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Old 17 November 2003, 07:11   #21
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My studs are the type that are bolts really-so I am not hitting onto a thread but a bolt head. Personally i can never find anywhere I can get a hammer into on the back of the drum cos the axle/brake cables etc get in the way. Doesnt need much of a tap to free them on the studs-but each to their own of course. Another thing we have found useful in keeping the brakes working is to loosely tie the cables with shock cord so that they keep a nice curve but instead of the loop hanging downwards, allowing any seawater to collect in the middle of the cable and rust them away, the curve is upwards so as not to form a water trap.
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Old 17 November 2003, 11:25   #22
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Another tip is to replace the brake cables every year, cost approx £15 compared to cost of seized bearing due to brakes jamming on of £200 plus.
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Old 17 November 2003, 13:30   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by wavelength
If they do stick we find the effective way out is to clout the end of the wheel studs with a hammer as they are bolted into the drum and will give a direct shock to jar them off.
we find hitting the backplate whilst someone rocks the boat back and forward does the trick.

Also I have sen a trailer that instead of the two bowden cables running from the main cable had two open cables around a pulley to pull on the brakes. Hence the cables cannot seize. Also it had a brass fitting screwed to the top of the drum with a hose permanently attached with a hoselock fitting at the front soyou can just plug in and flush brakes. I believe you buy it as a kit but I haven't found it yet
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Old 17 November 2003, 13:34   #24
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nut the studs!

Whacking on the studs is fine and very effective; just wind on a nut (full depth if possible) so you DON'T damage the threads. Whack the drum, too; very high carbon (so it is stiff), and therefore a tad brittle, so don't give Lennox Lewis whacks. Also, if no gas is around, a quick heat with a torch can often break the "rust". john
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Old 17 November 2003, 14:01   #25
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Try using a copper / hide mallet then there is no damage to threads or drum
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Old 17 November 2003, 16:16   #26
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great tips many thanks guys
at present ive freed the wheel by rocking too & fro attached to the car desprate i know... but thats what i love about this forum more than oneway to skin a cat if you know how.

alistair
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Old 18 November 2003, 17:52   #27
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one other thing worth considering is that not all winches are correctly rated to the weight of the boat. My well known trailer(supplied by uk importer) has a max pulling load of 1000kg with a boat that weighs 1400kg unladen. I drive on but have damaged my boat as i recover on a slip that can have 4kt side tide, so now have side bars for my peace of mind
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Old 19 November 2003, 03:58   #28
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From what you say it sounds like the winch is OK for your boat.

Don't forget that you're not trying to lift the boat up with it, just pulling it onto the trailer which needs much less effort.

John
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Old 19 November 2003, 04:15   #29
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IF bashing the drum doesn't work for you, there is one other trick left. Thats lots of violence. Hitch up to a big 4x4. Select low ratio and go for it, backwards and forwards. Its not pretty but if someone (Jasper) as left your handbrake on for a fortnight its the only solution.

Regular stripping of the brakes is a must.

Pete
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Old 22 November 2003, 10:56   #30
tue
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A bit late but i've just worked out how to attach pics.

Heres the hose fittings and cable pulley system.
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