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Old 26 April 2013, 19:03   #1
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Country: Canada
Boat name: WB465
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Trailer for 16 foot Zodiac

I have a new Zodiac Workboat 465. It's 4.65 m or 15.5 feet long, and very similar to a MkIIIGR or an FC 470 minus the Futura full (speed tubes). I'm looking to buy a trailer for it plus a 40-50hp outboard. Any turnkey solutions? I'm looking for specific designs or sale recommendations given the heavy weight on the transom. Thanks in advance.
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Old 26 April 2013, 19:36   #2
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You'll need a bunk trailer for top tubes support & attached engine on transom.

Happy Boating
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Old 27 April 2013, 04:01   #3
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
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RIBase
As Loco mentions - a bunk trailer with support. Think its called a transom saver. Basically a metal arm at the rear of the trailer that supports the outboard leg. Fairly standard on your side of the pond.
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Old 27 April 2013, 09:26   #4
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Proyectile,

Do you plan to launch sib backing trailer alone, with car, sub to water, use a crane at a local or city marina ? If you like simple & cheap designs check this :

http://www.pbase.com/locozodiac/locozodiac_362 (Pics 05 to 08) This model includes a transom engine support.

Happy Boating
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Old 27 April 2013, 12:24   #5
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I have a Highliner trailer that is made somewhere near the Vancouver area. It's been 8 years, and no problems (aside from the usual consumables - tires, actuator/coupler, springs and brake backing plates.)

Kind of depends on where in Canada you are though.

Agree that bunks are the way to go with a SIB; two bunks sitting at about the floor-tube seam supporting the transom, and one center bunk to support the keel at the front. A large block on the winch post will give you some registration for how far forward to load the boat.

jky
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Old 27 April 2013, 13:28   #6
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What do you guys think of this:

CastleCraft Trailer for Inflatable Boat and RIB | Trailex Trailers for Inflatables and RIB
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Old 27 April 2013, 22:32   #7
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Have to be careful with aluminum trailers; make sure that the buoyancy of the tires doesn't float the back end when the boat is off. Can be trouble in surge or current even if it doesn't float, as it'll be light.

jky
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Old 29 April 2013, 12:26   #8
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Prairie Tuber: what do you think?
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Old 30 April 2013, 02:41   #9
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Hi Projectile,

One major postive about the trailer in your link is that its has exceptionally wide bunks which should greatly reduce stress and abrasion of the fabric.

The trailer does look to be fairly short for that length of boat and if driven like shown in the picture would place huge stress on the transom. Assuming the trailer were longer, you could probably fabricate a removable skeg support that would slide in place like a receiver hitch for transport and be pulled off prior to launch.

So far I've only owned 3 boat trailers, (all have been steel framed) so I don't have any experience with the point that John Y brought up about aluminum trailers being susceptible to currents. It's definitely something to consider if you will be launching on rivers or good sized lakes that tend to get windy. Hopefully some of the aluminum trailer users can give their perspective on this.

The last thing that strikes me about that trailer is the tiny tires. I can't imagine that they would be safe on the highway and they'd get stuck on every little rut on forestry roads. I would look for a fairly common sized trailer tire so that you could easily replace it from just about anywhere.

I've destroyed several cheap Princess Auto bought trailer tires (Carlisle, Lodestar etc...). Currently I have Goodyear's HMG2020 bias 205x14 8 ply which they make for U Haul trailers. They have been tough as nails and haven't even had a flat with them. If you can find a pair grab them (just not off someone's U Haul trailer )

Depending on how much time vs money you are willing to spend, you could probably buy a sturdy used conventional steel framed boat trailer of similar length for less than half the price and make your own bunks for it.
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Old 30 April 2013, 11:37   #10
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Looks to me like the transom is supported by inside bunks (lower pic has 2 inside bunk supports leaning towards the center of the trailer.) Actually, it looks like there might be a total of 6 bunks on the trailer: 2 just off centerline, and a pair cradling each tube side.

Agree that larger wheels are better than smaller (fewer revolutions per given distance trailered); tradeoff is how high the trailer ends up being (assuming you don't change the axle height.) Advantage of going with 13 or 14 inch rims is that tire availability goes up quite a bit; will likely be cheaper as well.

One last point: If you do go with aluminum, keep an eye on spots where bolts go through. Steel hardware and aluminum structural parts are prone to dissimilar metal corrosion.

jky
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