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Old 08 April 2010, 07:52   #11
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 60hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
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Posts: 3,268
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Where would be the best place to get hold of the diaphragm valves? A local Zodiac dealer or contact Zodiac directly? Do you have the part numbers by any chance? Wish I had to boat in front of me to play around with to get my head around how it all works!
Speak to main dealer. That's how zodiac work anyway. Cap seal is Z2213 and diaphragm is Z2195, Best to double-check with your make and model of your boat before ordering. Knowing Zodiac it won't be cheap, even for rubber inserts.

Here's a couple of useful links. http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?im...:1&um=1&itbs=1

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?im...:1&um=1&itbs=1
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Old 08 April 2010, 08:39   #12
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Country: UK - England
Town: NE
Boat name: RedGazelle
Make: Gemini GRX420 SIB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 40 2s
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff_Jubb View Post
Very nice mate! You must be pleased as punch.

I was removing glue from my boat at the weekend and used a paint remover attachment for your drill. It was an absolute godsend! It is like a scotchbrite pad. I tried to find it in the tool section but couldn't and found it by mistake in the paint section.
Go steady with it though, as it can get quite hot.
Its in this thread... http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?p=346866#post346866

What is the piece on the back with thumb screws?
Cheers,
Geoff
Another, less abrasive glue removal method is to use glue from a hot glue gun.

Melt the glue gun glue into a block and use it like a rubber, once it cools. No idea why it works, but it does the trick on old glue with less risk of damaging hypalon.

Ed
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Old 08 April 2010, 08:57   #13
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Country: UK - England
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url=http://www.phpbb.com/]Visit phpBB![/url]

Cheers guys, I think at the moment the valve diaphragms are in ok condition, they dont leak air as far as i know. Unfortunately the boat isn't kept at our house, wish I had it here so I could test all this advice I've been given.

We're still hunting for an engine, we originally thought the boat took a long shaft engine but after measuring the transom and looking at diagrams it appears (to me anyway) that it takes a short shaft engine.

The diagram of the boat from the Zodiacmilpro website show the boat with a different shaped transom to ours. If you look Here the green line shows the outline of the transom. The shape of ours is different to that and is the same as this. The specification of the second boat I guess is just another version of the GR MK3. Would I be right in sayin that my boat would therefore be a short shaft?
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Old 11 April 2010, 09:46   #14
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Country: UK - England
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Best Advice i can give is to give chas newens marine in putney a ring ask to speak to julie who deals with all our zodiac enquiries we should have everything you require in stock and we also have 2 MK 3 GR sitting on the shop floor about to be dispatched so she will be able to give you the advice you need

J

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Old 11 April 2010, 17:02   #15
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Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
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Originally Posted by roody262 View Post
Cheers guys, I think at the moment the valve diaphragms are in ok condition, they dont leak air as far as i know. Unfortunately the boat isn't kept at our house, wish I had it here so I could test all this advice I've been given.

We're still hunting for an engine, we originally thought the boat took a long shaft engine but after measuring the transom and looking at diagrams it appears (to me anyway) that it takes a short shaft engine.

The diagram of the boat from the Zodiacmilpro website show the boat with a different shaped transom to ours. If you look Here the green line shows the outline of the transom. The shape of ours is different to that and is the same as this. The specification of the second boat I guess is just another version of the GR MK3. Would I be right in sayin that my boat would therefore be a short shaft?
Best check transom and shaft length proper before you buy an engine,with some large inflatables,,and i am not saying yours is ,, it may have what appears to be a short transom,,even when measured ,, but when up on the plane owing to the underwater profile of a large deep keel you may find it did need a longshaft as a short may airate cavitate when turning .
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Old 12 April 2010, 19:46   #16
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We have now bought an engine, a old (mid 90's I would say) Mariner 40hp from ebay. The shaft length is 18" so a mid lenght. From looking at the diagram in the two links to the specifications on the zodiac website, I am quite confident the boat in designed for a short shaft engine.

Think we will see how the engine measures up on the boat and if needs be adapt the transom to lift the engine so its positioned correctly.

This is the engine we have bought, we will be picking it up one evening this week.
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Old 13 April 2010, 13:25   #17
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 60hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
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Originally Posted by roody262 View Post
We have now bought an engine, a old (mid 90's I would say) Mariner 40hp from ebay. The shaft length is 18" so a mid lenght. From looking at the diagram in the two links to the specifications on the zodiac website, I am quite confident the boat in designed for a short shaft engine.

Think we will see how the engine measures up on the boat and if needs be adapt the transom to lift the engine so its positioned correctly.

This is the engine we have bought, we will be picking it up one evening this week.
A solid enough engine. First thing to do is get it serviced. Either do it yourself or put it to a dealer. This includes: New impeller and gear oil, new starter rope, new sparks, grease nipple points, clean thermostat and housing, check and adjust linkages, clean fuel filter (on engine) renew split-pin on propeller, check torque on flywheel nut. Run in tank to test, etc. It'll give you complete peace of mind and is money well spent.
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Old 13 April 2010, 16:04   #18
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Originally Posted by Ed the Duck View Post
Another, less abrasive glue removal method is to use glue from a hot glue gun.

Melt the glue gun glue into a block and use it like a rubber, once it cools. No idea why it works, but it does the trick on old glue with less risk of damaging hypalon.
Ed: Have you tried using the glue stick directly in something like a draftsman's electric eraser (though I suspect the eraser wouldn't last long... Maybe just an electric drill?)

jky
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Old 15 April 2010, 21:56   #19
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grand raid

The transoms have changed over the years on the grand raids. Many of the older boats were short shaft transoms. In the past few years they have changed over to Long Shaft transoms.
Your boat is a 2003 built in February of 2003 shown by the "B" which represents the month it was built. You should NOT use MEk to remove the old glue. MEK is not good for hypalon. try either Acetone or ethyl acetate as these works much better and will not harm the fabric. Good luck with the new boat, they are a blast.
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Old 22 April 2010, 19:20   #20
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Thanks everyone for the information. I'm quite sure that the boat we have is intended for a short shaft engine.

We have now got the engine home and it seems in fair condition to me for it's age, not sure exactly what year it is. I have taken some pictures of the engine which I will post up soon.

Although the advert for the engine stated it had been serviced last year and hardly used it will be getting proper service before the summer, either my myself or a dealer depending on how "hands on" I am feeling. There is an oil leak coming from behind the prop, I'm guessing this is gearbox oil.

I cannot wait till the summer to try this boat out!
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