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Old 03 November 2006, 08:15   #11
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stephen put the yellow patch on first making sure you prime the delaminated area properly when that has cured inflate the tube and put the blue patch on then grind down the leading edge of the blue patch and either sikaflex or glue over the leading edge ,not pretty but should do the job .
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Old 03 November 2006, 11:35   #12
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Originally Posted by Biggles View Post
Stephen,
To stop the water working its way under the patch and lifting it, I've just seen what water can do with large patches put on a tube on my mates RIBCRAFT, My tip is to run a ridge of Super Glue Gel along the front of the ridge just in front of the repair. It does work.
Rather than superglue, (cyanoacrylate, which dries fairly brittle), try using a urethane based adhesive (Aquaseal, Sikaflex, any of those.) They stay pliable, and, assuming good surface prep, stick really well.

jky
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Old 03 November 2006, 11:55   #13
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Jyasaki,

At the risk of starting an arguement. This is a tip I pulled off this forum last year. I tried it myself on my Old searider and it worked 100 % right up until I sold the boat. Best bit is its a lot more inconspicuos than Silkaflex.

Either way, yours or mine, I hope one of them works for Stephen and gets him out of the cack.
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Old 03 November 2006, 14:05   #14
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No offense taken, and it's more of a whatever works kind of thing. Didn't mean to step on your toes, either.

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Old 03 November 2006, 14:28   #15
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Thanks for the suggestions I'll have a fresh tube of Sikaflex open anyway because my new double jockey seat arrived from Humber today (very nicely made and finished too, I have to say) so I'll be sticking that to the floor in the blunt end once the tube has been bodged.

What it looks like doesn't matter on this occasion because its going to be under the water when the boat is in the water, and that whole bit of tube will meet the wrong end of a large cutting tool when I get the new tube ends from Paul Tilley anyway, so it'll be gone for good then! I'll be cutting them off an inch or two ahead of the forward-most seam to get rid of any chance of more problems related to the original seams, which seem (pardon the pun) to be the weak point in this boat.

The really annoying thing in all this is that I still think if the original design had incorporated wear patches from when it was built, the tube would have been so much stiffer and none of this would have even started.....

Moral of the story: go and look at your boat and if it doesn't have wear patches reinforcing the area that gets battered by the water at speed, FIT THEM NOW. You do not want this aggravation.... trust me you do not.
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Old 03 November 2006, 14:43   #16
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Stephen,

Your right. My mates Searider developed this problem and it was then I decided to fit some wear patches. Although not perfect they took the brunt of any wear so after a day with the odd bit coming loose I could reglue the wear patch and not have to worry about the more difficult, if not impossible to repair, cone join.

The super glue trick worked a treat in keeping the wear patch on.

As you have suggested you don't want this problem. I personally would fit the wear patch and do the super glue trick to anyone that has older tubes.

Best of luck,

Nick R.
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Old 03 November 2006, 15:12   #17
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Nick do you actually put the bead of glue along the edge of the patch to take off the "sharp edge" or is the idea to put it a mill or two ahead of it to deflect the water flow up over the leading edge of the patch? Got any pics of what you did/how big the bead was etc?

cheers

Stephen
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Old 03 November 2006, 15:41   #18
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Stephen,

I don't have the boat anymore. But what I did was put the bead of glue just in front of the patch. Probably no more than .5 of a mm. I don't suppose it would hurt if you ran the glue along the seam. It must be Super glue Gel not the ordinary stuff.
Its just acting like a deflector to take away the force of that water at 50 mph etc. Trust me it does work and it works well. Just make the patch is really smooth where it joins the tube. I suppose you really need to make sure that the glue at all points protects the patch seam.
The height/size of the bead was the same height as the patch. Its so simple everyone should do it. It costs about £2 to avoid hundreds of pounds future problems.
Its something I'm going to do soon on my new boat.
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Old 03 November 2006, 16:19   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggles View Post
To stop the water working its way under the patch and lifting it, I've just seen what water can do with large patches put on a tube on my mates RIBCRAFT, My tip is to run a ridge of Super Glue Gel along the front of the ridge just in front of the repair. It does work.
Along the same lines, I had a heavy patch added to the underside of my tube in about the same place. To minimize the resistance, the techie also put a very light patch over the lead edge of the heavy patch. That was three years ago, and there is no sign of it letting go...

Also, in answer to your original question, my belief is that these adhesives stick rubber-to-rubber, not rubber to fabric, so you are probably best to use the larger patch. Up here, we have a product called Aquaseal which is used to repair wetsuits, shoes etc. I have seen it used to coat fabric areas on inflatables (but not to stick a patch on). I wonder if something like this over the exposed fabric, but under the patch, would help to keep the fabric from getting saturated...

S
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Old 03 November 2006, 17:03   #20
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seems harsh but....

could you cut a hole in the back cone at the top, and repair the patch from the inside,

then patch the hole you made, easier as its above water level, with minimum resistance.

i have also seen smears of sikaflex fix surprising holes as long as its not under tension. looking at your pictures it might work, but its abit of a last option.

best of luck
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