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Old 23 April 2010, 00:16   #21
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Here are some pictures of the engine...







There is no kill cord with this engine but I assume you can buy ones that will fit over/around this switch?













The tiller is also very stiff, would this just need lubricating to improve?

Sorry about the large amount of pictures!
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Old 24 April 2010, 06:33   #22
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The pictures are good - very detailed. Judging by the serial plate, this is a 40M (1988) model. See reference guide here. http://www.storesonline.com/site/573683/page/608047

The tiller handle can be lubricated with a good marine grease such as Duckhams. The fuel filter on the engine could do with a clean, definately needs a new starter rope, and new sparks. Goes without saying - to get the impeller changed. Are you sure it's an oil leak from the gearbox? Could just be the propeller shaft has been greased and you're seeing tell-tale oil marks in the water. One way to check - when the gear box oil is drained, it should be dirtier than new Yamlube gear oil, but definately not emulsified. If it's creamy in colour then there's water getting into the gearbox which isn't good. To double-check, place in a jar and leave. The water will seperate overnight. Could be as simple as a new waterpump gasket, oil seal, etc. There are kits available to rebuild.
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Old 24 April 2010, 12:41   #23
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Cheers for the link, quite useful information there.

I ment to put a link to the picture of the oil leak in the previous post, but here it is ...



Looks like oil to me but it hasn't emulsfied, this could simply be because the engine hasnt been in the water much. Think it will need new seals/gaskets and a new pull rope.
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Old 24 April 2010, 15:19   #24
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Hi Roody<

You can get kill cords for this engine from any Yamaha dealer. The fitting is basically a small plastic figure 8 -, one hoop for the kill cord tether, the larger hoop for the kill switch. When the switch is in the 'run' position the hoop is held in place by the switch entrapping the hoop against the motor housing. If the hoop is yanked free from that position, it flips the kill switch to the 'off' position.
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Old 24 April 2010, 15:37   #25
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Hi,

Thanks for that, I did search on google and found the mercury/mariner kill switches were as you described. I thought that would be how they worked, thanks for clearing it up for me.

Nice illustration by the way :P
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Old 24 April 2010, 20:15   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roody262 View Post
Cheers for the link, quite useful information there.

I ment to put a link to the picture of the oil leak in the previous post, but here it is ...



Looks like oil to me but it hasn't emulsfied, this could simply be because the engine hasnt been in the water much. Think it will need new seals/gaskets and a new pull rope.
Boy that oil is black. Looks like you've drained the sump on a V8 Chevy that's just been liberated from a barn! Definately get that looked at.
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Old 24 April 2010, 20:26   #27
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i reckon that the oil may be just whats dripped down from inside the exaust mixed with fuel trying to start on full choke or been flooded and its brought soot deposits with it or someone has gone overboard with the wd40 inside the leg ,, gearbox needs checking anyhow ,,who knows though ,,it could be old engine oil in the box .


from past experience when cleaning the fuel filter/bowl ,,with an older engine the plastic hose ends go brittle and can snap off if you are trying to unscrew the bowl ,,its sometimes safer to unbolt the filter/ bowl from the engine compleatly and then try uncrewing the bowl,
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Old 25 April 2010, 20:16   #28
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i reckon that the oil may be just whats dripped down from inside the exaust mixed with fuel trying to start on full choke or been flooded and its brought soot deposits with it or someone has gone overboard with the wd40 inside the leg ,, gearbox needs checking anyhow ,,who knows though ,,it could be old engine oil in the box .


from past experience when cleaning the fuel filter/bowl ,,with an older engine the plastic hose ends go brittle and can snap off if you are trying to unscrew the bowl ,,its sometimes safer to unbolt the filter/ bowl from the engine compleatly and then try uncrewing the bowl,
Would be very interested to know what it is. I do hope it's not engine oil in the gear box. Agree regards the fuel filter bowl - good tip.
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Old 26 April 2010, 07:04   #29
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Interesting project to read about roody. I have a Mariner 20hp of the same era as yours on my grp boat and it has proved fast & reliable. Mine is an '86 and I see from the serial number shown in one image yours is a 1988. Be very interesting to see what you find with that oil eak... it looks black as paint and as others have said can only come from the gearbox if it was put in there that colour.

