Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 12 May 2013, 16:37   #61
RIBnet admin team
 
Nos4r2's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
Make: Ballistic 7.8/SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Opti 225/Yam 85
MMSI: 235090687/235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,645
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPR View Post
you could always drill the holed 15 mm for the 10mm bolts - and then use bathroom silcone filler to fill any voids ... if you get it wrong fit square big plate over the mess - and nobody will know...

S.



Luckily that's about the only thing I haven't had to deal with!
__________________
Need spares,consoles,consumables,hire,training or even a new boat?

Please click HERE and HERE and support our Trade Members.

Join up as a Trade member or Supporter HERE
Nos4r2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2013, 16:42   #62
Member
 
Nick Hearne's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Blue & Ding Dong
Make: Ribeye,SR4 & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115,50 & 15Hp Yams
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,242
Have you drilled the fecking holes yet??



We need photo proof too!
__________________

__________________
Member of the Ribeye supporters club!!!
Member of Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Member of SR4 club
Nick Hearne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2013, 16:59   #63
Member
 
Bigmuz7's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
Funny feckers them Frenchies
Ya .. in context that is weird almost welch even ?
__________________
Bigmuz7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21 May 2013, 18:23   #64
Member
 
Country: France
Town: Cannes
Boat name: midkat 550
Make: apoge
Length: 5m +
Engine: 2x50 Tohatsu
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 126
I suggest the following :

- you need a bloc of hard plastic, or better metal (ali) deep enough, for instance 2 inches, to keep the bit straight while you drill. It must be large enough to allow it to be safely clamped to the transom
- you drill one perpendicular hole (or more) , with a static drilling machine, router or equivalent. The diameter of the bit must be that of the hole you want into your transom - say 10mm
- you punch the holes centre on the transom, and pre-drill them @ 5mm for instance, 5mm deep, to get a pre-centering hole
- now you drill them @10mm, 5mm deep
- you set the metal block in place, using the bit as a centering tool, and clamp it in place

Now you can drill the 1st hole through the transom.
When this is done, just do the same for the other ones.

I would suggest to add a plywood clamped together with the block, on the other side of the transom to get a clean hole.
Other suggestion : use an old 10mm bit first, because a new one will be ruined after a few holes due to GRP abrasion ...

I have a block specially done with 2x10mm holes, I used it to drill U-bolts holes into transom.
__________________

__________________
yorfuoj is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 18:43.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.