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Old 26 August 2009, 21:50   #21
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I would guess thats about 120 L
So wrong............ not even in the ball park.
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Old 26 August 2009, 21:53   #22
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60 litres.

And don't forget to work out how to get a fill pipe to it and a breather.
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Old 26 August 2009, 21:55   #23
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60ish
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Old 26 August 2009, 21:56   #24
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60 litres.

And don't forget to work out how to get a fill pipe to it and a breather.
oh I have been working this out about the pipe work fear not....

boat was totally level (not that it would be on the water) and the volume of water was

drum role please

45L or better known as sod all.

Either I need to make said tank longer or go to plan 'B'

any one got a good plan 'B' I could use?
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Old 26 August 2009, 22:02   #25
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Get a 6 meter searider?
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Old 27 August 2009, 05:52   #26
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Plan B:

Do what your doing now but build it under the console, ie the tank is still in the hull but if you need the extra capacity you can build it up a little under the console.
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Old 27 August 2009, 12:49   #27
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45L or better known as sod all.
Well, it's the equivalent of 2 portable tanks so worth having. Easy to do so no loss if you don't use it.
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Old 29 August 2009, 08:25   #28
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My 2 pence's worth .............

Wrong place - you will have a heavy bow when full, then getting lighter as you use fuel - Always place fuel tanks as near to the centre of gravity as possible, they are useful for trying out changing the balance of a boat though!

We only fit GRP tanks to diesel boats - our suppliers will not approve any material for making fuel tanks for petrol, and as our boats have to be CE marked we could not fit them, there are also other rules that don't apply here.

Hope that helps!
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When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 29 August 2009, 08:28   #29
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My 2 pence's worth .............

Wrong place - you will have a heavy bow when full, then getting lighter as you use fuel - Always place fuel tanks as near to the centre of gravity as possible, they are useful for trying out changing the balance of a boat though!

We only fit GRP tanks to diesel boats - our suppliers will not approve any material for making fuel tanks for petrol, and as our boats have to be CE marked we could not fit them, there are also other rules that don't apply here.

Hope that helps!
Can I ask a question of ya Cookee? Fuel tank near to the centre of gravity, would you have it placed long ways on the boat or across the beam?
Cheers mate
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Old 29 August 2009, 08:34   #30
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Can I ask a question of ya Cookee? Fuel tank near to the centre of gravity, would you have it placed long ways on the boat or across the beam?
Cheers mate
Wherever it fits!

The idea would be to keep it as low as possible as well, so to get the volume and keep it low fitting it lengthways with baffles would be the best solution so long as it is positioned around the C of G.
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When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 29 August 2009, 08:46   #31
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My 2 pence's worth .............

Wrong place - you will have a heavy bow when full, then getting lighter as you use fuel - Always place fuel tanks as near to the centre of gravity as possible, they are useful for trying out changing the balance of a boat though!.
so you recon would be better to build it in below the seats then?


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We only fit GRP tanks to diesel boats - our suppliers will not approve any material for making fuel tanks for petrol, and as our boats have to be CE marked we could not fit them, there are also other rules that don't apply here.
good job I am not going for CE ticket then eh there is lots of old yank boats with glassfiber tanks they only suffer now due to the "new" fuel additives




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Hope that helps!
eh no, more a spanner into my cunning plan....
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Old 29 August 2009, 09:23   #32
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so you recon would be better to build it in below the seats then?


good job I am not going for CE ticket then eh there is lots of old yank boats with glassfiber tanks they only suffer now due to the "new" fuel additives




eh no, more a spanner into my cunning plan....
Yes

If you want a future proof fuel tank I don't believe fibreglass is the way to go!

Sorry!
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When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 29 August 2009, 09:46   #33
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Wherever it fits!

The idea would be to keep it as low as possible as well, so to get the volume and keep it low fitting it lengthways with baffles would be the best solution so long as it is positioned around the C of G.
What about a long tank with no baffles ? Just need to tap into your experience mate.

MDT, sorry about the hijack.
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Old 29 August 2009, 14:21   #34
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What about the free surface effect on your stability when the tank becomes slack?
The tank wont be very deep but it will have a significant free surface area when slack unless it is baffled effectively both longitudinally & athwartships.
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Old 01 September 2009, 12:48   #35
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What about a long tank with no baffles ? Just need to tap into your experience mate.

MDT, sorry about the hijack.
They need baffles, especially if it's a long tank!
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Old 01 September 2009, 12:53   #36
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They need baffles, especially if it's a long tank!
You'd think for the price they sell plastimo and tek tanks for they would have baffles wouldn't you! And with only a small deck plate for access, adding them later is impossible.
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Old 04 September 2009, 21:34   #37
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well the boys at CFS say that vinylester resin is resist chemical attack, and shall be fine for a fuel tank.

so looks like I will bash on and build a tank under the deck, just a bit more towards the middel and see how it goes.
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Old 04 September 2009, 21:39   #38
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well the boys at CFS say that vinylester resin is resist chemical attack, and shall be fine for a fuel tank.

so looks like I will bash on and build a tank under the deck, just a bit more towards the middel and see how it goes.
Niceone, keep us updated
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