Originally Posted by AndrewMK2GR
That is a really helpful diagram. Is the special tool only needed if the inner conical part of the valve is stuck and does not turn?
It looks to me like the triple-guard grease would be applied only to the conical metal mating surfaces. Should I also apply some rubber safe grease to the diaphragm and rubber seal inside the cap? I will have to stop by a boat shop on my way home to pick up a tube of that triple-guard grease.
That's a fun piece of trivia about Jacques Cousteau. I have a picture of his diving saucer set as the background for my computer's login screen.
Grease should only
be applied to the metal mating surfaces.
The rubber components should be washed with a light detergent (Dawn, Simple Green, 409) and reinstalled with nothing added. Silicone type greases may prematurely age the rubber and cause excess softening.
The puller is required if the flywheel does not move or if the flywheel is quite stiff. The old grease tends to vacuum the inner cup in place.
If you cannot remove the cup, DO NOT TRY TO PRY IT OUT. You WILL damage the cup. It is very soft metal. Find a Zodiac service center near you with the tool and pay them to yank it for you. Once it is pulled, simply maintain a regular service interval and you will never require the tool again. (The tool is about $180 or so, so it is not worthwhile for someone to purchase).
If you do not reset the nut to the same height, you will not damage the valve, but you will disable a hidden feature. The IC valves also act as an overpressure valve for that chamber. That's why there's a spring underneath the nut. If the pressure in the tube is enough, it pushes the inner cup up, and air seeps out around the base of the flywheel. If you pull out on the flywheel, it reproduces the same effect.