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Old 09 March 2005, 10:27   #11
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All good advice!

To be honest I carry probably a little more anchor chain (20m) than I need and it's also larger chain (8mm), I also have 50m of decent sized warp which again is probably more oversized than it needs to be to as the tide around Guernsey can be a bit ferocious at times.

Anyone moor off Rosiere Steps in Herm and had to reset their anchor half a dozen times will know what I'm on about as the tide rips through their on a spring tide.

Anyway going back to the question. I have the anchor attached to inside cleat near the bow (if you have one......if not it's worth getting either a small sampson post or large cleat fixed there as they are dead handy!). I then tie off an anchor bend to the d-ring on the front.......

Or use a bowline and high strength carabina/clip and clip it to the d-ring which to be honest saves me going red in the face trying to lean over the bow and tie a knot whilst remembering to breath!

Never had a problem doing this over the years and the only time I lost an anchor was dropping the anchor onto a dive site wreck which got caught on the wreck itself and not realising until everyone was back up from the dive! Couldn't do anything about it except wait until someone decompresses or cut the line!

Mr impatient had to go and buy himself a new anchor rig!
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Old 09 March 2005, 15:32   #12
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Simons scenario seems pretty much what i would do also.....

Calculate suitability of location etc etc and fake out the required length of line in the boat ensuring that you have a few metres excess.

Drop the hook making the line off on a cleat or D ring on the deck (ensuring that there is still that extra few metres slack inside the boat).

Take your painter which is securely made off to the very strong D ring on the bow externally and tie the end of it to the already streamed anchor line with a rolling hitch (make sure it rolls and holds in the right direction!).

Ease away the main anchor line which is made off internally untill the strain is all on the bow painter, D ring and rolling hitch.

Leave some slack and make the internal line off again.

This sounds more complicated than it is however, this method will ensure that the tubes are not being rubbed against by a taught line and of course it means that the line is made off on what is probably the boats strongest point whilst illiminating difficulties of leaning over the bow and trying to clip a shackle on.

If then, either setup should fail, there is always a back up which is secured and could save loosing that expensive anchor and warp!

It is also always very useful attaching a trip line to the anchor just in case its snags - whatever the chart says the seabed is like! This is very easy to rig and again could save an anchor!

Hope this helps.
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Old 09 March 2005, 15:37   #13
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Oh -- having a line still attached internally makes recovery a breeze too and prevents the possibility of an MOB when leaning over the bow trying to untie a knot or unclip a shackle!
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Old 10 March 2005, 04:25   #14
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Best of both worlds IMHO - Have a shackle/caribiner permanently on end of painter. Anchor warp can be attached at correct length in comfort and safety of boat, then paid out till painter takes the strain as Simon says. Haul on anchor warp when retrieving, and unclip from painter - again inside boat. My rope to rope knots (especially with cold & wet hands) are not the best in the world, so I find it easier with a shackle/caribiner which I can open.

Just my 2 cents worth....

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Old 10 March 2005, 06:05   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seb
tie the end of it to the already streamed anchor line with a rolling hitch (make sure it rolls and holds in the right direction!).
You should not be relying on a rolling hitch. It is not secure and needs tension on all 3 ends to work effectively. Use a bowline or similar non constricting knot. A carabiner is ok but be aware they can be sprung open.

A few years ago I lent my boat to a yachty friend of mine to get out to his anchored yacht after a session in the pub. It had a long line clipped to the D ring with a snap shackle. During the night the snap shackle sprung undone and the boat drifted away. Next morning all my friend had was a bowline on the end. The boat was found next day on margate sands some 15 miles away.

There is excellent advice in this thread and goes to show there is more than one way to skin a rabbit.

Tim'mers.
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Old 10 March 2005, 07:16   #16
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You'd be surprised at the 'power' of a rolling hitch!

It wont need any load on the 'tail' to keep is tight once pulling tension in both directions is working (which there should be loads of from the anchor).

This will work with no problem but as said, there are loads of methods...you could tie a bowline with a bite in the anchor line where the rolling hitch would be and then tie the painter to it with another bowline, sheet bend or even a shackle etc.

Just needs some imagination!

Either way, its still handy to have that slack end of the main line made off in the boat as its likely to prevent scenarios like yachts floating away
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Old 10 March 2005, 14:41   #17
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Seb,
Absolutely right arolling hitch can work wonders under load, but as I said it is not secure and you cant do one in the middle of the warp, only at the end!

Tim'mers.
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Old 10 March 2005, 18:00   #18
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Well I'm all fired up with enthusiasm and propane and hydrogen; I will:

Splice on a heavy duty painter for towing (come on it's a dive RIB we have a bridle at the stern why not similar at bow?) Will keep lighter duty one for clipping on mid point as "hawser recovery aid"
Splice on two leaders from the anchor locker D ring with good carabiners on the ends

The three lines will be in a contrasting colour to all other lines in the boat, so if you are anchoring and it isnt tied to a black?/blue? rope you are not secure. Will also endeavour to phase out the having to do hang over the bow thing. Not easy in the morning following some of our "dive planning evenings"
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Old 11 March 2005, 12:35   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Hawkins
As long as the end of the anchor line is attached to a strong point on the boat cant really see what difference if would make. If want to attach more line then all you would do would be to tie the other line to the anchor line by way of a reef knot. Of course you will know how much line to put out before dropping the anchor and therefore cant see the need to be adding more line once the anchor is down.
I use a rode with thimbles at both ends. To lengthen, I use a quicklink (not a carabiner, but the screw-closed chain link replacement thingie) as it is less likely to accidentally open. For securing to the boat, a carabiner.

Anchor, shackle (wired closed) chain, shackle (wired closed) rode, knot to get correct scope), carabiner, excess rode, float, carabiner attached to boat.

One other thing I do (which I feel is fairly imprtant for a dive boat) is to put a float on the boat end of the rode. Should something happen (injured diver, drifting diver in current, etc.), unclip the rode from the boat, toss the mess overboard, and motor off to handle the situation. Come back, recover the float, and there's your anchor. It also makes an OK ascent line for remaining divers in case you have to leave for whatever reason.


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