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Old 04 March 2006, 08:48   #11
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Originally Posted by Jozz99
..It is possible to have form and function. Jordan's got good form and I bet.......:-)
Nah, the form has been compromised by the addition of a plastic material.
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Old 04 March 2006, 10:25   #12
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Good on you for admitting your "incident". And glad to hear no serious injuries.

I would suggest you give your insurance company a ring. If you (or they) respond quickly you might be able to prevent any serious corrosion etc to the wiring but if you leave it a week or two it might be too late. I have no experience with boat related claims but on both commercial and domestic insurance I have found them to be keen to take a proactive approach to preventing serious damage by getting a small amount of preventative work done.

I doubt there is anyone here who goes out in a F6 and can honestly say that they have NEVER stuffed the boat. So you need to think about how you make sure you can deal with it if it happens again. Sealing the engine bay is obviously one step. Investigating adding elephant trunks or similar "drain" to get the water out as quick as possible. I think changing to an outboard might be a bit extreeme but an auxiliary outboard might be a good idea.
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Old 04 March 2006, 11:12   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polwart
I doubt there is anyone here who goes out in a F6 and can honestly say that they have NEVER stuffed the boat.
Not true, my friend! Assume that you mean a real stuff, and not just a bit of spray over the bow. From what I've seen, most "stuffs" are caused by a combination of poor boat design, driver error and bad luck. I've avoided one and three so far!
Quote:
So you need to think about how you make sure you can deal with it if it happens again. Sealing the engine bay is obviously one step. Investigating adding elephant trunks or similar "drain" to get the water out as quick as possible. I think changing to an outboard might be a bit extreeme but an auxiliary outboard might be a good idea.
Cobras are notorious for not emptying quickly enough in "extreme" situations. I know another former Cobra owner who suffered a very nasty stuff - his was an outboard powered Cobra, and the water could not drain out of the rear as he had bench seats fitted. Like you, Jozz99, he found out how slow electric bilge pumps are to empty a boatful of water. RIBs shold have large "elephants trunks" fitted to drain deck water quickly, and the higher the transom (or engine box or wrapround bench seating) the larger diamater of elephants trunks needed. An engine box full of water is, of course, bad too! The lid should seal, and the air intakes should have a "trap" which will allow water to drain to a bilge pump before entering the main engine box area. Look at the design of an outboard engine cowl - the air enters at the top and any water falls down to the bottom, leaving the cowling by drain holes. The air intake points downwards, and dry air enters upwards. All designs need to be able to cope with water coming from all directions, as simple louvres are open to any water coming over the stern if you need to reverse into waves. Without these measures, you've only got half the advantages of a RIB, and all the disadvantages of an open boat.

Book your Intermediate and Advanced courses straight away! (You may need to complete the Intermediate before booking the Advanced). They are excellent and will tell you a lot about handling a boat in rough conditions.

Good to hear that you and your crew are OK - but next time you should even be able to avoid the bumps from the screen!
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Old 04 March 2006, 11:33   #14
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Originally Posted by Richard B
Not true, my friend! Assume that you mean a real stuff, and not just a bit of spray over the bow. From what I've seen, most "stuffs" are caused by a combination of poor boat design, driver error and bad luck. I've avoided one and three so far!
OK - yes I guess I did mean a "real stuff" - when enough water comes over the bow that you are knee deep in water. And I accept your supperior skill and experience. I guess what I meant was really "no one on here can garuntee they won't stuff the boat" in those conditions (and so the boat needs to have the ability to deal with that much water )... ...but I accept what you say about (1) driver training and (2) boat design as being big factors.
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Old 04 March 2006, 12:38   #15
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Originally Posted by jwalker
Yeh, that's cool. How does it work? Do you have a hull which doesn't make any spray mist?
i didn't say that, i just said the engine has remained bone dry.....

maybe the bench seat in front shields it but either way no water has entered the engine bay
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Old 04 March 2006, 12:47   #16
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Originally Posted by Polwart
OK - yes I guess I did mean a "real stuff" - when enough water comes over the bow that you are knee deep in water. And I accept your supperior skill and experience. I guess what I meant was really "no one on here can garuntee they won't stuff the boat" in those conditions (
Have to agree with Polwart Richard - sorry, trying going though the Alderney Swinge when its on form; you can have any course and rating you like, the water simply opens up in front of you and there is bugger all you can do but hang on. Massive scuppers is the only way to deal with it. My Scorpion unfortunately has to rely on 3 large bilge pumps - crap design at the time.The Hysucat is truly the most amazing rib in getting rid of water extremely quickly, try looking at their design if you can.
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Old 04 March 2006, 13:11   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin F
i didn't say that, i just said the engine has remained bone dry.....

maybe the bench seat in front shields it but either way no water has entered the engine bay
Nah - it's good engine bay design, and decent intakes.

Ribcraft use an intake which baffles the water coming into it, lets it run down the side of the box to the bottom where the 2 big bilge pumps get it out ASAP. Some spray does reach the engine (if it's been an enthusiastic day) but otherwise it works really well.

And the other plus point, the intakes are ABOVE the top of the tubes (as are the other electrics).

Don't laugh - I've seen them in all sorts of stupid positions.

I got caught out crossing a sand bar with wind over tide with a heavy boat - and although we were going very slowly just trying to pick our way through, the waves were steep enough and short enough that we took 3 successive waves over the bow (green water). I didn't notice how much water was in the boat, until I realised that was why my feet were wet in my wellies. With the 2 pumps and the trunks it emptied amazingly fast. Also the contents of the engine box stayed dry.

There is another RIB (BWM?) in the compound, and that has a full width bay, but has drilled holes in the front of the box and the transom, glassed in some skin fittings, and then connected up and piped through to give some drainage 'through' the box - that might be worth thinking about. Luckily mine has enough space down the side of the box to fit the trunks with no problem.

Good to hear that everyone was OK!!

Cheers,

Dylan...

P.S. There isn't much electrical in the engine bay on a Yanmar 315 - what are the symptoms of your problem? I've had a starter relay failure - which had nothing to do with getting wet (immersed) - turn the key and nothing happens.
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Old 04 March 2006, 13:35   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ct01
Have to agree with Polwart Richard - sorry, trying going though the Alderney Swinge when its on form; you can have any course and rating you like, the water simply opens up in front of you and there is bugger all you can do but hang on. Massive scuppers is the only way to deal with it. My Scorpion unfortunately has to rely on 3 large bilge pumps - crap design at the time.The Hysucat is truly the most amazing rib in getting rid of water extremely quickly, try looking at their design if you can.

Not only the Hysucat - the Ocean dynamics boats have no transoms at all - they can shift tons of water in seconds!!! Also the Zapcats have open transoms.

I am suprised at the Scorpion not having proper drains - Cobra's aren't so bad after all.

I think it would be fairly easy to modify boats without trunks - you would need to make holes through the rear mouldings lined with drainpipe leading out to a flexihose/trunk at the back. Could be done quite neatly.

Also a bit of sealing work around the engine bay would work wonders.
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Old 04 March 2006, 14:07   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGR
Ribcraft use an intake which baffles the water coming into it, lets it run down the side of the box to the bottom where the 2 big bilge pumps get it out ASAP. Some spray does reach the engine (if it's been an enthusiastic day) but otherwise it works really well.
I'm pleased to see they've learned by their mistakes.
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Old 04 March 2006, 14:22   #20
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Originally Posted by codprawn
I think it would be fairly easy to modify boats without trunks - you would need to make holes through the rear mouldings lined with drainpipe leading out to a flexihose/trunk at the back. Could be done quite neatly.
Really ??? Come and do mine then!
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