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Old 23 August 2006, 11:41   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Stephen, without the A-frame there will be plenty of room. Here is a couple of pics as proof and the aux is a 30hp Mariner. Apologies for the lack of clarity, I've cropped them from bigger pics. There is a thread somewhere on ribnet describing how to connect both motors together for steering from the consol.
Thanks.

I think the short term is going to see the existing A frame meet Mr A Grinder to leave a mast on the starboard side for the VHF aerial and will check if nav lights are compulsory but I don't think there are any regulations on a boat this size in this part of the world, that will get me mobile with the aux and a radio which are the main considerations.

I have got contact details for a guy who does all sorts of bespoke metalwork from one of the Land Rover forums I use, so I might get something different made up if it is a sensible price - it would only be a couple of hours work with the right tools and a bit of know-how, its just that I don't have either. A single hoop with a couple of fixing brackets welded on can't be too expensive ... all I want is something to stop the nav lights falling in the water

The next stupid question from this direction will be how to fill up the holes in the transom for a few months, but I'll go and do a search first because I'm sure it has been asked before...
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Old 23 August 2006, 13:20   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
Thanks.

I think the short term is going to see the existing A frame meet Mr A Grinder to leave a mast on the starboard side for the VHF aerial and will check if nav lights are compulsory but I don't think there are any regulations on a boat this size in this part of the world, that will get me mobile with the aux and a radio which are the main considerations.

I have got contact details for a guy who does all sorts of bespoke metalwork from one of the Land Rover forums I use, so I might get something different made up if it is a sensible price - it would only be a couple of hours work with the right tools and a bit of know-how, its just that I don't have either. A single hoop with a couple of fixing brackets welded on can't be too expensive ... all I want is something to stop the nav lights falling in the water

The next stupid question from this direction will be how to fill up the holes in the transom for a few months, but I'll go and do a search first because I'm sure it has been asked before...
shouldn't be any regs on lights unless you are out at night. but you may regret disconnecting/removing them - surprisingly expensive for a light bulb and bit of coloured glass. especially with your long nights.

don't grind the frame yet - you'll be horrified at the cost of new one (never mind the shipping).

Could you just fit some spacers to move fwd/back an inch or two?

Does it stop you steering the main engine when its on or is it just you can't steer the aux.
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Old 23 August 2006, 14:02   #13
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a frame clearance

I have had this problem before and got round it by having a plate fabricated which stood off the transom and had bracing plates on the inside of the boat, one of the A frame holes was used and a fraction bigger bolt then reinserted. The Engine when in situe effectively sat behind the A frame and the handle therefore was able to be positioned over the tube and not against the engine. Sorry no pix, hope you get the idea. The engine was slightly turned over the tube as well
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Old 23 August 2006, 14:57   #14
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I have similar issue with my 4hp aux hitting the tubes on 4m searider (fairly narrow transom and engine had to be jammed right against the tubes to allow main engine to turn full lock) but I was able to effectively tie it to prevent it moving - you'll find it will naturally want to move one way rather than the other (even when locked down hard) so you can usually tie against this.

Steering with the main engine works a treat once it's all balanced - you loose a little bit of speed (0.2 knts in my case) due to drag of main engine skeg but you can steer from the wheel which is much easier and also gets the weight forwards! You may be able to trim engine most of the way up (reducing drag) and still get enough steerage.

I had a short shaft aux so it wasn't close to the main engine in terms of depth clearance but on another engine with hydrofoils it was possible for the aux prop to hit the foils if main engine was turned - just something to look out for!

I'd also advocate not cutting the frame - really useful (and expensive!). If all else fails, a braket is a good solution. It also lifts the aux a bit higher out the way when not in use.
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Old 23 August 2006, 15:36   #15
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Hi Steven

Again, stop pissing about and get a bracket, that is what they are made for. You have tons of room for one. Asumming you are not mechanicaly challenged of course.
Have you got rid of that sausage shaped turd in the middle on your trailer yet and replaced it with rollers ?
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Old 23 August 2006, 15:48   #16
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The existing A frame is a home made one made of black painted galvanised pipe so it isn't anything fancy or expensive to cut up.

I have details of a fabricator who will build just about anything but he doesn't specially deal in marine stuff - mostly motorsport - do I need to specify just "316 stainless steel" or what do I need to say to make sure I get it made of the right stuff? I think I can come up with an alternative design to offer enough clearance... got some measuring to do first though.

I'll check out the brackets but I think the aux tiller would still hit the A frame, will need to sit it on there and have a wiggle about with all combinations of each engine up and down and see what it looks like.

I shall ignore the comment about my fine trailer. No I haven't, cos at the moment it has a boat sitting on it and that won't change till about October
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Old 23 August 2006, 16:48   #17
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Don't bin the A frame Stephen. Turn it around 180 degrees and mount on the inside of the transom on spacers as already mentioned. I'm a big fan of the A frame as a safety device, it's a very handy grab handle at the business end. What else would you lean against when having a wee .
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Old 23 August 2006, 16:49   #18
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Originally Posted by BogMonster
...it would only be a couple of hours work with the right tools and a bit of know-how,....
Famous last words.

Yus deer ayill bee inn forr mee tee inn arfannawur.......not!
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Old 23 August 2006, 17:03   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
Don't bin the A frame Stephen. Turn it around 180 degrees and mount on the inside of the transom on spacers as already mentioned. I'm a big fan of the A frame as a safety device, it's a very handy grab handle at the business end. What else would you lean against when having a wee .
I'll chop off the wiring on the weekend and have a look at that idea before I break out the grinder. Still going to get a quote for a stainless A frame though, as the one on there looks a bit crap!

cheers

Stephen
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Old 23 August 2006, 18:09   #20
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I have a Humber Destroyer 6m, and the aux engine went on the back dim problem.

I think as said earlier on this thread, your engine is quite wide, whereas mine is quite narrow. My a-frame is on the inside of the transom, but I can't see how that would make much difference. The engine does nearly 360, but I get more than 180 degrees out of it which is great cos you can make the boat behave just like a tug with a Z-Drive underneath

edit: sorry, I have just seen - my a-frame curves over the tubes the moment it is above the transom which allows the engine to go in place.

If you want any more pics, let me know.

-Alex
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