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Old 07 November 2016, 06:14   #21
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Sorry, by the way what would be the best price for my evinrude 70hp power tilt and trim? Thanks again alex
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Old 07 November 2016, 06:26   #22
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Post some pics etc. and a chassis plate,, that would help Alex
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Old 07 November 2016, 07:25   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex r View Post
What would be the optimum transom thickness required for a 50hp +engine, thanks alex
I'm running 30mm wood plus GRP on both sides.

Just went down to measure, the Transom is 40mm thick all in all. Makes it a bit stern heavier, but that's still manageable.

Mine has a different Deck-Transom construction than the original one though, my transom goes down all the way to the keel, and the deck has been put in afterwards, whilst Avon originally put in the deck first and then the transom(At least the sandwich part of it).
There are nails going through the deck into the transom which is one of the reasons why the transoms on SR4s tend to be slightly wet.
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Old 07 November 2016, 09:22   #24
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Just popped downn a measued the transom It - 47mm thick +10mm plywood on the outside plus at the top the fiberglass is flush on the inside with a lip of about 3mm, total thickness approximately 57mm, hope this helps.
By the way the engine is a evinrude 70hp 2 stroke long shaft (1981) , with power tilt and trim and remote throttle, cable operated steering, many thanks alex
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Old 07 November 2016, 11:37   #25
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Okay, then someone already reinforced the transom.

The usual SR4(the one with metal transom braces) transom should be fibreglass outside as well as inside with a metal strip screwed on top to prevent water ingress(which it never does properly)

If someone has reinforced your transom by screwing/nailing plywood or sheet metal to the outside - Check the screws/nails for being watertight. that was one thing that killed mine and a friends transom - both SR4s that were being run by the german equivalent of the RNLI, both had heavily "reinforced" transoms, and the wood within the GRP had turned to compost, compromising the stability of the whole boat.

If, of course, your boat is a "deluxe" SR4 without the metal transom braces but with the "moulded" deck and the GRP transom braces, then the above might not be appliable, as I have never taken apart one before.

If your engine is in good condition and has PTT it should fetch a nice price. At least over here in Germany it would.
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Old 07 November 2016, 12:14   #26
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Just so I have it clear mine is fiberglass on the inside going straight over the top and down about 40mm then goes in about 3mm then fiberglass straight down, where the engine mounts there is a plywood panel (chamfered edges) fixed to the transom, 47mm fiberglass to fiberglass +10mm plywood, giving total of about 57mm (ish), does that sound about right, many thanks alex
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Old 07 November 2016, 12:21   #27
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a picture would be better Alex heres pics of my old one
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Old 07 November 2016, 13:35   #28
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That mercury is the very best engine for a sr4. Weighs 80kgs ish... . dont alter the transom.. find the right engine
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Old 07 November 2016, 14:41   #29
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Photos of my rib, any help? Thanks alex
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Old 07 November 2016, 14:58   #30
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Deluxe version. Leave the transom alone and looks for a merc 40-50 two stroke .
Also shift the fuel tank under seat for better weight distribution.
(40 two stroke up to 2006)
(50 two stroke up to 1999) im sure after that they got heavier
Yam 40 two stroke or 4stroke.
Yam 50 two stroke also good but a heavier 3 pot engine.

No more than 100kgs max as it wont go any faster than 39 knots withoit chucking you out. A correctly balanced sr4 will do 37 with a twin pot merc ..
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