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Old 24 September 2017, 14:12   #1
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Zodiac 2250 Hypalon cone replacement

Hi, I have saved an old hypalon Zodiac 2250 from the 1970's from the dump. The rubber cone on the back of the port tube is dead. I have sourced new cones but does anyone have any experience replacing cones? Looks like a tricky job. I have no experience of repairing hypalon. Any tips?
Also does anyone have experience of the valves of that period which seem to fill the side tubes and the bow tube at the same time which you turn to "navigation" to lock them off. Maybe this is standard but I am new to sibs.
Thanks
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Old 24 September 2017, 14:16   #2
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Hi, I have saved an old hypalon Zodiac 2250 from the 1970's from the dump. The rubber cone on the back of the port tube is dead. I have sourced new cones but does anyone have any experience replacing cones? Looks like a tricky job. I have no experience of repairing hypalon. Any tips?
Also does anyone have experience of the valves of that period which seem to fill the side tubes and the bow tube at the same time which you turn to "navigation" to lock them off. Maybe this is standard but I am new to sibs.
Thanks
The cone will take a professional to replace.

The valves though, you just need some zodiac z2846 inserts and z2847 caps.

For approximate adjustment of the intercommunciating valve cup, seat the nut, then back it off by two turns.
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Old 24 September 2017, 15:02   #3
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Richard, thanks for the advice. For the valves, I have the old caps and inserts, should I replace them even if they seem ok? When you say seat the nut, do you mean tighten it up say finger tight (with a socket on an extension bar). Finally I greased the cup with some lithium grease to improve airtightness. Is that a good idea? Thanks
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Old 25 September 2017, 03:23   #4
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Cone end repair can be done. More details here: Zodiac GR 2 repairs
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Old 25 September 2017, 13:56   #5
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Originally Posted by Oilystairs View Post
Richard, thanks for the advice. For the valves, I have the old caps and inserts, should I replace them even if they seem ok? When you say seat the nut, do you mean tighten it up say finger tight (with a socket on an extension bar). Finally I greased the cup with some lithium grease to improve airtightness. Is that a good idea? Thanks
Yes, greasing is recommended.

Also yes, tighten until the nut stops, then loosen by 2 turns.

See below, documentation for servicing the intercommunicating valves you will find useful.

1985 Service, IC valve_Page_1 by anirich888, on Flickr

1985 Service, IC valve_Page_2 by anirich888, on Flickr

1985 Service, IC valve_Page_3 by anirich888, on Flickr

1985 Service, IC valve_Page_5 by anirich888, on Flickr
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Old 26 September 2017, 02:52   #6
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Many thanks to Office888 and Spartacus. Very helpful information
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Old 01 October 2017, 21:16   #7
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Now is there a way to adjust the arrow so it points true? I used a sharpie to mark the 100% open and 100% closed
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Old 01 October 2017, 21:41   #8
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It is hard to get the arrow 100% set on 12 o'clock position to be fully open and 6 o clock fully closed. can be off by a small amount based on how exact positioning is of components internally in the tube.
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Old 02 October 2017, 10:11   #9
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Hi again, I removed the cone from the tube using a heat gun and a blunt screwdriver to ease open the seam. The new ones I sourced fit well. One question though; on the inside of the tube, the main seams and the cone were glued normally and the seam overlaps are bonded using what looks like sikaflex caulk/mastic. Does anyone have any idea how to remove this as the heat doesn't seem to soften it much. I'll post a photo
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Old 02 October 2017, 10:12   #10
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This is a photo if the inside of the old cone showing the white caulk
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