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Old 01 January 2012, 22:58   #1
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Transporting Motor

Hi,

I am new to Ribs and have a Honwave T35 and a Honda BF20 outboard.

I am looking into getting a trailer but am unsure whether to get a bunked boat trailer (e.g. from Extreme trailers) or a box trailer and add my own bunks (which I have seen at least one example of on here).

I have read that it is not advisable to transport the boat on a trailer with the outboard attached. I don't like the idea of transporting the outboard in the car, partially for space reasons.

Are there any options for mounting the outboard separately on a boat trailer ?

Alternatively has anyone else modified a box trailer to take a similar sized boat (so that the outboard can go in the trailer) ?

Many thanks,

Dominic
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Old 02 January 2012, 01:24   #2
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Fit a strengthened plate to your trailer to act as a transom would and mount your outboard to that. So either the car-end or the lightboard-end (front or back!) of your trailer box could hold your outy as your boat would. The engine would be exposed but I would imagine that would only be for the journey and would ultimately help come unloading.
Damned good idea actually..........why haven't I done that?
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Old 02 January 2012, 03:54   #3
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I've always transported my outboard attached to my inflatables transom while on the trailer, with absolutely no ill-affects (two 20hp on previous sibs, now a 40hp tohatsu). Just be sure that the transom is fully supported by the trailer and the motor is left down (not tilted up) unless you use a transom-saver support. If you are going to go with a trailer, no sense taking the motor on and off. The sibs I have towed that way: achilles, dynous, bombard.
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Old 02 January 2012, 08:23   #4
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I've always transported my outboard attached to my inflatables transom while on the trailer, with absolutely no ill-affects
I used to have the 25 hp on the back of a yam 380s this way. First time I ever carried it on the trailer I strapped the engine down into the boat, lifted it out when we got there. Left it to allow the oils to settle and never took it off again

No sign of damage and the boat / engine is still going strong with the new owner - now 10 years old!

I used to carry with the engine up - not down - as there wasn't enough road clearence.
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Old 02 January 2012, 09:23   #5
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Hi Dominic

With an inflatable hull the rollers would be no good at all. You'll want a bunked trailer, with pads to support the soft keel too, instead of keel rollers.

I'll post a pic up later, so you've got a better idea of what i'm talking about.
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Old 02 January 2012, 09:59   #6
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I suppose this all depends on whether the boat will be deflated for transport (in a box trailer), and also on how many hands you have helping with the launch.
But as far as engine up or down whilst on a trailer, I've had five boats and the engine has always been up whilst on the trailer.......there's no clearance otherwise.
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Old 02 January 2012, 16:39   #7
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Hi Dominic

With an inflatable hull the rollers would be no good at all. You'll want a bunked trailer, with pads to support the soft keel too, instead of keel rollers.

I'll post a pic up later, so you've got a better idea of what i'm talking about.

Like this:

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Old 02 January 2012, 18:07   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dominic_baker View Post
Hi,

I am new to Ribs and have a Honwave T35 and a Honda BF20 outboard.

I am looking into getting a trailer but am unsure whether to get a bunked boat trailer (e.g. from Extreme trailers) or a box trailer and add my own bunks (which I have seen at least one example of on here).

I have read that it is not advisable to transport the boat on a trailer with the outboard attached. I don't like the idea of transporting the outboard in the car, partially for space reasons.

Are there any options for mounting the outboard separately on a boat trailer ?

Alternatively has anyone else modified a box trailer to take a similar sized boat (so that the outboard can go in the trailer) ?

Many thanks,

Dominic
Hi Dominic

I like yourself am a Yorkshireman and a very recent Honwave owner. AE3.8 with a 20hp. I came across your exact problem, I have just bought an indespension mini roller coaster trailer. I am at this very moment adding a bar across the rear of the trailer with two uprights and a beam across (exactly above the transom). Next I am going to put a lifting harness on the outboard so that I can raise the outboard's weight off the Honwave. My idea is to keep the 'rib' on the trailer in my garage with the outboard permanently attached. Whilst in storage I have put two bunkered planks (decking) under the tubes to take the weight off the underside and the rollers.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Grahame
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Old 02 January 2012, 18:25   #9
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FWIW, I personally think a flat trailer with carpet strips up the sides and middle are the best for a sib with an inflatable keel. Deflate the keel once on the trailer and it sits nice and flat. No need to remove the motor.
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Old 02 January 2012, 19:48   #10
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You need to take consideration of the balance of the trailer if you take the engine off and put it else where. Most roller or bunk trailers will be set up to have the outboard on the back of the boat so if you take the engine of and put it in the car the set up will be quite nose heavy after you take the weight off the back of the boat.
Also be carefull if you mount the outboard on the front or back of a box trailer as suggested earlier as a 20hp isn't a light engine and could unbalance your trailer again if its hung on one end of it.
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Old 02 January 2012, 22:34   #11
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Thanks for everyone's replies so far.

The best idea I have found so far is as shown in the RIBnet link below from chris123, where a box trailer has bunks added.

Has anyone elese done this ? Any photos would be great ?

Regards,

Dominic

http://www.rib.net/forum/f49/trailoe...sib-26742.html
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Old 03 January 2012, 00:45   #12
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Originally Posted by dominic_baker View Post
Thanks for everyone's replies so far.

The best idea I have found so far is as shown in the RIBnet link below from chris123, where a box trailer has bunks added.

Has anyone elese done this ? Any photos would be great ?

Regards,

Dominic

http://www.rib.net/forum/f49/trailoe...sib-26742.html
^^^^ Is a good idea if you plan on taking the motor on and off. If you plan on keeping the motor on that isn't a good idea, as then you have to lift the boat on and off, which you would not be able to do with the motor on.

If you are dead set against keeping the motor on, why even bother with a trailer? Just inflate/deflate each time. It only adds about 15minutes. You can make of have a box/motor mount combo made that would slide into a receiver hitch an put your extras in the box and put the motor on the carrier.

It doesn't seem to make much sense to me either way (motor on or off) to use a box type trailer, as then you have to lift the boat each time you load or unload. BUT, it comes down to being a personal preference, and whether you inflate/deflate, trailer with the motor on or off, use a flat-bed utility or a box trailer, have fun boating!
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Old 03 January 2012, 00:51   #13
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I suppose this all depends on whether the boat will be deflated for transport (in a box trailer), and also on how many hands you have helping with the launch.
But as far as engine up or down whilst on a trailer, I've had five boats and the engine has always been up whilst on the trailer.......there's no clearance otherwise.
If you do decide to trailer with the motor on, and need to keep the motor tilted due to low ground clearance, you should really consider a transom saver bar, or strap the motor to help prevent the extra stress created on the tilt/bracket mechanism. They are not designed to take the abuse while being trailered and bounced around and may be damaged.
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Old 03 January 2012, 04:58   #14
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Man that box trailer seems like alot of work. And hard to keep the 20hp 4 stroke in proper orientation to keep the oil in the pan.

I'd go with a trailer you can back into the water properly to actually launch the boat from. Wide bunks up front are plenty supportive. And the transom will take the load of the engine in the rear. A transom saver is enough to give 3 point support so it lasts.
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