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Old 03 November 2006, 18:12   #21
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I like the 2 patch idea .
My boat has wear patches fitted from new in that area .

Steven I wondered, after seeing a pic of your boat on a trailer when you first got it, had it sat in some contaminated water / oil or petrol etc , that could have rotted the fabric .

As for superglue its not water proof so don't use it if the boat is kept moored , surely sikaflex is the better bet ?
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Old 04 November 2006, 06:55   #22
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my new double jockey seat arrived from Humber today (very nicely made and finished too, I have to say)
Stephen, make sure you send Humber a nice thank you letter for the Jockey seat - beginning with the opening line "without prejudice".
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Old 04 November 2006, 07:34   #23
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Stephen, make sure you send Humber a nice thank you letter for the Jockey seat - beginning with the opening line "without prejudice".
Have to say the build quality of the jockey seat is very good and sensibly designed, nice sturdy grab handle on the back rail and a securely fitted side-hinged seat so you can't lose the seat when nobody is sitting in it! Not cheap, but then none of them were. But on balance I would rather have good tubes and a sh** jockey seat
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Old 04 November 2006, 10:25   #24
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First patch on and no Superglue Gel to be found anywhere so it looks like being Sikaflex. I guess I should scuff up the surface with sandpaper before putting a bead on, same as using the normal glue?
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Old 04 November 2006, 11:40   #25
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First patch on and no Superglue Gel to be found anywhere so it looks like being Sikaflex. I guess I should scuff up the surface with sandpaper before putting a bead on, same as using the normal glue?
think so, top tip from Rogue Wave, use a wet finger to smooth out the sikaflex.

Pete
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Old 04 November 2006, 13:23   #26
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think so, top tip from Rogue Wave, use a wet finger to smooth out the sikaflex.

Pete
Spit works better than plain water.

Stephen, why don't you feather out the edge of the patch by sanding it away from the bottom right through to the orange hypalon. It will give you a similar effect to a patch on a car inner tube. It'll save you buggering about with glue fillets and sikaflex.
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Old 04 November 2006, 14:40   #27
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Stephen, why don't you feather out the edge of the patch by sanding it away from the bottom right through to the orange hypalon. It will give you a similar effect to a patch on a car inner tube. It'll save you buggering about with glue fillets and sikaflex.
Good idea, I'll try that on the patch and see what happens, ta

If I F it up I'll go back to the Sikaflex

First patch seems to have stuck to the exposed fabric so will leave it till at least tomorrow evening (tin says 48hrs cure time) and see what happens when I pump it up, I think the second patch would be easier to put on with the tube inflated. Spent the rest of the day realising just how much hassle it is disconnecting EVERYTHING from the console to re-route through a new double jockey seat so it doesn't get stomped on, and wondering how you fit a 2 inch plug through a 1 inch hole that is so deep inside the console you can barely see it, or how the hell you are supposed to get both arms in to above the elbow through a 6x6" hatch in the front of the console to disconnect the steering cable......

Oh boats are SUCH fun
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Old 05 November 2006, 13:45   #28
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Now bodged

Haven't done the Sikaflex yet (will wait till the glue has cured for a couple of days) but it didn't go all that well trying to make a 2 dimensional sheet of non flexible fabric form a shape in 3 dimensions doesn't work.... so I have ended up with a few ripples in the outer patch on the trailing edge where it curves around the cone end (I deliberately stuck the leading edge down first and worked back to try and get the best bond on the leading edge)

Oh well, nothing to lose, will just have to wait and see what happens..... the fact this didn't go too well hasn't filled me with confidence for changing tube ends though
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Old 05 November 2006, 16:15   #29
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Stephen,

I don't want to pour water on your fire and I don't have a lot of experience of repairing tubes but I have some.

I must admit as good as that repair looks I've a feeling that as it is, it will fail on your first trip.

I feel this because I've seen repairs that look like that fail. The main trouble you have is that the conditions you are working in are less than perfect. You really need to do it in warm and dry conditions. Have you done that ? Then you need to make sure that the water at speed isn't going to lift that patch up. I've a feeling your patch will get lifted on its first trip.

Hopefully Paul Tilley can give you enough pointers to get you sorted, more than I can, but at the moment I think you've done well to get it looking like a RIB but you've got a long way to go yet.

Regards Nick R.
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Old 05 November 2006, 22:26   #30
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Nick, I have much the same feeling and already am beginning to wish I'd took seasonal advantage and turned the whole damned thing into a bonfire tonight.

Warm and dry - only as in working outside on a sunny day in ambient of about +12*C today I guess, maybe a little warmer. Didn't look at the thermometer but must have been about that. It's the best I can do.

I don't have access to anywhere indoors and heated that is big enough to take the boat, the only places I might be able to use are damp and unheated which would be worse than working outside, so its a case of choosing the best day. Bear in mind the previous patch did work OK, it just wasn't glued to anything worth gluing a patch to but it didn't fail due to a bonding problem because the tube went with it!

The leading edge of the seam looks much better because it is that side I was concentrating on getting right, the trailing edge looks crap because you can't flex something that will only flex through 2 dimensions, through 3 dimensions. That, I assume, is why the cone shape is formed out of 3 bits of fabric instead of one, but a patch made of 3 bits of fabric wasn't going to get me anywhere. I thought that might happen before I started.

I still hate inflatable boats and if it goes wrong the first time out I imagine I'll be saving the cost of cone ends and selling it as-is for whatever money I can get because at that point I will finally be at the end of my tether. There are other ways to have fun that are less hassle, I could run a small aeroplane for less than £300 an hour (the approx cost of buying and rigging up this stupid thing divided by the number of hours use I have had out of it, not including fuel) and I know which I'd rather have! Though I will probably go back to Land Rovers and bikes, the difference will be that I'll no longer look enviously at boats on the water on a fine day and think "lucky bugger, wish I had one of those".......................................still I haven't made an expensive mistake for quite a number of years now so I suppose its overdue!

The plus side is I'm sooo glad I didn't waste three times as much on buying a new one, because then I'd be off to shoot myself!
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