours ....... When not in use, we have recessed allen headed /threaded inserts which are flush and help keep the threads clean.....I lube them with silicone grease.
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Old 10 September 2011, 07:17   #19
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Looking good Nasher,
+1

Although I'm interested to know why one plate has 3 big holes when the others have just one in the centre? And why another has much larger diameter csk holes??
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Old 10 September 2011, 08:10   #20
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+1

Although I'm interested to know why one plate has 3 big holes when the others have just one in the centre? And why another has much larger diameter csk holes??
Ah, I'm glad a professional is asking that - I thought I was just being thick! I guess the difference in diameter of the csk holes is because the two plates are stacked together to get the total thickness hence the top plat has a bigger csk than the bottom? Are the 2 big holes something to do with how the two plates are welded together?

[Edit: Ah - just looked up what plug welding is - and it sound like my guess was about right. Sounds like a lot of effort compared to finding some 4mm plate in the first place?]
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