Bow Cleat for Ribeye

stuartbull2 · 11 February 2007, 19:38

Any advice please?
I'm preparing my PVC Ribeye 450 for the new season and want to bond a bow cleat to the bow (surprisingly)Have found suitable part on IBS website (tho not sure yet which of two they offer will suffice)
3 questions
1) One part or two part adhesive,what are relative merits of both?
2) Bond to bow when deflated and hope to be able to present the area of the tube flat and on a level surface so as to apply pressure when bonding.or bond inflated when bow is in operational shape but not able to apply pressure.
3) any other ideas as to suitable parts/methodology to achieve a cleat on the bow for my annchor warp.

Ribey 450 open tender, jockey console,yamaha 50 four stroke.My little toy and great fun, much more practical that the seedoo jetski I ran for a couple of years up to last season.

matt h · 11 February 2007, 20:01

fantastic looking boat!!

matt h · 11 February 2007, 20:03

what about taking to Henshaws in Wincanton, and get Chris hornidge (md)to look at it, he will probally do it there and then for you, at least it will be done properly with the right adhesive, !!

AndrewH · 11 February 2007, 21:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt h

what about taking to Henshaws in Wincanton,

Why not take it down to Dartmouth - even closer to you than Henshaws. Then you can either get Ribeye themselves to do it for you, or talk to Paul Tilley at TIDEL. Either way Matt's comment

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt h

at least it will be done properly with the right adhesive, !!

is valid. From my experience with Paul he'll charge you a fair rate for excellent workmanship.

Andrew.

stuartbull2 · 12 February 2007, 07:38

Thanks Guys,for the quick reply,I will certainly give Paul a ring ,however being a bit of a DIYer and an engineer to boot I may well have a go myself (if financially advantageous)

Any comments on the method please?
STUART

Tim M · 12 February 2007, 09:04

2 part glue as its much stronger.

I have limited experiance of gluing things onto tubes. In the past I've always done it with the tube pumped up nice and hard then used straps/weights/take to hold the item down til the glue has set. You might be better off waiting for the weather to warm up unless you have a garage you can work in as doing it in the cold and wet isn't idea.

stuartbull2 · 12 February 2007, 09:33

Thanks for that Tim
OK so its 2 part then,yep I have a garage I can warm up a litttle but will wait until later next month to do it for the reason you mention.
Still a bit to do yet,put the grarbox back on the Yammy (having replaced water pump impeller) put a couple of hatches in the front of console to enable access to electrics and controls.and finish of mainteneane to the trailer. That should keep me busy until then.

BTW and for general info to any one thinking about wheel bearings!. have previously fitted Bearing Savers to my wheel hubs having gone thro a number of sets of bearings (mainly due I believe to the amount of time the trailer can be in the water when I launch/recover as I tend to do it alone) These seem to be great,used them for a few launches last season and NO water entered the bearings,have popped a little grease in them once over the winter to re-presurise and seem fine so far.

wavecrosschris · 12 February 2007, 09:56

Looks great in your pic - Big-up the 4m+ Ribeye's!!!

great RIB's!

had mine since June and love it.

Can't offer any advice on sticking stuff to the tubes I'm afraid but I have stuck quite a lot to the hull - trim tabs, a-frames backrests etc
here's mine...

stuartbull2 · 12 February 2007, 15:42

Yo wavecrosschriss I see you
Great looking rib yes us ribeyers need to big up the make

Where did you source your backrest,was it from Ribeye?
I have drawn my own and had some quotes best is from a local ss fabricator for around £130 plus vat - may go for it when I have the other projects completed.
btw I see you have a bowcleat/roller ,is that also a Ribeye fit as not standard on my model?

Regards

Stuart

jyasaki · 12 February 2007, 16:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by stuartbull2

BTW and for general info to any one thinking about wheel bearings!. have previously fitted Bearing Savers to my wheel hubs having gone thro a number of sets of bearings (mainly due I believe to the amount of time the trailer can be in the water when I launch/recover as I tend to do it alone) These seem to be great,used them for a few launches last season and NO water entered the bearings,have popped a little grease in them once over the winter to re-presurise and seem fine so far.

