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Old 06 November 2011, 17:06   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers View Post
And a 2.5t mini digger.
Oh yeah, for the 'adjustable' floor too.
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Old 06 November 2011, 17:24   #12
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Cheers Downhilldai - that's helpfull. 8' 6" for a benchmark... any others?

Regarding the slope leading to the car port - the drive does slope quite a bit down to the car port, then levels abruptly as the car port starts, the way I see it is that the boat will be attached to the car reversing in and pulling out (plenty of swing area on driveway and road) As the trailer reverses down the driveway the rib will be at a steep angle meaning the A frame will be low (angled back) as it passes the doorway, then as the trailer wheels meet the flat car port floor the rib will 'level out' and the A frame will return to vertical (or whatever angle it is manufactured to) . The same should be applicable as I tow the rib back out...

Does that make sense to anyone else or is it just my wishful thinking?!
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Old 07 November 2011, 02:02   #13
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I measured up mine for the new garage I am building so that I can fit it in when I need to and settled on a 2.8m high x 3.0m wide door, IIRC the top of the wee AIS aerial was about 2.65m sitting coupled to the Ranger on flat tarmac, and I worked on the basis of replacing the VHF aerial with a folding one as it was cheaper to change the aerial than build the garage a metre higher!! The beam is about 2.6m.

As above though it depends on the angle of approach of the driveway relative to the floor, the angle of the trailer (jack it up on the jockey wheel and the A frame will drop) and also whether there is a step/ramp up as you go in the doorway - if there is then it might help as the A frame will be inside the door aperture before the wheels hit the ramp, but in any garage designed for a car I guess this will be minimal.

If you are really stuck the other thing you can do is get a little set of dolly wheels for the trailer (smallest you can find with the same stud pattern) and fit these which will bring down both the overall height and make the boat sit down more at the stern. It's a fiddle to change them so not suitable for every time but may be suitable for off season storage and it is a common way to get a big 4x4 into a little garage for a major project!
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Old 07 November 2011, 05:07   #14
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OK all sounds good.. Humber emailled me back saying that a 6m Humber on a trailer would be typically 2.4m from ground to top of A frame when sat on a trailer. They suggested that 2.5m headroom without any further accesssories mounted on the A frame should be a safe bet, at 2.7m already I should be fine.. :-)

Second question - the roof is currently clear corrugated polycarbonate sheeting - great because it lets in light, but there are broken panels I will have to replace. Is the sunlight coming through the roof panels going to degrade the hypalon tubes? Would I be better felting the roof instead?
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Old 07 November 2011, 06:22   #15
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Yes it will. Anything that lets light through is going to allow that so you'd either need a solid roof, or a cover to go over the boat.
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Old 09 November 2011, 17:59   #16
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Thanks everyone. In summary it would seem that a 2.7m high garage door is fine so no need to increase that and that polycarbonate roof panels aren't going to filter out harmful UV rays or whatever ti is in sunlight that destroys hypalon so a felt roof or similar is the way forward.

Thanks for everyone's advice
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Old 09 November 2011, 18:30   #17
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Correction: polycarbonate blocks nearly 100% of the UV portion of the spectrum. That's why its used in sunglasses and such. It will often yellow with age and UV exposure so its not the best material for roofs in general. Although its nice that it lets in visible light.

Hypalon is fairly resistant to UV compared to PVC, and polycarbonate blocks the vast majority of UV anyway. So if the naturally lighted garage is otherwise working for you, I would just replace the cracked panels.
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Old 10 November 2011, 04:27   #18
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Is your carport going to have a flat or pitched roof? Assuming it's going to have a fall on it, either side to side or front to back, the highest part of the carport might not correspond to the highest bit of your "A" frame. To allow a fall on the roof, might mean making the roof around a foot higher than the boat. I'm not sure if that makes sense, but I know what I mean I went through the same exercise meself about 3 years ago & the roof ended up nearly as high as the house. Wife wasn't over the moon but she's got used to it
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Old 10 November 2011, 04:57   #19
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I also have a steep attack angle to my garage, and have marked both the jockey wheel outer against the clamp and counted the number of turns of the handle - too high & the back of the trailer clips the ground, to low & the ARW gets "met" by the door.At the worst point I have literally 0.5" clearance. Both antenna are on swivel clamps. I can't reverse all the way in - my hitch is 2" too high off the ground!

I;s low on the prority list but replaceent with a folding frame will make that first 10yds of the trip soooooo uch easier!
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Old 11 November 2011, 04:19   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captnjack View Post
Correction: polycarbonate blocks nearly 100% of the UV portion of the spectrum. That's why its used in sunglasses and such. It will often yellow with age and UV exposure so its not the best material for roofs in general. Although its nice that it lets in visible light.

Hypalon is fairly resistant to UV compared to PVC, and polycarbonate blocks the vast majority of UV anyway. So if the naturally lighted garage is otherwise working for you, I would just replace the cracked panels.
Are you sure? My father's conservatory roof is twinwall polycarbonate and he certainly manages to top up his tan ok which must involve UV
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