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Old 14 August 2010, 00:04   #1
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Country: USA
Town: Houston, TX
Boat name: Lady Ashley
Make: Avon SR 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 70 Merc 2S
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Best $6 ever spent on Searider

This 4" expansion plug from local plumbing supplier fits the ballast drain hole in my 5.4 SR perfectly. It is adjustable, watertight and easily removable to let the bilge drain and allow access if necessary, or if I change my mind later about wanting a flooding hull.
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Old 14 August 2010, 05:29   #2
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That's the oulet sorted. What about the inlet ports in the bow?
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Old 14 August 2010, 23:48   #3
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Country: USA
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Make: Avon SR 5.4
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Posts: 96
For now I am using a similar compression type plug that is normaly used to stop the bilge drain in most other boats. I may add a through hull fitting and use as an outlet for a bilge pump hose.
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Old 15 August 2010, 04:23   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefflee2k View Post
For now I am using a similar compression type plug that is normaly used to stop the bilge drain in most other boats. I may add a through hull fitting and use as an outlet for a bilge pump hose.
An easy one, is rubber blanking plugs holes in car boots,the kind you normally have to knock out to fit a tow bar..

the bow holes are irrelevant with regard to access,so you can glue these gromets in place,they look like they are meant to be there and cause no drag..
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Old 18 August 2010, 16:16   #5
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Country: USA
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Boat name: Sanford 6M
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My solution was cheaper... I used a sawzall to cut off the deck, ballast "systems", and installed a new transom / plugged the holes.

Well, I guess my solution was cheaper if we are only counting material, and not labor I also have a long way to go, before the boat is ready for primetime...
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Old 18 August 2010, 19:30   #6
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Country: USA
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My flooding hull days are over. Water got into the deck around the threaded bolt anchors where the original console was mounted. I had to break out the sawzall on mine as well. I was expecting to find that all of the wood was bad, but fortunately the bad stuff was contained to the areas around the anchors. I just spent the last 2 days up to my elbows in fiberglass. I glassed the inside of the hull, but I wouldn't want to subject it to constant contact with the water, so I'll be riding high and dry from now on.
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Old 18 August 2010, 21:34   #7
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Sorry... just connected you with the 5.4 reference in the other thread. Yes, I had the same experience with rot. Everything in the bow was okay, but the stern was completely rotted. Now I'm working on the transom. I think I'm going to "sandwich" the transom with 1/2" Baltek, and completely wrap it in fiberglass. I haven't decided on whether or not I'm going to put a bracket on. While I've got everything apart, I might do it, I just don't know how the boat will perform...
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Old 19 August 2010, 06:08   #8
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Haven't seen it done on anyones SR here, but I'm sure someone has. Usually the further back you can put the motor, the better it will perform. Do a search on:

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/ or
http://forums.iboats.com/search.php

both have lots of good "been there; done that" advice.
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Old 26 April 2011, 13:40   #9
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After seeing your red plug, i had to get one. I ended up picking up the same exact one at lowes. It fits perfectly, and since my sr6 has the breather tube under the console and not in the front of the hull, theres no need to plug anything else. Its a really simple way to block off the flooding hull.
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