The bearing savers purpose is to create something of a reservoir for contracting grease. You are *not* trying to pressurize the grease in the bearings.

General tips: 1) Do not pump the bearing savers completely full. Near-full is about perfect. Any more and you risk inverting the rear grease seal, which will cause leaks. 2) Allow your hubs to cool for at least 15 minutes or so after you trailer to the ramp. Dunking warm bearings will cause a lot of grease contraction, which is what sucks water into the bearings (discounting the bearings and seals that are falling apart from lack of maintenance.) 3) Make sure your bearings are adjusted properly. Bearings that are too tight will run hot, causing similar problems to #2 above.

Bearings that are in good shape should be able to be dunkable for quite a while longer than it takes to launch a boat, without water ingress.

jky

wavecrosschris · 12 February 2007, 16:51

Hey Stuart - Yeah, the backrest is made by Ribeye it's on their parts list but they have just wacked up the prices quite a bit - I bought mine in July as they were just changing and paid about £220 including courier - I think it's about 260 now +postage!!

If I were you i'd get your s/s fab to get one made up - you'll probably save 100quid and won't really see the difference - PM me your email address and I will send you some pics so you can do a copy if you like!

The bow roller was standard on mine and for some reason - probably to save weight and money ribeye have removed it along with the splashwell. The bowroller moulding is the same size i think as the one that they use on the playtime 500 - you should be able to get one from Ribeye - give Carol or John wood at Dartmouth a call - they are very helpful!

It is actually very useful - so easy to moor up with and obviously to anchor. I'm not sure how much ribeye would charge for one though and its probably a special part they'd have to order from S.A.

Some history on them: The current Tender 400/450 that ribeye make was based on a hull made by prestige ribs - When ribeye bought the prestige S.A plant they badged them up as the 'Wavecross' range then for a short period I think they were even classed as a Playtime before becoming the open tender. - (not a lot of people know that!! lol)

I've done quite a few alterations to mine so drop me a line if you want any info...

Cheers

Chris

Quote:

Originally Posted by stuartbull2

Yo wavecrosschriss I see you
Great looking rib yes us ribeyers need to big up the make

Where did you source your backrest,was it from Ribeye?
I have drawn my own and had some quotes best is from a local ss fabricator for around £130 plus vat - may go for it when I have the other projects completed.
btw I see you have a bowcleat/roller ,is that also a Ribeye fit as not standard on my model?

Regards

Stuart

wavecrosschris · 12 February 2007, 17:43

Prob easier if i post them, then you can all see what i've been busy all winter doing

(the garage has been full of blood and swearing - stainless screws snap of so easily in fiberglass!

One of these pics shows the roller on the bow - looks pretty easy to fit to me as long as you're careful with adhesives!

Another shows the tabs - Mine is hard to keep level with two on the console out at sea so i've stuck plastimo tabs on the back to try and counteract the weight - making someone go in the bow is uncomfortable unless its smooth.

Have also built in under the console a 43L tank - should see about 90/100mile range - I hope.

Backrest fits via 4 M10 bolts - have also added some handles to the side as mates found they didn't want to put their arms round me and arms around the back was a bit hard with the motion of the boat bouncing around.

yoyo · 12 February 2007, 18:16

Chris,

Please post a close-up pic of your nav lighting mast. I feel a project coming on.

Inde boy · 12 February 2007, 18:35

Hey YoYo

Do you ever give up or is your mind in permenant RIB mode

LMAO

Inde Boy

wavecrosschris · 12 February 2007, 18:35

hi yoyo

Yeah I quite enjoyed doing this, I took all the measurements myself, angles etc - I wanted something that looked a bit beefy. Ribeye had stopped making the proper arch that fitted my boat so I had to get this made.

It's made out of 3 inch marine grade s/s - i was worried about the weight before i picked it up, but you can with your little finger suprisingly!

I had it made by a fabricators in chichester marina - it took less than a week and they did a great job from my drawings - it fitted with 5mm to spair either side of the splashwell. - and cost me nearly 200quid less than what ribeye charge for theirs - with nav lights.

