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Old 05 December 2013, 17:42   #31
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That's one thing I learned by working with SCUBA regulators, which are also brass: With regard to torque, less is more.

My IC cups, I removed them, polished them on a bench polisher with rouge, then threw'em back in with some Coastal Marine Grease. I can spin the flywheels with one finger now.

Nothing sticks or corrodes against shiny, smooth surfaces.
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Old 26 May 2014, 11:49   #32
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Ok so don't follow my advice. The marine grease will degrade/melt the rubber. Now I have to get new seals and diaphragms. Anyone have a good (cheap) source to order new ones?

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I fixed mine by cleaning the bailer valve diaphragms and putting a little bit of marine grease on them. Now they all seal properly!
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Old 26 May 2014, 15:07   #33
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Ok so don't follow my advice. The marine grease will degrade/melt the rubber. Now I have to get new seals and diaphragms. Anyone have a good (cheap) source to order new ones?
Silicone grease is an acceptable grease for rubber components. Dow Corning MCG 111 is preferred. It prevents premature oxidization of neoprene rubber surfaces...most of your traditional black rubbers are neoprene. It'll work on hypalon too BUT USE SPARINGLY, DO NOT USE ON GLUED SURFACES.

I use a tiny bit of silicone grease on the valve cap seals, valve o-rings, and on the self bailers. TINY bit. You should have NO excess with the o-ring left glossy.
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Old 26 May 2014, 20:19   #34
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Thanks Richard!

It was the FC-470 Valve Diaphragm in particular that seem to have softened/melted. Is the Valve Diaphragm silicone? It appears to be regular rubber. I will try silicone grease. Do you sell seals and gaskets for the FC-470?
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Old 26 May 2014, 21:04   #35
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Thanks Richard!

It was the FC-470 Valve Diaphragm in particular that seem to have softened/melted. Is the Valve Diaphragm silicone? It appears to be regular rubber. I will try silicone grease. Do you sell seals and gaskets for the FC-470?
The inlet valves have three primary rubber components:

The lid gasket.
The sealing o-ring.
The one-way valve.

All three of these components are neoprene (chloroprene) rubber. They should be coated with a light coating of Dow Corning 111 or similar silicone grease. Silicone grease should be available at your local Dive Shop.

Lid Gasket : PN Z2213
One Way Valve : PN Z2195

The sealing o-ring can be replaced by a Buna-N 70 duro o-ring, size 213. You can purchase this from your local o-ring supplier, such as Martin Fluid Power. Or, if you want to pay a 10,000% markup, it is PN 2212.

Also, disregard the "MCG 111"...That references a perfluoropolyether grease by Christolube for O2 clean systems. It is Dow Corning 111 you'd want if you want the brand name silicone grease.

Check your local recreational Zodiac dealer. They should have the Z2213 and Z2195 in stock.
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Old 28 May 2014, 21:40   #36
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Never use any grease on the gaskets or O rings on any inflatable. The only place for grease is inside the brass portion of the I/C valves. Grease attracts dirt and grit and then you will lose your seal. As far as the valves go their is a factory setting for those valves for proper seal. Too tight or too loose and they will have problems.
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Old 07 July 2014, 19:18   #37
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So I discovered what can happen when you pound the crap out of the boat on choppy water.... the rubber tube connecting the main tube to the speed tube can work its way off the fitting and instantly deflate the boat. Yikes!

Thank goodness for interconnect valves and that I had the emergency clamps for the rubber tubes. It also helped that my buddy Grant had his pump with him.

Time to get myself some hose clamps!
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Old 18 August 2014, 00:59   #38
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Hi, Sheldon.
Was it you today at Sand Island? It was nice to see another black boat!
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Old 18 August 2014, 01:13   #39
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Yep, that was me. I thought I recognized your boat out there! We're doing a little camping on sand island tonight, the weather is perfect for it.
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Old 18 August 2014, 12:38   #40
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We were heading home after night there. Nice to have almost entire island to yourself.
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