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Old 17 October 2005, 14:53   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eupa
What's reliability like on your honda

Cant beat it. First pull and off you go. Like everything they do - its invarably first class- but you pay the price. Its like SONY-they dont have bad products.
If only Rover hadnt done the dirty on Honda??? ( come on Codders!)
Padlocks ?what's that ? they dont knick things where I live. Did you know that in Toronto very few people lock their houses??

Jonathan
I completely disagree. I've had 2 Honda gennies and they have both failed. If you're ever this way, I'll give you both of them. You'll need to sort the ignition system on one and fit a new alternator to the other. Honda don't want to know for spare parts, they just want to sell me another. The factory wont even entertain speaking to you. I had a Honda car, went very well but rusted all over the place, even the roof! I've also got a wee Honda outboard. It's a little bu**er. Kicks back when trying to start it and just about takes the end of your fingers off.

On the other hand, I've got Briggs & Stratton machinery which is 30 years old and it's fine. My Stihl equipment just goes on and on. My main genny uses a cheepo Tecumseh motor, it's already outlasted the Honda stuff. My wee genny is a cheepo B&Q unit. It's light, neat and quiet but it doesn't start cleanly and it's 2 stroke and particularly smelly when running.

I also have a 2 Sony tv's and a Sony camera. All of them have been repaired.
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Old 17 October 2005, 15:45   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
I completely disagree. I've had 2 Honda gennies and they have both failed. If you're ever this way, I'll give you both of them. You'll need to sort the ignition system on one and fit a new alternator to the other. Honda don't want to know for spare parts, they just want to sell me another. The factory wont even entertain speaking to you. I had a Honda car, went very well but rusted all over the place, even the roof! I've also got a wee Honda outboard. It's a little bu**er. Kicks back when trying to start it and just about takes the end of your fingers off.

On the other hand, I've got Briggs & Stratton machinery which is 30 years old and it's fine. My Stihl equipment just goes on and on. My main genny uses a cheepo Tecumseh motor, it's already outlasted the Honda stuff. My wee genny is a cheepo B&Q unit. It's light, neat and quiet but it doesn't start cleanly and it's 2 stroke and particularly smelly when running.

I also have a 2 Sony tv's and a Sony camera. All of them have been repaired.









Just goes to show you . it takes all sorts to make a world. ..Perhaps JW its the way you treat machinery?????????? --

Jonathan
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Old 17 October 2005, 16:40   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codprawn
http://www.oxprod.com/

To see the specs

http://www.mandp.co.uk/home.aspx

They only seems to do the chains WITH padlocks now - the cheapest is about 10 but I don't think it's approved - the cheapest approved one they do is about
20 - still not bad!!!

I use them quite a bit - have 2 for my Landrover - 1 around the steering wheel/pedals and the other through the bumper around a lampost or similar!!!

They serve 3 different purposes - 1 as an anti theft measure - 2 as a message to say you are a bit nuts - 3 if they don't get the first 2!!!!

Will use them on my trailer as well as the silly wheel clamp I had to buy for the insurance - would rather the chain through a lampost any day!!!

As a TEST I used a massive Record bolt cropper on the chain - oneof the biggest they do - laid one handle down on the floor so all the leverage I could get - barely marked the chain!!! No way would you get that sort of leverage in real conditions!!!
ok as codders clearly failed to come up with the goods to back up his earlier claim of 10 for 1.5m chains that are secure. i had said insurance approved chains are best but expensive and he said you can get them for 10.

Does anyone know of where you can buy lightweight security hardened, insurance approved chain or cable by the meter, prefer plastic covered, ie so could buy a 3 m length etc, i think this would help a lot of folks on here and give options for better security

as for cutting thru items i would use a petrol cutter as those babys go thru stuff like you would not believe, would be noisey but would be quick.
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Old 17 October 2005, 18:29   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eupa
..Perhaps JW its the way you treat machinery?????????? --
Obviously it is. I look after it well.
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Old 17 October 2005, 19:26   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon

as for cutting thru items i would use a petrol cutter as those babys go thru stuff like you would not believe, would be noisey but would be quick.
You'd last about ten seconds as a professional thief.