The only problem we came across was due to the size of the tube and the restrictions of the angle bending machine, meant that this is actually made out of 9 seperate peices of tube welded together and polished out!

cheers

chris

Quote:

Originally Posted by yoyo

Chris,

Please post a close-up pic of your nav lighting mast. I feel a project coming on.

yoyo · 12 February 2007, 19:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inde boy

Hey YoYo

Do you ever give up or is your mind in permenant RIB mode

LMAO

Inde Boy

As you know im just back from the first launch of my new rib and If I dont do "somut" on the boat, the wife will find me "somut" to do around the house.

yoyo · 12 February 2007, 19:17

Pic of first launch earlier today at Caernarfon.

The Grocer · 12 February 2007, 22:31

At the risk of sounding a bit too keen, I'd suggest you get a tape measure out and check the vertical separation of your lights - it should be at least one metre, iirc; and I'm not convinced about that bi-colour light - mainly because you'll be blocking it from the front!

One of the things I'm having done to Cowal is to raise the all-round white up a metre (on a GRP pole), and then having the green and red nav lights shifted up the A-frame - I like the idea of MFVs and yotties seeing me from afar

Doubtless a professional will be along shortly...

stuartbull2 · 13 February 2007, 06:23

Hi Wavecrosschris
Pics are great ,youv'e certainly been busy,looking good.
The pics of the bow roller have convinced me that is the way to go-next project.
The backrest (Ribeye) is almost identical to the one I have designed including the fittings must get that underway as well.
I see you have a 60 yammy on yours,I believe my hull is only rated to 50 hp did they change at some time?,my hull is circa 2005.
I can see why you would need the "elevators" on the transom,the engine is reasonably heavy and with 2 people on the seat whay hay .Being a sad person I am usually out there on my own so dont find it a problem.(hence the reason for carrying a VHF and mobile along with various pieces of safety equipment)

Your fuel tank installation looks neat,(I did a similar thing to a 16ft Shakespeare I once had ) but in my case I value the storage space under the seat.

How do you find access to the electrics and controls on the console?,I guess like me you have had to unbolt the console and lay it over to get access ,I am not a contortionist. Consequently I have sourced two (200mm) round hatches and am about to start cutting fibreglass to mount them in front thus enabling me to get my hands in (I had a fire behind the dash on my previously mentioned Shakespeare!!) so I'm a bit paranoid.May not look great but I can cope with that.
Cheers

Stuart

wavecrosschris · 13 February 2007, 08:01

hmm, interesting point about the distance between the colours and the running light - I hadn't read anything about the distance between when I designed it.

- although obviously makes sense the further apart the less the lights will merge - I did realise that. The bi-colour actually works out about right - and when you consider everything in a 4m rib is above you (except the v.very far away) I don't think it should disable it much. but...

To be honest these lights are more for pose value than purpose which sounds stupid, but to be honest it's better to have some sort lighting if I get stuck out in the dark than none (I don't have any serious intentions or interest in ribbing in the dark in a boat this size!! - just day use). besides all you really need is an all-round white - I have a separate stern so at least i'm visible all round and the white is well clear above head height. Maybe I should have just put on a single white at the top of the mast. and left off the bi's.

Stuart, the tank does take up a lot of room from the console obviously, but I can still store two oars, a large pump and one of those large orange canisters which has everything I need in it (fire ex(s), tool kit, first aid kit, spares etc and also an offshore flare pack.

It does disable quick access to the back of the dash I admit (although I too have just bought a 200mm inspection hatch to install in the front of the console! - I have also added a locker with a door into the front of the console as there is nowhere to put spare killcords, vhf, keys etc in a rush.

I can still easily get to the battery though for a jump or charge which was essential obviously! To access the electrics you have to undo the filler pipe and the tiedowns and the tank drops back. When i wired up the electrics in the console I squeezed upside down into the console. It was painful and I ached for days after!

Re the engine hp rating - Ribeye did a lot of playing around with the badging on their ribs until about 2004. Mine is rated 60 believe it or not, and I would admit it is slightly overpowered. But it's only overpowered if you use it carelessly! - it's great to have the extra power there - I think for this size boat a 50 is about right. (these are also quite heavy 4m ribs!)