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Old 22 April 2013, 16:48   #21
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Keel guard

As the slip way at Liverpool Sailing Club is very long but not steep I thought it would be wise to get a stainless steel keel guard fabricated. 36 holes were drilled and then sifaflex applied into and around each hole, inside and outside edge of plate to create an effective seal. The screws (self tap marine grade stainless) were then tightened.
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Old 22 April 2013, 17:02   #22
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Time to spend some dosh :( (yorkshire men don't like this)

Well last week was expensive but had to be done in order for the project to move to the next stage!

Consoles have now arrived and look fantastic thanks to Mike Whitham Fibreglass

Engine (115Hp Optimax) now sourced and just waiting for a delivery date but thanks for Peter from Boats and Outboards with his help to date with this!

Now decision time and would appreciate peoples opinions. I have never seen this boat on water so don't even know it will float but from the work I have done on the hull everything appears to be ok however the next stage of the project is putting the expensive bits on. So its decision time when my choices are

1.) Just carry on with the project and assume it will float (hull looks ok with no obvious damage)

2.) fill the hull with water and see if it leaks. I imagine the excessive weight will put pressure on the hull where contacts with trailer rollers so not sure if this is a good idea.

3.) Launch the boat into the water for 1/2 hour and see if it float or fills with water

What do you reckon folks?
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Old 22 April 2013, 18:01   #23
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Option 1
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Old 22 April 2013, 18:04   #24
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I would carry on,you can't test till you get it moving through the water at speed anyway.just launching it won't really prove anything.even if it leaks it not going to go down like a brick.doing a good job keep at it.
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Old 23 April 2013, 01:54   #25
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.) Just carry on with the project and assume it will float (hull looks ok with no obvious damage)

Go for it it will float, (its a rib!) and it will go well with 'd' opti egg wisk on the back

appart from this as a first job its going well,
its a credit to you,
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Old 23 April 2013, 02:08   #26
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Thanks for your input and opinions everyone. My gut instinct was option 1 as I wouldn't to be able to test at speed.

Crack on it is then!!!
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Old 18 May 2013, 12:18   #27
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Next move

Not really an update (although I am due one) but some advice really

Just loosely put in the console in the boat today and as it is at the moment I have 1.9m from base of console to bilge / drain plug area near the transom. I have to fit 4 x jockey seats in this area as well as 120L fuel tank under the console so am worried that

a.) Boat is very stern heavy

b.) Not very much room for four passengers

So I am thinking of getting out the grinder to reduce the fillets / radius's on the corners and to reduce the flange width on the external flanges so I can get the console further forward by a another 6". However just a bit worried that the flanges are going to be in drains on the deck and also will my screws go through the hull as well as the deck when I screw down the consoles?

Appreciate everybody's thoughts and opinions

Thanks
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Old 18 May 2013, 13:43   #28
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I thought it would be tight with that console the destroyer is very narrow,

, I would cut flanges off on sides then glass in , or screw front and rear then just glass the sides, to seal up the console, personally i am not a great lover of screwing and silka flex it works well and is great if you ever want to remove it,

I sat 4 seat pods in mine and decided it did not look right so opted for centre seating only, I can bolt another two in the rear still plenty of room to do so, it's just so narrow up front,

Will measure up trunking outlet tomoz when I uncover it

Ed
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Old 19 May 2013, 06:38   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nugent View Post
I thought it would be tight with that console the destroyer is very narrow,

, I would cut flanges off on sides then glass in , or screw front and rear then just glass the sides, to seal up the console, personally i am not a great lover of screwing and silka flex it works well and is great if you ever want to remove it,

I sat 4 seat pods in mine and decided it did not look right so opted for centre seating only, I can bolt another two in the rear still plenty of room to do so, it's just so narrow up front,

Will measure up trunking outlet tomoz when I uncover it

Ed
300 mm back from the well,
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Old 19 May 2013, 16:36   #30
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Doh!

Cut the side flanges with a grinder today and its looks like the physical width of the moukld is too wide however I did gain an extra 10 - 15cms . Anyway I have got what I have got and thats 2m's to put in 4 x jockey seats so I will plod on / get on with it anyway!!!
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