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Old 03 July 2013, 14:41   #21
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You know I believe those trim tabs would work for you, however I still think the problem lies with the height of your outboard on the transom plate and the angle of the engine. Do you know what angle you have on the transom with engine fitted and the angle of the actual transom. A triangular wooden/plastic spacer between the transom and the engine COULD solve your problem, together with height in water, again, how much prop in the water. You should in theory have enough power! If you can't change those parameters, consider the trim tabs as suggested
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Old 03 July 2013, 14:51   #22
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ive got a couple of repairs im doing to the boat right now, but as soon as im done ill put the motor on and snap a couple of pictures of it.
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Old 03 July 2013, 15:40   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceejkay View Post
ive got a couple of repairs im doing to the boat right now, but as soon as im done ill put the motor on and snap a couple of pictures of it.
Cool, I had a 3.2 m Suzumar Alloy floor with Suzy DF 9.9 and struggled to keep it down at times. Look forward to seeing pics
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Old 03 July 2013, 16:52   #24
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Originally Posted by ceejkay View Post
has anyone ever used the trim tabs? in theory they should work, but do they actually work?
Lifters trim tabs for inflatables
They do work, and are fitted to pretty much every cruiser over 20ft but its almost impossible to tell if they will work in your case.

I have seen a rib with these that simply ploughed forward at hull speed but with the hull very flat rather than climbing on the plane.

If you can cope with the price, give them a go, what have you got to lose ?
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Old 06 July 2013, 20:18   #25
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heres some pics. if you need any other shots let me know




cavitation plate is about 1" lower than the bottom

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Old 06 July 2013, 20:59   #26
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couple more with a little better lighting

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Old 07 July 2013, 07:49   #27
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OK thanks for the pics. Two things I would try here initially. There is plenty room under your boat to raise the engine up a little without risk of disturbed water causing cavitation. If the top of your transom plate allows you to move it up, I would raise it by at least 1/2 to 1 inch, if need be, put a spacer on the top of the transom plate, then put your engine back on the transom. Also there is another hole left to trim in a little, so drop the trim into the last hole. This will give you the optimum performance for weight and load. That's trimming your engine and boat, you can also trim your load in the boat, so instead of sitting forward and back, try sitting side by side as close to the centre as you can (have you got a seat)? If this pushes you too far forward to operate the engine, add a throttle extension tube and elongate your kill cord (don't go too far forward). Keep the rest of your weight in the boat towards the rear to give you bow up in the water. This should help considerably, but if not try adding a fin plate to your outboard fins. With less load in the boat, be careful when you initially accelerate till you get used to the changes, although it should be fine. The changes will keep your boat down in the water, but will create a better planing position at higher revs. Be interested to hear how you get on
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Old 07 July 2013, 08:01   #28
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This was my Suzumar with 9.9 Suzuki - was trimmed right in with light load, but could trim out with heavier. You may find it best the way I said above, but note the person trimming with 4 in it. No problem planing with that load

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Old 07 July 2013, 10:37   #29
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ill have to drop it. with just me in the boat it planes out quick. or when i have my family in it, plane pretty quick as well. when in chop, which is normal here i have cavitation problems, so i wont raise the motor up. i might have to look at a different gas tank, the one i have is a transom mount and thats a pretty good amount of weight up high in the back.
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Old 07 July 2013, 10:59   #30
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Try this:

http://www.davisnet.com/marine/produ...asp?pnum=00440

Doel Fin
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