Zodiac FC470 Project

[SIBRider]

It's ok for diaphragms to leak somewhat. I have 2 new inserts (didn't have them at all) they don't leak. 2 old ones leak. Caps seal them nicely. You can swap them so you will have one on each side leaking. Ha, ha.

[Sheldon N]

Yes, a couple of mine will let a small amount of air out when I pull the valve cap to inflate the boat. It's just a flapper valve, nothing super airtight. I left the cap off one of the chambers overnight (one of the ones that DIDN'T have an audible leak) and it was still flat in the morning.

[F470]

I fixed mine by cleaning the bailer valve diaphragms and putting a little bit of marine grease on them. Now they all seal properly!

[Sheldon N]

Nice! I should do that to mine one of these days.

[F470]

Also grease the threads on the caps. That way they won't seize up.

[seanavent]

I juts picked up an F470 an it needs a bit of help. I've been able to disassemble all but one of the IC valves and plan on buffing and greasing them up nicely. but the fourth one is corroded in there good and is bent a bit to boot so that I can't even screw in the valve. Do you thin I can bend it back or do you think I ought to just buy a new inner brass cone once I get this one out? Any chance that anyone knows where to get a replacement inner cone?

Secondly, one of my over pressure valves is missing. anyone know where to get a replacement, or come up with an alternate way to seal it? Maybe just a plug with the right threading? I was also thinking of just patching over it with 2-part hypalon glue and a d-ring patch.

Thanks in advance for any help! Looking forward to getting her out on the bay and in the pacific for some diving.

Sean

[F470]

Have you tried to apply liquid wrench to the seized valve?

You probably won't find replacement parts anywhere but an authorized Zodiac dealer and they're not cheap. That's said I suggest you replace all the necessary parts and buy a new relief valve. Whatever you do don't patch over it. They're there for a reason.

[Sheldon N]

On the seized valve, I'd bet that it's the cap/handle that's bent and not the actual brass cone since that part is quite heavy duty. Have you tried using a couple large flat bladed screwdrivers to pop the valve straight out? On mine that was the only way to get it to come loose. Just be careful what you pry against on the aluminum cap portion. I made sure to wedge the screwdrivers in against the sturdiest part of the handle right next to the brass material so as not to bend them. It took a bit of work to wiggle the screwdriver into place, and it wasn't until I got one on each side that it finally popped loose.

[office888]

They will audibly leak air between the chambers if the pressures are unequal. The IC valves do not offer a perfect seal since there are no elastomer gaskets to seal the ports ; only brass-on-brass.

But, spray down the whole valve assembly with soapy water? One of mine is leaking around the entire valve...I need to get a huge spanner so I can yank the valve assembly and replace that neoprene gasket.

Also, replace your valve gaskets.

[seanavent]

I finally got the brass cone out of the IC valve. Plenty of liquid wrench penetrating lubricant and a finally light application of heat broke it loose. It was just corroded in there good. Based on what I see with it, the PO dropped something on it or hammered away at it to get it out. So that the circle for the valve insert is now an oval and I can't screw the inner valve in.

I did find a source for a replacement IC valve body. They only want $777... Ha!!!!!! I think I'm going to take it to a machine shop and see if they can't do something. Maybe machine it out and install an insert that would hold the inner valve. It's got to be cheaper than $700.

I did clean the valve up and grease it. As long as I keep it in the navigate position, no air leaks out. It's usable, but not ideal.

[office888]

That's one thing I learned by working with SCUBA regulators, which are also brass: With regard to torque, less is more.

My IC cups, I removed them, polished them on a bench polisher with rouge, then threw'em back in with some Coastal Marine Grease. I can spin the flywheels with one finger now.

Nothing sticks or corrodes against shiny, smooth surfaces.

[F470]

Ok so don't follow my advice. The marine grease will degrade/melt the rubber. Now I have to get new seals and diaphragms. Anyone have a good (cheap) source to order new ones?

Originally Posted by F470

I fixed mine by cleaning the bailer valve diaphragms and putting a little bit of marine grease on them. Now they all seal properly!

[office888]

Originally Posted by F470

Ok so don't follow my advice. The marine grease will degrade/melt the rubber. Now I have to get new seals and diaphragms. Anyone have a good (cheap) source to order new ones?

Silicone grease is an acceptable grease for rubber components. Dow Corning MCG 111 is preferred. It prevents premature oxidization of neoprene rubber surfaces...most of your traditional black rubbers are neoprene. It'll work on hypalon too BUT USE SPARINGLY, DO NOT USE ON GLUED SURFACES.

I use a tiny bit of silicone grease on the valve cap seals, valve o-rings, and on the self bailers. TINY bit. You should have NO excess with the o-ring left glossy.

[F470]

Thanks Richard!

It was the FC-470 Valve Diaphragm in particular that seem to have softened/melted. Is the Valve Diaphragm silicone? It appears to be regular rubber. I will try silicone grease. Do you sell seals and gaskets for the FC-470?

[office888]

Originally Posted by F470

Thanks Richard!

It was the FC-470 Valve Diaphragm in particular that seem to have softened/melted. Is the Valve Diaphragm silicone? It appears to be regular rubber. I will try silicone grease. Do you sell seals and gaskets for the FC-470?

The inlet valves have three primary rubber components:

The lid gasket.
The sealing o-ring.
The one-way valve.

All three of these components are neoprene (chloroprene) rubber. They should be coated with a light coating of Dow Corning 111 or similar silicone grease. Silicone grease should be available at your local Dive Shop.

Lid Gasket : PN Z2213
One Way Valve : PN Z2195

The sealing o-ring can be replaced by a Buna-N 70 duro o-ring, size 213. You can purchase this from your local o-ring supplier, such as Martin Fluid Power. Or, if you want to pay a 10,000% markup, it is PN 2212.

Also, disregard the "MCG 111"...That references a perfluoropolyether grease by Christolube for O2 clean systems. It is Dow Corning 111 you'd want if you want the brand name silicone grease.

Check your local recreational Zodiac dealer. They should have the Z2213 and Z2195 in stock.

[cgoing]

Never use any grease on the gaskets or O rings on any inflatable. The only place for grease is inside the brass portion of the I/C valves. Grease attracts dirt and grit and then you will lose your seal. As far as the valves go their is a factory setting for those valves for proper seal. Too tight or too loose and they will have problems.

[Sheldon N]

So I discovered what can happen when you pound the crap out of the boat on choppy water.... the rubber tube connecting the main tube to the speed tube can work its way off the fitting and instantly deflate the boat. Yikes!

Thank goodness for interconnect valves and that I had the emergency clamps for the rubber tubes. It also helped that my buddy Grant had his pump with him.

Time to get myself some hose clamps!

[SIBRider]

Hi, Sheldon.
Was it you today at Sand Island? It was nice to see another black boat!

[Sheldon N]

Yep, that was me. I thought I recognized your boat out there! We're doing a little camping on sand island tonight, the weather is perfect for it.

[SIBRider]

We were heading home after night there. Nice to have almost entire island to yourself.