Let me explain something here. If a thief is going out to steal something with substantial value such as a RIB, they don't want to be detected in the act at all. If they ARE heard then they're screwed and all they can do is get away from the scene and look innocent.
Thieves know that once they are detected they arent getting what they originally were after-unless its something petty like items from a locker or your stereo.



If you really want to make sure a thief can't get your boat from a marina berth, lock a chain around your prop and lower unit then lock the other end to your bow eye-with the chain underwater-and put a grapnel in the middle on a length of rope or chain so if they try and tow it out it'll foul the pontoon mooring chains.
You'll then have nowhere bow or stern for a thief to get good leverage to use boltcrops or a disc cutter and they aren't going anywhere with a chain around the prop. Of course, they COULD cut it with an oxy-acetylene porta-pak if they could swim and use the torch...but they'd have to be either very brave or very stupid to do that-and there's always an easier target than something mechanically immobilised.

Sound like a lot of hassle? Yep-but all you have to do is make it hard enough for them that they move on to someone else's boat.
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Old 17 October 2005, 22:09   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon
ok as codders clearly failed to come up with the goods to back up his earlier claim of 10 for 1.5m chains that are secure. i had said insurance approved chains are best but expensive and he said you can get them for 10.

Does anyone know of where you can buy lightweight security hardened, insurance approved chain or cable by the meter, prefer plastic covered, ie so could buy a 3 m length etc, i think this would help a lot of folks on here and give options for better security

as for cutting thru items i would use a petrol cutter as those babys go thru stuff like you would not believe, would be noisey but would be quick.
This is SO pathetic - how much do you think a decent padlock costs??? 20 less padlock surely = about 10????

However as you ARE being so pathetic how about this???

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Oxford-Securit...QQcmdZViewItem

Better chain than the other one I mentioned - this bloke sells it WITHOUT a padlock for 9.95!!!

Good deal actually about to order myself - he's got good feedback!!!
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Old 18 October 2005, 03:43   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
If you really want to make sure a thief can't get your boat from a marina berth, lock a chain around your prop and lower unit then lock the other end to your bow eye-with the chain underwater-and put a grapnel in the middle on a length of rope or chain so if they try and tow it out it'll foul the pontoon mooring chains.
Generally the bow eye can be quite simply dropped out from the inside with a nice quiet spanner or wrench... possibly not one to rely upon.

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Old 18 October 2005, 05:05   #88
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JUST INSURE THE F'NG THING!!! This is becoming the Paranoia-net forum. I for one don't want to look the biggest twat in the marina with half a tonne of ironmongery hanging off my boat! Stoll on!
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Old 18 October 2005, 15:00   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
You'd last about ten seconds as a professional thief.

Let me explain something here. If a thief is going out to steal something with substantial value such as a RIB, they don't want to be detected in the act at all. If they ARE heard then they're screwed and all they can do is get away from the scene and look innocent.
Thieves know that once they are detected they arent getting what they originally were after-unless its something petty like items from a locker or your stereo.



If you really want to make sure a thief can't get your boat from a marina berth, lock a chain around your prop and lower unit then lock the other end to your bow eye-with the chain underwater-and put a grapnel in the middle on a length of rope or chain so if they try and tow it out it'll foul the pontoon mooring chains.
You'll then have nowhere bow or stern for a thief to get good leverage to use boltcrops or a disc cutter and they aren't going anywhere with a chain around the prop. Of course, they COULD cut it with an oxy-acetylene porta-pak if they could swim and use the torch...but they'd have to be either very brave or very stupid to do that-and there's always an easier target than something mechanically immobilised.

Sound like a lot of hassle? Yep-but all you have to do is make it hard enough for them that they move on to someone else's boat.
arrr fab

that clears me as a thief and shows i am as honest as the driven snow, yes anything that makes their life more difficut is the way to go

cheers
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Old 18 October 2005, 15:02   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codprawn
This is SO pathetic - how much do you think a decent padlock costs??? 20 less padlock surely = about 10????

However as you ARE being so pathetic how about this???

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Oxford-Securit...QQcmdZViewItem

Better chain than the other one I mentioned - this bloke sells it WITHOUT a padlock for 9.95!!!

Good deal actually about to order myself - he's got good feedback!!!
well done codders...nice one

i am off in the garage now to test various chains ulocks and padlocks for their security strength as i have a bit of spare time this evening...wish me luck!
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