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Old 19 July 2016, 19:42   #31
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Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
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Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonp View Post
Two 40's would give around the same performance as one 60 hp. Personaly I would be looking at a single 70 and sell the other two.

Jon
Aye, summit like that if yer running twin 300s. At the smaller end of the scale those proportions are a lot less...... Just search for my user ID & "twins" - I can't be bothered re- typing it all....

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Originally Posted by beamishken View Post
Far too many people on here have a "can't do that" attitude when actually you can often do just that!
Not everyone has the money or time to get exactly the right thing but often there is a simple answer there that costs very little
The op here can refill his gearbox for less than a tenner and enjoy the remainder of the season when everyone's sat there saying no you can't do that! It's maybe not ideal but it gets him out boating
Your own post says mercs max recommended runout is 30thou you would clearly see 30thou
I reckon I'm somewhere In the middle on this one - is a 5 boat with a 40 any worse than the 4m boat with a 25 I ran for a good few years? doubt it. Flip side a bent prop shaft in my engineering head = short time to gearbox failure. = in my head bad thing...

For every rib owner there will be a cost- affordability- risk balance to be had. Opinions on this forum? - Some I envy their budget. Some I wouldn't touch with a proverbial barge pole. Somewhere In the middle is my perfect boat. Add to that my "perfect" boat now works in a whole different set of constraints to the boat I ran 8 years ago..... Somewhere in the future is my "future perfect" rig.

The OP has a budget. Most of us have probably been there, whether it be last week or 30 years ago. Only the OP has their definition of "performance" and whether that is actually that important or not. Fippin' 'eck - I ran for 4 years happy with a 21 knot Vmax....... I now have a boat capable of 30+.... but I still cruise at around 20., coz guess what? - it's the most fuel efficient speed and ambient engine noise preference for my boat!
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Old 20 July 2016, 01:37   #32
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Boat name: Hebridean Storm
Make: Coastline
Length: 6m +
Engine: Honda 130hp
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So your evidence of a leak is "the oil was a bit milky".
This is a matter of proportion.
I have changed gearbox oil, in total over hundred times, in at least twenty different engines and I've never found one that didn't show some evidence of water in the oil. It's just something that happens (The Seloc Mercruiser manual actually tells you how much water in the bottom of the drive is acceptable) and quality OB gear oil is formulated to perform with some water contamination.

Unless there is a visual or obvious sign of an oil leak I'd just give it a flush, put new oil in it and try it.

Keep checking it every time you bring it home until your confident it's ok.

It's a different kettle of fish for a boat that's left on a mooring but I think you could be getting your knickers in a twist about nothing
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Old 20 July 2016, 02:09   #33
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Make: reiver 3.8/regal3760
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Engine: 40hp 2st 2x6lp 315
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The point is the op has now bought an ancient 85hp suzuki that's laid idle for 2 years which has a little water in the box
His best option is get it out on the water and try it!
As soon as he mentioned it had a gearbox issue people start jumping in "get it sorted" "new seals", "clock gauge on the shaft","gearbox will destroy itself" etc
When actually he needs to get it out on the water to try it out before he spends a penny more.

As for running with a bent shaft it's all relative & depends where it's bent if it's bent inside the box then it will damage internals . If it's bent at the root of the splines (a common place) then if no significant vibration it will be fine.
Someone qouted 30thou run-out as being acceptable by merc which even with the ops static screwdriver test would be easily visible
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Old 20 July 2016, 06:10   #34
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The runout is 3 thou max, not 30, sorry for missing a zero. However, more googling would confirm suzuki I am sure.

The human eye struggles with less than 5 thou, well, mine does!

I guess your idea of mechanical safety (for lack of better term) and mine are poles apart, that much is evident if nothing else. This is not about money, borrow a dial gauge and call it good. Cost free and peace of mind priceless.

However as the oil situation is becoming more clear from OP I would be more hopeful of everything being okay but I would still check runout personally.
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Old 20 July 2016, 13:30   #35
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40hp too small?

Honestly I will get it checked out once I figure it's leaking. I just need to get it fitted and running on the water.I have always tended to do things in the less conventional way. Drove my first car 66 mustang with no windshield for 60 miles on the I-5 freeway wearing a motorcycle helmet. Now some would never do this but I lived an hour from the windscreen place and didn't have the cash for the call out. It's crazy and unconventional but I was safe about it. That's where I tend to wanna be. I don't mind the weird looks but I do mind being adrift.
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Old 20 July 2016, 14:36   #36
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being adrift is probably not the best no, do what has been suggested, great chance it is okay and get on water.
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Old 20 July 2016, 16:47   #37
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Yeah I will do all the above in order of price from high to low . But it is an interesting topic.
How to be cheap and safe?
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Old 20 July 2016, 17:40   #38
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How to be cheap and safe?
Don't buy a boat for starters!
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Old 22 July 2016, 05:14   #39
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Hahaha ya think I would have learned that lesson when I bought my first sail boat off eBay.
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Old 06 August 2016, 06:45   #40
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40hp too small?

Ok so I checked the oil for the first time with out running it after it had been sitting for a week. The oil looks like this. I have read that some oils look like this. No water came out of the bottom drain hole just oil. I think this might be normal? Reason I have not replaced it yet is because the mechanics was waiting on the seals. Suzuki dealer took the week off.
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