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Old 27 January 2009, 12:45   #21
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Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
Sorry to hear about the finger mate, could have been a lot worse by the sound of it though.

As everyone has alread said it is a largish lump you have on the back, but are you sure its trimming right in?

My old 150 Johnson had a stop bar/pin that could be adjusted in a series of holes to limit the amount the engine would trim in. I eventually threw it away so it sat on the cast in stops as I was sure it wasn't in far enough.
Got any close up piccies of it trimmed in so we can see?

Nasher.
Cheers Nasher, yeah could have been allot worse as my hand was covering my face.

I can't trim the engine down at the moment as the battery is off and with my hand done in I can't get it back on.
Just took this with it trimmed up if that tells you anything?
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Old 27 January 2009, 12:51   #22
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Pretty much bang on then-you might be able to swing using a 13x21" but there's not a lot of point unless you want to hit warp speed.



Nah, setting the boat up right is the easier option! It'll make a BIG difference getting the fuel forwards-your engine alone weighs as much as my engine and 75 litres of fuel...
So can rule the prop out then. Warp speed you say? hhhmmm

Like you and chewy said, the tanks do need going forward. Even with them set up in the middle under the console it will still need going forward. May just get one large tank to replace the two 25l to save on space as well.
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Old 27 January 2009, 12:55   #23
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So can rule the prop out then. Warp speed you say? hhhmmm

Like you and chewy said, the tanks do need going forward. Even with them set up in the middle under the console it will still need going forward. May just get one large tank to replace the two 25l to save on space as well.
Yep, warp speed
If the 19 is in Ok condition, I've got a nearly new 13x21" K series prop here I'll swap for it if you want to try silly speeds

If you've got some bostik and a bit of spare hypalon, glue it over the flooding hull holes without keying the hull and try it out. That way if you don't like it you can just peel it off.
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Old 27 January 2009, 13:03   #24
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Yep, warp speed
If the 19 is in Ok condition, I've got a nearly new 13x21" K series prop here I'll swap for it if you want to try silly speeds

If you've got some bostik and a bit of spare hypalon, glue it over the flooding hull holes without keying the hull and try it out. That way if you don't like it you can just peel it off.
You can see in the photo it's just missing some paint


So does a 21 just give you more top end? And I'm guessing more fuel goes with it too

Got sent some black Hypalon by mistake so will use that instead of returning it
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Old 27 January 2009, 13:05   #25
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From what I've read trim tabs are better but hydrofoils are the easier option?
Pretty much , but as Nos says with the weight of boat , motor & water you will be putting a big load on the leg. I've seen hard boats with 100ish HP have them , but no ribs.

I've only seen fins on small ribs - bigger boats go for trim tabs of some kind - but I think your size sits somewhere in the middle !
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Old 27 January 2009, 13:06   #26
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You can see in the photo it's just missing some paint[/img]

So does a 21 just give you more top end? And I'm guessing more fuel goes with it too
Bit more top end,bit less acceleration, revs will be slightly lower at WOT and your cruising fuel consumption will drop slightly

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Got sent some black Hypalon by mistake so will use that instead of returning it
Bargain!

Blackroady has a good point in what he says above about not seeing ribs with doelfins on. I can imagine some damage being caused to the AV plate as it slaps back down after going airborne.
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Old 27 January 2009, 13:08   #27
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Pretty much , but as Nos says with the weight of boat , motor & water you will be putting a big load on the leg. I've seen hard boats with 100ish HP have them , but no ribs.

I've only seen fins on small ribs - bigger boats go for trim tabs of some kind - but I think your size sits somewhere in the middle !
Think I'll look into this when I've got the boat set up better. And have it as an "if all else fails" option. Cheers mate
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Old 27 January 2009, 13:10   #28
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Bit more top end, revs will be slightly lower at WOT and your cruising fuel consumption will drop slightly

Bargain!

Blackroady has a good point in what he says above about not seeing ribs with doelfins on. I can imagine some damage being caused to the AV plate as it slaps back down after going airborne.
Come on there must be a BUT with the 21?

Like I say I'll leave them for now but if it comes to it those auto tabs look good.
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Old 27 January 2009, 13:21   #29
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Come on there must be a BUT with the 21?
Less acceleration. That's about it really... but if you're using the boat heavily laden a lot I'd stick with the 19.
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Old 27 January 2009, 13:29   #30
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What I think you need is Nos42s engine rather than just the prop. You have an awfull lot of weight on the back end of a short rib and a 90 might be a better balanced outfit.

However if you plan to change the consoles around then you will want to put as much weight up the sharp end. The flooding hull is only at the back end which is just were you don't want it so couple of corks and a tennis ball should block the hull up nicely so you get a chance to see what it handles like without the flooding hull.

Had a Yam 115 on an Osprey 5.25, feck it was quick with 17" prop and quite able to throw you off the back of the console. Only tamed it by putting the engine on a 5.95 Osprey. Superb engine though so look after it carefully. I still have a spare stator and coils if they play up btw.

Pete
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