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Old 22 February 2008, 05:47   #21
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Originally Posted by Limey Linda View Post
Thanks Pat. I am planning visit to home depot tomorrow after I pick up the new winch.
Have you considered a winch which uses a worm and wheel? It cant slip and you can stop winding at any point even under maximum load. The down side is there's usually no quick release. But my experience of ratchet winch failure is that the release/ratchet mechanism is the week point.
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Old 22 February 2008, 09:41   #22
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Originally Posted by jwalker View Post
Have you considered a winch which uses a worm and wheel? It cant slip and you can stop winding at any point even under maximum load. The down side is there's usually no quick release. But my experience of ratchet winch failure is that the release/ratchet mechanism is the week point.
Thanks, I will look into that.
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Old 22 February 2008, 11:34   #23
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If you don't want it to scratch stuff, stick it in an old bicycle innertube if you can't find a sleeve for it.
Not really sure that's necessary, as the chain runs from wherever it's bolted to the trailer (usually the winch stand) to the eye bolt on the hull. It doesn't really cross anything that could be damaged by scratching. But, hey; it's your rig...

This does bring up another issue, though, and one I need to investigate on my trailer. I remember on my Achilles, the safety chain was attached at one of the bolts holding the winch. I don't know where it is on the Polaris. I will make sure that the bolt shear strength equals the chain strength; won't do much good otherwise.

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Old 22 February 2008, 16:49   #24
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Not really sure that's necessary, as the chain runs from wherever it's bolted to the trailer (usually the winch stand) to the eye bolt on the hull. It doesn't really cross anything that could be damaged by scratching. But, hey; it's your rig...

This does bring up another issue, though, and one I need to investigate on my trailer. I remember on my Achilles, the safety chain was attached at one of the bolts holding the winch. I don't know where it is on the Polaris. I will make sure that the bolt shear strength equals the chain strength; won't do much good otherwise.

jky
After some mental noodling I have come up with the following. The object is to have a safety chain system ( both fore and aft) that is easy to hook up and does not end up with lengths of chain flopping and dragging around that need securing.

Attach a length of 5/16" chain to the winch post and the other end to trailer cross member. Leave just enough slack in the chain to allow a 3/8" carabiner to be coupled between the chain and the bow eye. Cover chain with protective tubing between bow eye and cross member. Only one hook up for both functions and when boat is off trailer chain is still hanging there and no loose ends. Will also use a ratchet strap from winch post end of chain down to trailer for hold down purposes and to take the slack out of the "hold forward" part of the chain. Should be easy to use.
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Old 23 February 2008, 14:01   #25
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Sounds like a good job, LL.

The only other risk is the back of the boat slewing around under a quick deceleration. Though some strong transom straps should help minimize that if the front can't move.

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Old 23 February 2008, 14:10   #26
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Sounds like a good job, LL.

The only other risk is the back of the boat slewing around under a quick deceleration. Though some strong transom straps should help minimize that if the front can't move.

jky
Yup, you are right. I have just invested in a pair of 1000lb ( working load) ratchet straps for the transom. They are not cheap. have no suitable anchor points on the rear of the trailer so will have to drill a couple of holes and attach two 3/8" eye bolts. Will take the opportunity to pump a bunch of oil into the trailer members to reduce the risk of rusting from inside out.
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Old 23 February 2008, 19:31   #27
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I don't have a safety chain, but I use the bow line to secure the boat forward and down. It wraps through the winch support and bow eye 3 times (6 "layers" of rope) before I tie it off... It seems very secure...
The forces, even on a steep hill (mine) are very slight at the moment the boat wants to exit the trailer as no momentum occurs and no inertia must be overcome. Rope chaff is your only enemy but a visual on the dead/live end and what lies in between is a simple pre-flight exercise. Stoo's method of simply beanering the bow line to the winch support post solves the problem. I don't do high speed multi-mile journeys and would re-evaluate were I to do so but for low speed, rough and steep terrain, bow line is fine. KISS (he constantly says to himself).

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Old 23 February 2008, 19:51   #28
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Not really sure that's necessary, as the chain runs from wherever it's bolted to the trailer (usually the winch stand) to the eye bolt on the hull. It doesn't really cross anything that could be damaged by scratching. But, hey; it's your rig...
All I do is loop the chain under the drawbar, behind the winch post and padlock it to the bow eye with a BIG vinyl covered padlock.The chain isn't attached to the trailer-just locked to it. As long as the drawbar doesn't snap (nearly impossible!) it can't move backwards.

After I launch I use the lock/chain to lock the trailer to something as well as the wheelclamp/hitchlock.
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Old 24 February 2008, 06:53   #29
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Ow. The winch on my trailer is knackered too but as the boat won't even think about moving in either direction on the trailer in less than about 4 feet of water at the stern, it doesn't really matter - the trailer is a PITA but has some default safety benefits!
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Old 24 February 2008, 11:49   #30
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Some useful info. I came across while searching for a new winch.
http://www.dutton-lainson.com/hwsg.php
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