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Old 19 August 2015, 08:38   #11
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Work proceed

Thanks to the informative and inspiring information on Rib.Net i have started doing this Transom Replacement (Comments very welcome)

You can see how rotten the core is, I used a hair dryer (rather than a hot air gun...) to release the glue bonding the tube the the sides of the transom, thought i would have less chance of setting everything on fire

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Chipping the core out and blunting all my chisels

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All the wood is out down to deck level where it seems dry and strong

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New transom cut from 18mm 8 core marine ply, the gaps at one end are to give it wriggle room to slide in, ill epoxy fill these.

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Now to Epoxy prime it and set it in with more epoxy. need to go and get 10 clamps, advice is not o over clamp and squeeze all the epoxy out.
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Old 19 August 2015, 08:42   #12
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Cleaned up the surfaces

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Old 20 August 2015, 15:44   #13
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Well done you!!
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Old 20 August 2015, 17:19   #14
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I'm sorry but I don't believe that just replacing the transom to deck level is the correct procedure, the transom relies on one single structure of wood for strength, in this case (SR4) the transom continues to the keel, just replacing the wood to deck level is building in weakness.
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Old 20 August 2015, 17:21   #15
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Hold on he hasn't finished dude, I'm sure he'll keep going
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Old 20 August 2015, 18:26   #16
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Hold on he hasn't finished dude, I'm sure he'll keep going
But he's already fitting the new Ply from deck level and above having said the bit below is sound. I think RibRaff is right to shout now rather than when he's finished and is applying the final coat of varnish... ...No? Now how much flex happens through the bottom part of the transom I have no idea... but if it was me I'd want someone to make me think and at the very least then I might beef up the knees to the deck as the top transom wont be directly secured to the keel.
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Old 20 August 2015, 18:38   #17
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Where's the knees? When I did my transom the wood only went down 2/3rds then it was sold glass. However if wood had travelled south anymore then the water most likely would have also. Gravity sucks.
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Old 20 August 2015, 18:54   #18
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Where's the knees?
Looks like it has s/s ones rather than glassed in ones. Glassed would reduce flexing better which if there is concern about the bottom transom join I'd think would be a better solution?
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Old 21 August 2015, 04:33   #19
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thanks for these comments
i have put a couple of test holes below the deck in the gap between the laminate and the wood only continues another 3cm.i would have to destroy a lot more to get this last 3 cm out cleanly.
also there is a 5cm lip of the old inner laminate which is strong to bond to.
an epoxy bond between the new and existing wood would be pretty strong.
will put some knees in as per suggestion, makes sense too me, but what do i know
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Old 21 August 2015, 08:26   #20
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When i compare my floor with the below project photo it is different. i cut a hole in the floor centre to put a well in for a bilge pump, the flooding tube is directly under the floor with no space between, ie the floor is resting on the orange glass fibre pipe in the hull. on the below there is a much larger space and the transom goes right through to the hull.
there must be more than one hull design for the sr4's?
when i inspect into the gap in the bottom of the transom i have removed there doesn't seem to be a great deal of wood below the floor, and i cant find a picture of a similar project with the floor out to see what the original transom would have looked like.

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