Mine is normally bolted to the boat with remotes but I had it off in 2009 for a service. I'd not noticed when it was on remotes but mine was very stiff to turn (steer) and it took loads of grease pumped into the nipple/s on the main swivel plus lots of swinging the outboard from side to side.
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Old 29 April 2010, 21:13   #30
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It's going to be a little while yet before we sort this engine out or get it sorted out as I am at uni untill mid june and my dad is busy with work. Will be around the start of the summer we will get it prepared for many hours of (fingers crossed) reliable fun in the great british sunshine this summer!

Will be interesting to see what the deal is with the gearbox oil as you say it is very, very black. I will keep this thread updated the story about this engine.

Dan
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Old 29 April 2010, 21:26   #31
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i reckon that the oil may be just whats dripped down from inside the exaust mixed with fuel trying to start on full choke or been flooded and its brought soot deposits with it or someone has gone overboard with the wd40 inside the leg ,, gearbox needs checking anyhow ,,who knows though ,,it could be old engine oil in the box .
It looks like sooty leg crap to me too. Still needs making certain though as others said.
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Old 02 May 2010, 23:32   #32
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i love my mk3 GR

johnson 40long with two people did 24mph via magellian gps

with 3 scuba tanks and two sets of gear and two people, it did 23.5mph via garmin gps, with a slower prop

I want a 50hp

you should realise that the tubes measure LOWER than the center of the transom:::meaning that when the boat gets up on top of the water the transom raises out of the water, mine measure about 1 1/2 inches difference, if you think your transom measures 15" and your new motor measures 18",,,you should be happy when you finally get it in the water
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Old 01 November 2014, 13:53   #33
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i am looking for the bow board for a grand raid
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Old 01 November 2014, 14:48   #34
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i am looking for the bow board for a grand raid
You may want to state the size mate.

A good wood shop can make one from your old one as a pattern. Gluing it in to spec will be harder, but very doable if ya take your time and use good spec glue.

Cheers, Squid
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Old 01 November 2014, 14:51   #35
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thanks what king of good glue ????
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Old 01 November 2014, 14:58   #36
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thanks what king of good glue ????
Go to a Zodi dealer and get their mil spec one for hapalon#7098

Cheers,
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Old 01 November 2014, 15:01   #37
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I some times remove the floor skin to do this, the area is a bitch to remove old glue and prep.

Cheers
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Old 01 November 2014, 17:40   #38
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I some times remove the floor skin to do this, the area is a bitch to remove old glue and prep.

Cheers
Huh? Are you talking about removing the floor fabric? I am probably missing something.

Yiannis50, do you have the original bow board? It would make a great pattern. If not you will need to find the measurements or just buy one from Zodiac.

As to glue...epoxy. With the right tools and a pattern it would be pretty easy to make for a woodworker.

Wonder if the OP ever got to enjoy their boat?
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Old 01 November 2014, 22:09   #39
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Huh? Are you talking about removing the floor fabric? I am probably missing something.

Yiannis50, do you have the original bow board? It would make a great pattern. If not you will need to find the measurements or just buy one from Zodiac.

As to glue...epoxy. With the right tools and a pattern it would be pretty easy to make for a woodworker.

Wonder if the OP ever got to enjoy their boat?
Yeah on my thrust boardn (Avon CRRC) removing the front part off the floor skin gave me great assess to grind of the old glue and glue and clamp the new board.

Cheers
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Old 06 November 2014, 10:50   #40
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Does the inlatable killl has to be glue on the buttom, (what king of glue???? )
Thanks`
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