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Old 19 May 2012, 15:57   #11
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The non-commercial Seariders were not laid up very heavily, the non-flat section in the picture will be flexing a lot, take a look on the outside of the hull at the point where the deck meets the hull, the chances are there'll be stress cracks in this area.
It is going to need grinding back and redoing to prevent this happening again.
Sorry
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Old 19 May 2012, 16:10   #12
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just catching up on this thread, spoke to simon about this yesterday needless to say Im feeling really bad about it all - I seriously believe its to do will the transom knees not fitting the floor and transom perfectly hence sending the force direct to deck and creating this crack just in front it, simon still happy to send up a load of fibreglass matting if you pm your address, I want to help put this right, can we have more pics of the transom and how the supports attached to transom, I seriously suspect to much push/pull on either deck or transom when tightening up transom leg bolts -
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Old 19 May 2012, 16:20   #13
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Like Ed said you'd be best off grinding it back and doing it properly, I do both sides whilst your on with it.
Is there any stress cracks or signs of movement on the transom?
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Old 19 May 2012, 19:29   #14
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Originally Posted by chewy View Post
You'd have to lift the deck and have the knees going down to the hull otherwise your going to have a join in them creating a weak point.
That' s right, I forgot the searider' s hull is not made the same way as my RC.
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Old 20 May 2012, 01:02   #15
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That' s right, I forgot the searider' s hull is not made the same way as my RC.
How are the knees on the RC done?
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Old 20 May 2012, 02:43   #16
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Grinding eek!!! Sounds pretty scary.

I will take some pictures of the supports and where they meet the hull and transom today and put them up.

Looking at the hull and transom though I can't see any cracks or fractures, only the one on the deck. The transom that Olly put in is solid as a rock (thumbs)
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Old 20 May 2012, 03:16   #17
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Thanks Whisper, I have been drooling over your build thread and hope my finished project gets to look half as good as yours did. I spoke to Olly earlier and he suggested i posted up here and see what the general consensus is.

I don't really want to block up the hull as as the boat will be on a mooring and I am sure water will find some way in then i'll be carting around gallons of extra sea But if that is going to be best option then i can re-think that part.
If you're on a swing mooring, 100% close the hole!!!!

Voice of experience. SRs transoms are notoriously low. Sealing it will give you a good inch or so extra freeboard.

When the wind is against the tide your boat will at some point swing stern to waves. This will mean water piles in. You need an auto bilge!!!

Even with one, if the battery is at the rear on deck, rather than in the console, it can get wrecked by a big wave, it shorts and you then have one messy boat and water to the toobs on your return. put your battery in the console, not on deck in a box. Again, sorry voice of experience and three batteries later.

To ensure its sealed, glass it up and fit a bung in it. As you infer, the removable kits leak eventually.
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Old 20 May 2012, 07:13   #18
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Ok here are the shots of how the supports fix to the transom. The there are three penny washers.

One on the outside of the transom, one on the inside between the transom and the support and the last on the outside of the support.

On the deck it is a similar arrangement but instead of a second penny washer there is a square washer that is about 5 or 6mm thick between the deck and the support.
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