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Old 30 March 2005, 06:09   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neville
I think if i was going to that length i would pull the drive off..............
Iíve taken it off and stripped it back to bare metal nearly everywhere, but it is some places, like the ram pockets, that are virtually impossible to get to. Iím probably just being lazy but I was hoping for something like a paint stripper that you wipe on and it leaves a shiny finish.
Neville do you have any cork transom gaskets or an external transom hose set, I really loath having to pay Lancing prices. Des
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Old 30 March 2005, 06:15   #12
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Good one, Matt.


The problem with alli is that you are not painting the alli because it reacts with the oxygen in the air instantly. Hence the use of etch primer. However, I've had eff all success with etch primer on outboards. If you don't go with the International or Mercury method here's an idea which I am going to try the next time I need to do the job. It's based on a way to solder aluminium so, since you're tecki folk, you're gonna get that bit first.

Aluminium can be soldered using a normal soldering iron and solder. Give the surface a sanding and immediately cover it with gear oil to exclude the air . Solder through the oil with a scraping action. As the aluminium is scraped by the iron tip, the solder with adhere because there is no oxygen present at the surface. The reason for using gear oil is that it has a goodly quantity of anti-oxidant present in it.

Now, it occured to me that if I cleaned back the aluminium and immediately applied paint and then abraded through the wet paint, it may have a half decent chance of sticking to real aluminium.

Just an idea.
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Old 30 March 2005, 06:41   #13
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JW : The only problem i could see in doing that would be the time taken to clean the oil off, and keeping the surface clean with all that stuff around.

Ive found the only good method is to put the parts in to be beadblasted or grit balsted which leaves a really good mechanical key, and thenive not found much difference in which paint system i used.

Des : I will PM you with an dress to go to in the states for new parts, they beat the hell out of lancing. As for the gaskets, i now use a neporene gasket which we make up ourselves. I found the cork ones prone to leaks on a couple of boats last year, and have since tried using different methods. The last couple i have done have been with a polysuphide sealant on the main face andthen a polyurethane sealer fillet around the outside. That was a method pointed out to me by a company that refurbished sternpowr units a few years ago for the mod.
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Old 30 March 2005, 06:44   #14
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The places to check for cleanness are the penetrators for the hydraulics on the transom assembly, they get dirty and the o rings harden, and as you may have found out the ram bases get corroded. The drives are quite sturdy and a little bit of loose paint wont do them any harm, but bad anodes will!
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Old 30 March 2005, 06:48   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neville
JW : The only problem i could see in doing that would be the time taken to clean the oil off, and keeping the surface clean with all that stuff around.
Neville, you misunderstand, perhaps I didn't make it clear. The plan was to use the paint to exclude the air. The oil is only used for the soldering process.
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Old 30 March 2005, 06:55   #16
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JW I understand what you are saying, bloody tricky but I sure you could do it.
Could you use an oil based paint and its base oil instead of gear oil that way you would not need to clean the surface much before painting

What really surprises me is how confident International are that you only have to sand then paint Des
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Old 30 March 2005, 07:03   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Des
JW I understand what you are saying....................
Ooops I obviously didnít understand what you were saying but now I do will the paint draw the O2 away or isnít that an issue? Des
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Old 30 March 2005, 07:08   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neville
........... i now use a neporene gasket which we make up ourselves..........
Interesting, what grade and thickness
and what do you mean by the penetrators
thanks Des
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Old 30 March 2005, 07:43   #19
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We have developed a sure-fire way of dealing with problems like this with Ali or any of the "exotics".......
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.....give it to some other poor bugger to do...
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Old 30 March 2005, 11:35   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Des
Interesting, what grade and thickness
and what do you mean by the penetrators
thanks Des
I've used hypalon and it's been in place, in diesel fuel, for a couple of years. Seems ok. Just a thought incase you happen to have a bit lying around.
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