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Old 30 April 2008, 18:00   #11
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Consoles breaking loose almost always cause of pretty serious injuries. Is there any way you could mechanically fasten it down on the inside? Might need to install an access port.
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Old 30 April 2008, 18:33   #12
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I have an existing flange round the console and have good access inside. You can see the flange in the pic. Even if I bonded it in I would leave the flange front and rear for screw fixing.
My query is how do I actually glass it to the deck on the inside, the actual method and materials bearing min mind I know next to nothing about bonding and glassing.....
Hopefully you can see what the issue is. The hull is coming down at an angle and meeting the deck. Putting long screws into the flange is very close to where the hull is going past underneath due to the angles at the join.
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Old 01 May 2008, 00:09   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceB View Post
I have an existing flange round the console and have good access inside. You can see the flange in the pic. Even if I bonded it in I would leave the flange front and rear for screw fixing.
My query is how do I actually glass it to the deck on the inside, the actual method and materials bearing min mind I know next to nothing about bonding and glassing.....
Hopefully you can see what the issue is. The hull is coming down at an angle and meeting the deck. Putting long screws into the flange is very close to where the hull is going past underneath due to the angles at the join.
Prep the area, sikaflex the flange all around +screw it front and back, then glass it all around on the inside
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Old 04 May 2008, 04:27   #14
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For sure, you have a lot of heigth free between deck sides and hull - seing your picture, I would say at least 5cm.

Simply check by drilling a small hole (3mm) through one side where you want to install the console : you will then know exactly how deep you can drill safely.
And if you drill slowly and check the progression, you will know how your deck is made (top GRP thickness, wood thickness, underside GRP ... free space ... hull if your drill is long enough)

But if you just fix with Sikaflex, it will be more than enough, just take care to grind the gelcoat where you want to glue. And add one small screw in each angle while it cures.
Sika bonding is stronger than GRP bonding, and much more than screwing.

If you wanted to keep the possibility of removing the console - who knows ?...- just add a thin steel wire into the bonding, to help cutting it ! Without it, you break.
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Old 04 May 2008, 05:26   #15
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The console is a lot closer to the hull at the front of the console. The problem is only the first three screws at the front on each side.
After talking to Humber it seems that as long as I sikaflex it in and put all the remaining screws in properly that it will be fine.
I may glass the sides in anyway as a belts and braces job but it seems the worrying is for nothing.........
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Old 04 May 2008, 09:46   #16
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If it was me then i would sand the flange and approx 2" up the product. Pur the console in the place that you want it to be. Mark around it inside and out and drill the flange (if it has one) where possible. Move the console away from the area and apply the sika or bonding paste (in our case) and then move the console back in postion and screw it down. Smooth out any excess bonding paste and lt cure. Then glass the inside from the console onto the floor (approx 3" on either) and glass the flange and up the 2" all the way round. Job done.....

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Old 04 May 2008, 10:01   #17
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Some of these problems are caused by specifying equipment that isn't normally fitted to Destroyer hulls. The console and underfloor trunk being the two main additions.
I should be able to work around the console fitting by screwing down and glassing the inside of the console in. I don't want to glass the outside as you suggest for two reasons-
I want the edge of the flange as a raised part as I am fitting Treadmaster decking and this is the normal place I can make a smooth join and I am not that sure the Glassing will be as neat as yours!
On the inside I don't mind it being rough, nobody bar me will see it!
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Old 04 May 2008, 10:11   #18
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Why not taper the flange with a sander. If your edges on the finished glass are not neat, then sand them. Even i have to use a sander some times...

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Old 11 May 2008, 18:13   #19
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What materials do I need to glass in the console? Fastglas kits are the limit of my knowledge about glassfibre........
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Old 12 May 2008, 05:32   #20
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Hi,
i prefer screwing and bonding.
For security i would drill a 5mm hole in every corner of the console and a 3,5mm to the bottom . Then fix it and tape the console with a overstand of 5mm . Also do to the bottom. Then disassemble again , clean it with acetone , give a line or two to the connection area of sikaflex 291. Srew the console down with 4 -4,8mm x22 screws lightly to the floor . Take some tool like a spoon and make a clean , round flange . Then take the tape away. Don`t take too long screws, because the bottom is about 20mm thick and you will get through all and the moisture will get to the wood from inside.
Dont take nitro -thinner or white spirit for cleaning. It will last an oily surface and the Sikaflex will not bond .

Greetings Mike
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