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Old 22 July 2009, 10:40   #1
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Zodiac Fastroller - replacing a valve?

I have a Zodiac Fastroller 3.4 and one of the tube valves doesn't hold air. Is replacing this an easy job or is it best done by a dealer?

If it is easily done is there any tutorials or guides online that any knows about?

Thanks
flyguy
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Old 23 July 2009, 00:19   #2
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You'll need a special extraction / insertion tool to replace the valve. 60 second job. New Zodiac valves should cost around 5 pounds.

Usually the problem is just grit getting caught around the rubber membrane. Use a soft brush to help remove any gunk.

Might be worth buying a cheap hand pump pressure sprayer, fill it with a little dishwashing liquid and the rest with water. Pump up the boat to max pressure and spray the boat. Any small holes / bleeds will show in around 3 minutes. Larger holes, you'll be able to hear the hissing sound.
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Old 24 July 2009, 00:08   #3
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FYI

Tool

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Old 24 July 2009, 07:30   #4
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I might be missing some detail here but why not just use the valve cap to un screw the inner valve? It engages the inner valve then you just turn it anti clockwise, I have replace all 3 main valves using this method, none were that tight.
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Old 28 July 2009, 17:29   #5
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Thanks for the advice. I will try this at the weekend.
Cheers
John
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Old 01 August 2009, 11:47   #6
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UPDATE:

Err... I was being really dumb. The zodiac valves have a twist lock on the valve so you can lock them open to deflate. This is the green knob in the centre of the valve. I had it in the open position.... doh.
It doesn't mention this in the manual?

BTW.. to remove the black centre valve you just need to unscew it with a pair of pliers.
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Old 23 May 2016, 09:59   #7
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I am just bumping this because I have replaced the valve inserts on my Zodiac Futura and ruined the first set. Do not simply push the new insert into place and then screw it up tight: the reason that they are difficult to push into place is that you are forcing the diaphragm through a hole which is smaller than the diaphragm and causes pinching of its edges between the plunger disc and the hole, with the result that it deforms and doesn't seal properly. You either need to tuck the edges of the diaphragm in against the plunger in 4 places, so that it is smaller in diameter than the plunger (which just fits through the hole) or use a tool like the above which has slots long enough to allow the end of the tool to touch the diaphragm (through the plunger) and pucker it into a cone shape during insertion. I made one out of an old alu tent pole using an angle grinder but didn't have long enough slots the first time. Incidentally, it is impossible to remove the insert on my valve using the cap, as the only engagement between the 2 is via the o-ring seal on the cap, which I also replaced. You can easily make a tool for removing the outer valve body by cutting 12 shallow slots in the end of a silicone sealant tube or cartridge.
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