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Old 27 January 2015, 15:17   #11
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Thanks for all the pointers, I will follow them carefully. The one valve I looked at this morning before work seemed to turn ok; hopefully I will be as lucky with the others. I might be in trouble if I end up needing that special tool as I don't think there are any Zodiac dealers in Idaho and I was hoping to get this thing all serviced and ready for action before I transport it to my dad's place in California.
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Old 27 January 2015, 15:27   #12
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Originally Posted by AndrewMK2GR View Post
Thanks for all the pointers, I will follow them carefully. The one valve I looked at this morning before work seemed to turn ok; hopefully I will be as lucky with the others. I might be in trouble if I end up needing that special tool as I don't think there are any Zodiac dealers in Idaho and I was hoping to get this thing all serviced and ready for action before I transport it to my dad's place in California.
There's plenty of dealers in California. Do what you can until then, such as any gluing that is required, or fabrication.

My advice is to use a shopvac or vacuum on the blow setting for the initial blow up. If the boat has transitioned from a cold area to a warm area, before inflating, allow 12 hours for the material to acclimate before inflating.

The thrustboard in the bow does not look original. Please take many pictures along the transom, focusing on where the material overlaps, as well as of the thrustboard by the bow, and where the floor glues in place (on the inside and outside).

We'll help you as best as we can!
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Old 27 January 2015, 15:50   #13
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I will take pictures of those areas tonight after I have serviced the valves and inflated the boat. The boat did not come with a hand pump, is there a specific model that you would recommend?
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Old 27 January 2015, 16:05   #14
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Originally Posted by AndrewMK2GR View Post
I will take pictures of those areas tonight after I have serviced the valves and inflated the boat. The boat did not come with a hand pump, is there a specific model that you would recommend?
The Bravo 7 is the go-to pump for Zodiac brand inflatables that do not utilize a high pressure floor. It is a bellows-type foot pump.

For standard type boats, I use a shopvac for the bulk fill (high volume, very low pressure), then I top the boat off with a foot pump until firm (recommended is 3.4 psi).
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Old 27 January 2015, 23:23   #15
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I cleaned and re-greased the valves this evening; they now turn smoothly and seem to be working properly. After working on the valves I inflated the boat and gave it a once over. It held air fine and I could find no immediately apparent leaks. I found no seams that felt loose or that had edges peeling (other than those listed below).

I inspected the glue joints on the thrust board and found them to be in poor shape. I could probably peel the flaps off of it by hand. I think I will need to remove the thrust board, refinish it, clean the flaps, and then glue it all back together. Are there any tips or tricks for this job that I should be aware of? What glue is recommended for this repair? Is any marine varnish acceptable for refinishing the thrust board?

I also inspected the glue joints at the transom. I think that they are in overall good shape, with 2 exceptions. The pieces of material with velcro on them on either side are loose and will need to be reglued. The inside seam on the starboard side has some loose edges, but they are not nearly as loose as the flaps on the thrust board are. Can I just reglue these edges down? The transom could also use a new coat of varnish, is any marine varnish acceptable?
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Old 27 January 2015, 23:24   #16
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(more pictures)
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Old 28 January 2015, 10:28   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewMK2GR View Post
I cleaned and re-greased the valves this evening; they now turn smoothly and seem to be working properly. After working on the valves I inflated the boat and gave it a once over. It held air fine and I could find no immediately apparent leaks. I found no seams that felt loose or that had edges peeling (other than those listed below).

I inspected the glue joints on the thrust board and found them to be in poor shape. I could probably peel the flaps off of it by hand. I think I will need to remove the thrust board, refinish it, clean the flaps, and then glue it all back together. Are there any tips or tricks for this job that I should be aware of? What glue is recommended for this repair? Is any marine varnish acceptable for refinishing the thrust board?

I also inspected the glue joints at the transom. I think that they are in overall good shape, with 2 exceptions. The pieces of material with velcro on them on either side are loose and will need to be reglued. The inside seam on the starboard side has some loose edges, but they are not nearly as loose as the flaps on the thrust board are. Can I just reglue these edges down? The transom could also use a new coat of varnish, is any marine varnish acceptable?
I would not recommend ungluing the thrustboard. It is a very labor intensive procedure to glue it back in properly. Not to mention that due to the age of the boat, when you go to unglue things, rather than ungluing, the hypalon may separate between the layers leaving cord structure and neoprene backer behind.

Any marine grade polyurethane type varnish is acceptable. I tend to gravitate towards Interlux products. Service manuals typically recommend 3 coats.

I would recommend washing the vessel. It would also give you time to check for leaks. Dawn Dishsoap or Simple Green are okay.

For reglue, Weaver Industries is in Rathdrum, ID. They sell adhesive. :
Weaver Industries, Inc.: HYPALON GLUE KIT

It is recanned Bostik 2402 if I remember properly.

It would be wise to water test the boat.

Add the drain plug and fill it up with water like a bathtub. It helps to block up the bow, most of the water leaks occur at the transom. About 4 inches of water is enough. The water weight will cause water to squirt out wherever a leak is. If there are no leaks, then simply empty the water. If there are leaks, they can be sealed by regluing loose material or in the case of small leaks, with 3M 4200, Sikaflex, or similar PU type caulks.

Keep in mind that water and glue/caulk are not compatible. Allow the boat to dry before starting repairs.
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Old 28 January 2015, 11:29   #18
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I will order some of that glue.

Would you recommend I just leave the flaps that are glued to the thrust board alone? Should I try to re-glue the edges that are coming up? The glue joints on the thrust board feel much weaker than all of the other joints on the boat that I inspected.

I forgot to note last night that the part of the keel forward of the thrust board is unlgued from the floor. From the thrust board back to the transom it is still glued down. I am assuming it should be fine to just glue it back down where it has come up?

I plan to wash the boat and try that water test as soon as it is warm enough outside for me to do so. By the time I am home from work and have time to work on the boat it is usually below freezing, so I can't just drag it out onto the lawn and hose it off. Hopefully I will be able to do that this weekend.

Will a 15hp outboard move this boat acceptably? I will be beach launching so I want an outboard that is easy for me to carry from my car out onto the beach, but still able to move the boat with 4 guys in it. There are a couple of 80's vintage Evinrude/Johnson 2 stroke outboards for sale in my area that are reasonably cheap and look pretty compact and lightweight.
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Old 28 January 2015, 12:36   #19
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I like the look of the custom plywood floor shown in this post:
Zodiac G470 f470 fc470

i'm not sure from those pictures if the joint between the main floor section and the bow section is supposed to be right at the point where the boat begins to taper or if it is on top of the thrust board. Does anyone know where it should be? Based on some pictures (attached to this post) from a Zodiac manual found on this forum it looks like only the main rectangular portion of the floor needs to be rigid. I am also not sure of the exact dimensions needed for the floor; I thought I read somewhere that the floor should be slightly larger than the measured dimension in the boat to provide a very tight fit. Does this sound right? Does anyone have a Zodiac mk2 floor they could provide me with some overall dimensions from?
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Old 28 January 2015, 13:37   #20
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grand raid

The keels in those boats are not glued down the entire length. They are only usually glued in two or three spots about four inches long. The front two feet is usually not attached at all.
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