Anchor locker & tiller console

Bieny · 02 July 2013, 06:32

Just made the move from SIB to RIB and got a new Mercury 430 Ocean Runner.

It has an anchor locker at the front and I was wondering what you use to protect the locker from the anchor bouncing around. There's no drain in the locker so I don't really fancy using a bit of old carpet going smelly in there! Maybe some type of marine grade sticky back foam?

I plan to use it as an open boat and keep the outboard on a tiller, does anyone make a little console/box that can house a battery with space on top for a chart plotter, compass ect?

Any input would be appreciated

Chris Caton · 02 July 2013, 06:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bieny

Just made the move from SIB to RIB and got a new Mercury 430 Ocean Runner.

It has an anchor locker at the front and I was wondering what you use to protect the locker from the anchor bouncing around. There's no drain in the locker so I don't really fancy using a bit of old carpet going smelly in there! Maybe some type of marine grade sticky back foam?

I plan to use it as an open boat and keep the outboard on a tiller, does anyone make a little console/box that can house a battery with space on top for a chart plotter, compass ect?

Any input would be appreciated

I just use an anchor extension rope to cushion the anchor from the hull and a few extra mooring lines on top to stop it bouncing, also fitted a strap to secure it if really rough conditions

I did try a rubber mat, but it just curled up around the edges and held more water under it, never dried out and went a touch mouldy, the rope has worked best for me

AJ. · 02 July 2013, 08:47

+ 1 pack it with rope lay anchor on top and put fenders or spare rope on top. You need to be in Mensa to work out how to pack it all in (PeterM couldn't do it!) but it doesn't bounce around and scratch the locker

And I can get it all out very quickly before any jumps in about emergency situations. Just the repacking needs a bit of thought.

whisper · 02 July 2013, 09:18

I also put a piece of foam on the top of mine to stop it bouncing up and hitting the lid

gotchiguy · 02 July 2013, 09:21

This is what we use: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vibrationa-R.../dp/B009XU1BHE

Lasts about 2 seasons then you have to change it (preferably before it cuts through and scratches the floor....

Bieny · 02 July 2013, 12:15

Sounds like the rope is the way to go - with some foam under the lid.

ian parkes · 02 July 2013, 18:59

I lined mine with a camping mat on the last boat , and the rope under it too .
I got fed up with moving kit to get to the anchor all the time so put the anchor and rope in a tee surgeons rope bag and keep it out on top of the rest of the kit . The locker is more use for spare fuel and stuff i don't need all the time . As for a consul box and battery for me that defeates the object of having the boat on a tiller . I use a garmin hand held with marine chart works well and 2 AA batteries last a few days .

Peter_C · 02 July 2013, 19:48

I designed my own electronics tower to fit my equipment. This thread has a few options.

http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/nice-lo...sib-49728.html

Ian M · 02 July 2013, 20:19

+ another 1 for line under the anchor, and lots of it

mister p · 02 July 2013, 20:38

And don't be shy of drilling a drain hole, just ream the edges, 1cm diameter is fine......and paint the raw glass.
In theory ( and actually in practice) the packing of an anchor should follow it's dropping, so to pack it should be soft stuff first, then chain bits and then the anchor itself. Covered in whatever warp is around to aid mooring, towing etc.
That should be enough to stymie the banging. A thick rubber ring to hold the lid closed will stop the rattle.

Bieny · 03 July 2013, 07:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter_C

I designed my own electronics tower to fit my equipment. This thread has a few options.

That's the one I had seen, maybe a little lower though. Anyone know where to get one or do I need to build one?

Bieny · 03 July 2013, 14:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bieny

That's the one I had seen, maybe a little lower though. Anyone know where to get one or do I need to build one?

I mean a little lower than the one on the zodiac not your one

Peter_C · 04 July 2013, 03:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bieny

I mean a little lower than the one on the zodiac not your one

No worries, mine is a one off design specifically set up for the purpose of scuba diving (Space is the biggest issue), with the ability for quick removal upon beach recovery (Weight becomes the issue). Everyone has different needs, and that is why you can build whatever fits your needs taken from the idea of others.

Bieny · 04 July 2013, 05:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter_C

No worries, mine is a one off design specifically set up for the purpose of scuba diving (Space is the biggest issue), with the ability for quick removal upon beach recovery (Weight becomes the issue). Everyone has different needs, and that is why you can build whatever fits your needs taken from the idea of others.

So yours is cnc cut plastic with glued corners? How thick is it? I think I will use Alu and have it powder coated. Is there a specific type of powder coat for marine use?

Peter_C · 04 July 2013, 16:13

Correct 3/16" ABS, CNC cut, with fully glued and reinforced corners. My battery is sealed inside it as a dry box. It is a Hawker Odyssey AGM though.

ABS is far easier to work with than aluminum and cheaper. I have no idea on powder coating aluminum. For marine applications I typically just TIG weld up stainless, as it doesn't corrode.

mister p · 04 July 2013, 19:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter_C

Correct 3/16" ABS, CNC cut, with fully glued and reinforced corners. My battery is sealed inside it as a dry box. It is a Hawker Odyssey AGM though.

ABS is far easier to work with than aluminum and cheaper. I have no idea on powder coating aluminum. For marine applications I typically just TIG weld up stainless, as it doesn't corrode.

Peter........ Unfortunately SS does corrode, not as readily but it does.

Peter_C · 05 July 2013, 05:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by mister p

Peter........ Unfortunately SS does corrode, not as readily but it does.

Well if it outlasts the boat hull...who cares?

My 316 stainless so far doesn't show any corrosion. Some lower grade 304 stuff has a little rust. Still it will outlast the boat.

In the past I used some 6061 I had lying around and it wound up with holes in it

It was the wrong application for it though, and had direct contact with stainless.

The more I work with ABS. the more I like it. I built my mounts from HDPE, which is very close to working with wood. Plus I get the material for free.

Bieny · 05 July 2013, 06:01

Ali will be lighter than stainless and its easier to work with, ABS sounds ok but I can't be trusted with glue!

Festinghouse · 05 July 2013, 12:44

powder coating should have 'zinc rich' basecoat for marine use. customer of mine powder coated my new nav frame and thats what he used.