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Old 27 September 2007, 08:55   #21
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And probably 18 previous threads on how to do it.
I love ribNET hole cutting threads. Can we have a console change thread next please?

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Originally Posted by zodiacman View Post
18 posts on how to cut a hole!!! this is the only way to do it, draw a X roughly where you want the hole and hit it with a 2lb lump hammer then duct tape the speaker over the hole.
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Old 27 September 2007, 11:48   #22
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And probably 18 previous threads on how to do it.
I love ribNET hole cutting threads. Can we have a console change thread next please?
Plenty more mileage in this one - before it's over, we also need to see lots of pics of the entire process and these should illustrate that the operator is wearing a dustproof suit, gloves, steel toecap boots, safety specs, chainsaw trousers, a hard hat (in date), and most importantly that the console has been earthed

I also hope he's using tinned cable for the speakers
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Old 27 September 2007, 12:09   #23
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Quote:
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Plenty more mileage in this one - before it's over, we also need to see lots of pics of the entire process and these should illustrate that the operator is wearing a dustproof suit, gloves, steel toecap boots, safety specs, chainsaw trousers, a hard hat (in date), and most importantly that the console has been earthed

I also hope he's using tinned cable for the speakers
Hope there is not any kids in the photos of any one cutting any holes.
can you get jig-saws with kill cords????
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Old 27 September 2007, 19:26   #24
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wise words

http://www.artistdirect.com/nad/wind...7-WMLO,00.html
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Old 27 September 2007, 21:58   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai View Post
Plenty more mileage in this one - before it's over, we also need to see lots of pics of the entire process and these should illustrate that the operator is wearing a dustproof suit, gloves, steel toecap boots, safety specs, chainsaw trousers, a hard hat (in date), and most importantly that the console has been earthed

I also hope he's using tinned cable for the speakers
:rolf: thats so near the truth . I used to have a college asessor
(read jobsworth) come to visit my apprentice on site . He would tell him to put a hard hat on in the customers house when we were fitting a kitchen and then get him to pose with a certain hand tool while he took pics to show evidence for his qualification .
After 2 years the lad still hadn't been taught anything about power tools let alone machines and the ass-essor used to tell me not to let him use any fast spinning sharp power tools ,a sander was about it .
Yet ask any DIY question and people go through the whole Black and decker catalog before choosing the wrong tool .
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Old 28 September 2007, 12:41   #26
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A hole saw is the correct way to tackle this mammoth task, hence the name of the tool.

http://www.starrett.co.uk/products/s...TAL_HOLE_SAWS/

You don't need a huge drill, I normally use an 18 volt battery drill when cutting speaker holes in glass, and also use the same drill to cut 4 1/2" exhaust pipe holes in 2" transoms! You've just got to take it slow.
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Old 28 September 2007, 12:45   #27
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A hole saw is the correct way to tackle this mammoth task, hence the name of the tool.

http://www.starrett.co.uk/products/s...TAL_HOLE_SAWS/

You don't need a huge drill, I normally use an 18 volt battery drill when cutting speaker holes in glass, and also use the same drill to cut 4 1/2" exhaust pipe holes in 2" transoms! You've just got to take it slow.
Charlie says
You can buy a range of different saws for different materials to and remember to check behind the area of the hole for cables etc and tell someone what your doing and when you'll be back
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Old 28 September 2007, 13:02   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
A hole saw is the correct way to tackle this mammoth task, hence the name of the tool.

http://www.starrett.co.uk/products/s...TAL_HOLE_SAWS/

You don't need a huge drill, I normally use an 18 volt battery drill when cutting speaker holes in glass, and also use the same drill to cut 4 1/2" exhaust pipe holes in 2" transoms! You've just got to take it slow.
Thats great I agree a cordless is better etc , but thats £40 for one holesaw , fine if you are using it for your profession , but for a one off ? Also chances are you also need to buy the arbor at another £20 . Plus big powerful cordless drills are not narmally owned by DIYers
Secondly knowing what holesaws are like to use some experience is a very good idea before going in head first with a holesaw that size .
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Old 28 September 2007, 14:27   #29
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Quote:
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.... I normally use an 18 volt battery drill when cutting speaker holes in glass, and also use the same drill to cut 4 1/2" exhaust pipe holes in 2" transoms! You've just got to take it slow.

Poof !....
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Old 28 September 2007, 14:38   #30
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Poof
biggir pewf
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Old 28 September 2007, 18:38   #31
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OI jONO

Why have you posted a picture of a manual bilge pump?
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Old 28 September 2007, 20:55   #32
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Secondly knowing what holesaws are like to use some experience is a very good idea before going in head first with a holesaw that size .

Hmm, gay eh?
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