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Old 13 September 2015, 12:26   #21
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Country: UK - England
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My bolts didnt go through the plate but its close and the nut just catches the edge.
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Old 17 September 2015, 19:03   #22
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Just to tidy this thread up...

I've fitted the Trems in spare moments over the past couple of days.

Decided I would relocate the serial number and data plates to avoid them being drilled through or part obscured. What a pig to get them off. The serial number plate was glued and pinned so pulled paint off down to the timber which needed the edges feathering and then repainting.

The stainless pins that held both plates on were impossible to get out so I ended up pulling the soft alloy plates off the pins. This was achieved with surprisingly little damage to the plate's securing holes.

I punched the pin heads just below the timber face and filled the small depressions. Rather than just making good locally this cemented a thought I'd had... to give the whole transom two coats of satin black as the Zodiac paint is a bit thin.

I'm happy to admit to being a bit OCD about getting stuff right where it probably doesn't matter that much...so to get the legs upright I set the boat up with a level on the transom then used a shorter vertical level against the legs. I used a large G-clamp to hold the brackets in position until they were spot on and then drilled through (8mm) the bolt holes while they were held in place.

Of course the height was pre-determined by the lugs that engage on the bottom buttons that are pre-fitted on the Aerotec from new. It was just that they were upright and that the bottom button was fully engaged that needed checking.

Note from the image of the wheel swinging up in the next post it only just clears the cone... a short cone at that. This is of course determined by the existing fitting buttons which would be a hassle to move so I was pleased it just cleared.

My wheel set were missing their plastic backing to the brackets but I cut replacements from a PVC mat of the correct thickness (a token bit of red!).

After tightening the fixing nuts I cut the excess thread off, filed smooth and painted with a few coats of a car silver touch up stick so there wasn't a hint of a rough edge to rub on the air floor when deflated & packed.

Even so I've just ordered these nut plastic caps which I've used before to be totally sure there is a smooth end presented to the air floor when rolled up...

10 pack of M8 Nylon Plastic Hex Nut Cover Cap BLACK | eBay

As these wheels were a used set they were also missing some of their washers that stop the plastic rim rubbing on the axle tube R-clip and split pins so sourced some M30 stainless ones on Ebay. Also bought some larger stronger axle end R-clips as I've lost one at the slipway before causing much inconvenience. Finally bought a spare pair of clevis pins as losing one of these on a day out is a pain too.
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Old 17 September 2015, 19:08   #23
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Finished job... these Trem HDs are my favourite transom wheel overall having tried most types.

One of the advantages of their wide set position being determined by the existing buttons is in the flipped up position they are well clear of the outboard when turning.
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Old 17 September 2015, 23:45   #24
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Nice job

The only problem I've had with mine is pushing them down when they're on in the water so I had a 4" stub of stainless tube welded onto each leg. They sit above the transom in the up position and don't foul the engine when down, makes them a lot easier to use.Click image for larger version

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Old 18 September 2015, 01:11   #25
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I use my foot to push the wheel down under the water and get it near then use my hand on the leg to locate the button, never had a problem.
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Old 18 September 2015, 04:40   #26
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I remember your mod Paddlers.

This is the second set of Trems I've had... the first set were fitted to three different SIBs until I "gave" them away with one I sold a few weeks ago. Each time I've found there is a difference in the firmness with which they click into the up/down position. I found this could be adjusted by putting washers behind the bottom button and/or bending the cheeks of the bracket.

The boat's outside on the lawn and it's raining now but when it stops I'll be out doing that last fettle because at the moment these are just a bit too tight.

I only ever put these up or down at the slipway so like Steve use my foot if they're tight so get on OK but there's no doubt those neat extra handles could be useful.
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Old 18 September 2015, 07:00   #27
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Mine were a right bugger as I tend to leave them down until I've loaded the family then motor out to deeper water as where we go is a shallow beach. Found myself pushing them down with a paddle.
I didn't want to remove the bottom bolt and even the kids find these manageable plus gives a bit more control when you're putting them down to motor back in. Easy to miss the stud.
Yours looks a nice tidy job Fenlander .
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Old 23 September 2015, 19:30   #28
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Just to round off the nut caps arrived... they finish the job off nicely and present a totally smooth face to the air floor when packed.
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Old 25 March 2016, 21:57   #29
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Hi Fenlander, I have been looking through your posts and advice on these wheels as I am boltless on one wheel , end up using a hammer to free the wheels and it is the most time consuming and stressful part of the launch and landing. I am inspired to buy a pair of Trem HD that utilise the button on the Aerotec 380 as you have. Can you send me a link to this particular set of wheels utilising the button? What material do you use to protect the transom when folding up?
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Old 25 March 2016, 21:59   #30
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Finally, what sort of resin and paint do you use when you have drilled the holes? I have holes that need waterproofing from the light pole and will need to waterproof these as well.
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