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Old 08 April 2011, 00:13   #1
Country: UK - England
Town: Truro-Cornwall & Brazil
Boat name: Bananas in Blue
Make: Humber Destroyer 5.5
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-Tec 115
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 378
Cutting D section rubbing strake

I want to cut a small slit into the D section strake on the bow of the RIB as I am fed up of hanging over the bow to clip onto the D-ring when ever I anchor up somewhere and don't want to chafe my tubes. I've seen it done on a few ribs but how/what is the best tool for cutting the rubber?


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Old 08 April 2011, 10:29   #2
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,620
Linoleum knife?

Dremel and cutting wheel?

(oxy-acetylene torch probably wouldn't be a good idea.)


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Old 08 April 2011, 10:39   #3
ribraff's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Town: Dartmouth
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,191
Use 1" masking tape and cut down each side with a Stanley knife, it will cut nice andceasily, just make sure you keep the blade straight. You can then profile the ends with the sanding barrel on a Dremmel or other suitable rotary tool.
Hypalon Tubes built in-house,retubing, repairs, Accessories
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Old 09 April 2011, 05:40   #4
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,851
That grooved bow section doesn't work as well as you might think; once the rubber is cut the sides are not particularly supportive and the bow line can easily distort the rubber and roll out. What I've found does work is to cut the groove and fit a rope from the outside bow fastening, over the bow to an inside fastening keeping it fairly taught. When making up this rope, tie an 'eye' in it with a stainless ferrule inside, position it just over the top of the bow. You can tie off to this for an anchor, a mooring warp, a temporary rope to the trailer when launching etc. I've also found a good method of mooring is to tether the warp inside the front bow but run it through the eye as a guide. The benefits to use and the boat are: easy access to the tie off point for you from within the boat, similarly from outside the boat, it prevents chafing of the tubes and removes the guide problem over the bow when anchoring. I might add that I also have a section of flat strake from the D section down the tube into the boat to prevent any fretting that could occur. It shows no sign of this though even after many years of use.
It does leave the eye protruding a wee bit when not in use and I know many of the ribnetters are bling merchants first so it may offend their sensitivity. I don't have this emotional problem.
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Old 09 April 2011, 11:06   #5
Country: UK - England
Town: Northampton
Make: RibTec
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outbaord mariner 75
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 506
I tie the anchor line to the painter line off the front D ring on my hull.
Make is alot smoother and more confatable when moored up as the anchor pulls the painter and then the hull and doesnt run over the tubes under any load.

Nice and easy to recover as you do the right knott and one good pull on the loose end of the anchor line and its undone from the painter and back in the boat.

Nice, easy and no rubbed tubes.
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