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Old 28 February 2007, 15:08   #1
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Best way to repair PVC fabric

Hi, this is my first post. Tons of opinions in the internet about how difficult it is to repair PVC fabric.

Im looking into buying a 11' dinghy inflatable but dont want to pay the higher price of hypalon.

Ive seen inflatables made with Strongman Duotex like some Zodiacs and 1100 Decitex (Dtex) plastomer PVC used in others.

Both are a a form of PVC and thermobonded at the factory right?

What is the best way to repair these PVC fabrics by gluing?
Which glue: (Clifton Urethane Adhesive, Stabond)?
Which fabric to use for repair?

thanks!
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Old 01 March 2007, 07:56   #2
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Hi and welcome to Ribnet. Do a search of the forums, the information you need is here. It was discussed a couple of weeks ago too.
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Old 01 March 2007, 11:55   #3
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Try these guys for info:

http://www.nrsweb.com/repair/inflatable.asp?tn=50

The problem with PVC is that it is very difficult to repair a leaking seam (i.e. a weld that's gone bad.) Holes and small slits are not that big a deal, but seams are a problem. With hypalon, you can open the seam up to where you can effectively re-build it; with PVC that's not an option.

Good luck;

jky
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Old 01 March 2007, 11:58   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
..The problem with PVC is that it is very difficult to repair a leaking seam (i.e. a weld that's gone bad.) ...
Sand it smooth and stick a patch onto it.
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Old 01 March 2007, 13:22   #5
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jwalker....
what do u mean by sanding sooth a seam??

how can this be done when its an overlapping seam (step in the material)???

thanks!
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Old 01 March 2007, 13:34   #6
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Just sand down the edge of the weld to feather it onto the lower level. Make sure it is feathered for a distance each side of the leak so the patch rests on good surface around the whole of the leaky area.

Similarly, you can feather the lower edge of the patch so that there isn't a step around the edge of it.
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Old 01 March 2007, 13:42   #7
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Quote:
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Sand it smooth and stick a patch onto it.
Good tip, if I ever end up with a PVC boat...

jky
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Old 01 March 2007, 13:45   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
Good tip, if I ever end up with a PVC boat...

jky
It works on waders, too.
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Old 01 March 2007, 14:42   #9
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I don't know how to quote a previous post yet, but we use the same procedure that jwalker describes. Also, make sure you have the correct adhesive that is based on polyurethane. Two part adhesive is best for long lasting, heat resistant bonds. Apply thin, evenly spread out coats of glue and don't try to rush the job.

DB
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Old 01 March 2007, 15:17   #10
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Which is the best long lasting glue for PVC material such as DUOTEX or 1100 DECITEX?

I have only found Stabond being oferred thru the internet....

thanks!!!
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Old 01 March 2007, 15:20   #11
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It may be worth your while having a look at this site
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Old 01 March 2007, 15:48   #12
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Polymarine looks like a good product.
Does anyone know who supplies in the US?

Is the 2903 solvent used as a primer before any adhesive in PVC or only before polymarine?

Any opinions on Stabond?

thanks!
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Old 01 March 2007, 16:00   #13
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Stabond 2 part adhesive works fine. You may be able to find it easier in the US since it is distributed by Mercury Marine for use on their PVC inflatables. You may be able to find it locally if there is a Mercury dealer selling their inflatables.

Duotex is a made up marketing word used to describe the base fabric that has been coated. 1100 decitex (dtex) is textile industry terminology used to describe the yarns that the base fabric are woven from.

If you do have a PVC tube, Stabond will work. You can use acetone to prepare and clean the surfaces you want to join with the glue. Do not use paint thinner or turpentine instead of acetone.

DB
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Old 01 March 2007, 16:06   #14
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The purpose of the solvent or acetone is to clean and soften the PVC or just clean before the glue???
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Old 01 March 2007, 16:25   #15
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The solvent you need is MEK (Methyl-ethyl-ketone). For want of a better explanation, it conditions the surface for the adhesive. Polymarine do not make the adhesive, they market it under their own name. Bostik is a manufacturer of a suitable adhesive but I can't remember the part number. As suggested, if the area to be repaired is small a PVC repair adhesive from an alternative source will be suitable.
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Old 01 March 2007, 16:31   #16
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Before cleaning with solvent I should sand the surface of the tube (PVC), or just begin by cleaning with solvent, with no sanding and continue with the repair??
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Old 01 March 2007, 16:41   #17
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The solvent will clean and prepare the surface for the adhesive. I agree with jwalker that MEK is the best solvent to use. In North America it is not the easiest solvent to source. I suggested acetone since it is usually easy to obtain. It will not be as "aggressive" as MEK, but it works.

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Old 01 March 2007, 16:45   #18
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No sanding then to patch a PVC tube,,,,unless there is a need to feather the seam to eliminate the step right????
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Old 01 March 2007, 16:56   #19
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Yep, no sanding unless needed to remove the step. After wiping the repair area with solvent and allowing the solvent to evaporate, the surface should feel tacky or sticky. If the surface doesn't feel tacky, you probably have an old, weathered tube that may require some light sanding.

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Old 02 March 2007, 01:18   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker View Post
Bostik is a manufacturer of a suitable adhesive but I can't remember the part number. As suggested, if the area to be repaired is small a PVC repair adhesive from an alternative source will be suitable.
Bostik adhesives are impossible to find in the US (at least, any that I would be interested in.)

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