Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 14 August 2010, 08:31   #11
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: I.O.W/Bristol
Boat name: HotShot
Make: shakey
Length: 5m +
Engine: 70hp Tohatsu
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,543
JW, are you saying you can mix this flexible resin (by this I assume you mean normal polyester resin?) to flocoat? I would like the inside of my console and bench seat to be white and hard wearing, not wood coloured as they are now with just the epoxy coating. The other problem I may face is coating over the top of the epoxy with a polyester based resin/flocoat, will that cause problems? I assume the waxy residue that rises to the surface when the epoxy cures can just be sanded back.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but its all relevant I guess
__________________

__________________
slimtim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 August 2010, 08:40   #12
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,841
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker View Post
Wipe the ply with thinners to degrease its surface.
I'd opt for acetone which leaves no residue after evaporation. I tend to blow the area over with a hot airgun to get rid of the acetone.
__________________

__________________
Mollers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 August 2010, 14:45   #13
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,962
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimtim View Post
JW, are you saying you can mix this flexible resin (by this I assume you mean normal polyester resin?) to flocoat?
It's not normal laminating resin, it's flexible resin. You can cast a lump of it and it will bounce if you drop it. You could actually throw it at a concrete floor and it'll bounce. It is softer, as you can imagine and it doesn't hold a shine as well as a normal gel coat but it has it's uses. I don't buy flocoat, I make it up to suit the job. Mollers I respect your choice of acetone but personally I've stopped using it long ago. Spirit wipe and standard thinners depending on application for me.
Slimtim, if the resin is well cured it will be necessary to sand it to achieve a key.
__________________
JW.
jwalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 August 2010, 16:06   #14
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard, Y-162
Make: Aerotec 380, Y-Class
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,692
After starting this topic and back-searching dozens of others there seemed to be so much conflicting advice. I range cfs about this a few times, also resin-supplies.co.uk and another supplier too - all agreed that the only pro way to do it is to:

1: seal the ply (bondaclear G4 etc)
2. glass with at least two layers of csm
3. flocoat on top (with non-slip additive if required - for top of anchor locker in my case).

Preferably all done wet on wet for the best result.

I pressed them on short cuts, ie is glass really needed as the structure itself provided the strength but all said as above without this it will be short term and crack up.
__________________
Max... is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 August 2010, 22:04   #15
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: I.O.W/Bristol
Boat name: HotShot
Make: shakey
Length: 5m +
Engine: 70hp Tohatsu
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,543
If you want a quick but very durable solution then use neat epoxy. Coat it on like varnish and the first coat will soak into the first bit of ply sealing it. After an hour or so (check with CFS, it might not be that long) you can re-coat again (repeat 2-3 times). If you leave it too long, the epoxy will cure and you will get a waxy coating on top that will need to be removed with acetone and a quick rub with sand paper. I've used it on seat bases and inside my consoles and its stood the test of time very well. For your application I think glassing is over kill, I did this on the outside of my console, but I wanted a bit of extra strength and durability.

JW, thanks for the tips, helpful as always
__________________
slimtim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 August 2010, 02:50   #16
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard, Y-162
Make: Aerotec 380, Y-Class
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,692
I should edit the advice I was given and say that it was wet on wet until the last glass which should be allowed to fully cure then sanded back to remove any fibres sticking out before the flocoat.

Slimtim - thanks for the advice. So is epoxy more flexible then and unlikely to crack?

I thought about just using a few coats of G4 sealer on the ply and then a few coats of non slip deckpaint on top of this. Is this likely to last? Does the deckpaint need an undercoat or another primer or will it go straight on top of the G4?

And what would be the best G4 product to use that can be used as a sealer and top coat varnish if necessary?

CFS recommended pond sealer at first but out of these?

http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS...Clear_527.html
http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/G4_Damp_Seal.htm
http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS...aler__519.html
__________________
Max... is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 August 2010, 07:30   #17
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: I.O.W/Bristol
Boat name: HotShot
Make: shakey
Length: 5m +
Engine: 70hp Tohatsu
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,543
The epoxy works just like a varnish, being flexible and allowing the wood to expand and contract but its much more durable. It would be perfect for the seat bases.

As for the locker, are you making like a wooden box? If you want it grey in colour rather than wood/varnish type finish then you could use some sort of international paint. I used Brightside on my console. Can be quite time consuming to get a nice finish though. The other option as discussed previously is to glass the outside. Check out the first post (and there are some other posts later on) on my thread here:

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...student&page=7

Hope it helps.

Cheers,

Tim
__________________
slimtim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 August 2010, 07:51   #18
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard, Y-162
Make: Aerotec 380, Y-Class
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,692
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimtim View Post
As for the locker, are you making like a wooden box? If you want it grey in colour rather than wood/varnish type finish then you could use some sort of international paint. I used Brightside on my console. Can be quite time consuming to get a nice finish though. The other option as discussed previously is to glass the outside. Check out the first post (and there are some other posts later on) on my thread here:

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...student&page=7

Hope it helps.

Cheers,

Tim
Thanks Tim, yes, a top and front piece, sikaflexed with SS screws and a batten inside and the whole thing Sik'd to the inner side of the hull so plenty of strength there. Finish needs to be non-slip grey.
__________________
Max... is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 August 2010, 13:00   #19
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Chichester
Length: no boat
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 215
Another product (more expensive) but definitely more bullet proof is SP Systems EpoSeal.

If one was to go down the road of sheathing the plywood then I would use SP106 and some glass cloth.
__________________

__________________
Stephen-RIB is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 19:55.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.