Originally Posted by Roflhat
Yeh mine is now a 2-piece. The reasoning behind the 3-piece floor was so that the boat could be rolled up into a smaller area (there's a rule in racing which required the boat to be rolled up into certain dimensions.) The two floorboards now are the same length, but the boat tapers towards the bow. For the thundercat dimensions were enough, for a surfcat you'll probably want a template. If you're going for less boards take into account the thickness of the bit that joins them.
I never take the floor out of my boat, but thundercat (the brand) hulls are prone to the boards popping out when the tubes go a bit flat. I did consider going for a single piece floor, but this would require either removing the transom or nose cone, which would be a lot of work...
Im definitely going for a two piece floor then. I recently let the boat down to take the existing floor out, and I won't be rolling it up any time soon. the hijackers are very stiff and I fear if I ever tried to fold/ roll them they would prove quite brittle and possibly sustain damage, so best not mess with that.
Also as I have a jockey console across two sections of the existing floor it will sit much better on a single piece of floor. Being able to crank its bolts down hard will add considerable stiffness to the whole structure
I measure the exising floor at just over 14mm thick, so I'm going with decent quality 12 mm marine ply with a layer of biaxial glass and epoxy each side. I'm also going to add some longitudinal carbon stiffening (unidirectional tape) top and bottom from the transom, under the lines of stress down either line of bolt holes either side of the console. I also know now where all holes etc will be so will add epoxy/ high density filler inserts for all screw/ bolt holes. The front section of the floor I will layup a bit lighter- just sealed 12mm plywood as it appears to only really serve to push the rear sections back into the transom- very rarely will anyone be standing on it. I'll finish the whole lot with kiwigrip.
I have also already added a drain plug to the bottom of the fabric floor at what looks to be the low point (about 14 inches forward of the transom). This is so that when the boat is in storage the new floorboard is not swimming in rainwater most of the time- which is what killed the last ones.
Now, back onto my fabric outer floor. I jacked the boat us and got underneath with a few inches of water covering the whole floor- the result was a bit like standing in a shower. Thanks for the link Rolfhat. I betray my money saving obsessions here, but, that fabric looks awfully expensive for what it probably is. I apreciate the glue is very specific and i won't be skimping on that. However, the floor of my boat looks exactly like the bog standard PVC sold as trailer sides/ advertising banner/ boat cover PVC of which I have lots in stock. If i was repairing the tubes that would be a different matter but the floor is a comfort item not essential for the safety of the boat.
Has anybody tried repairing boats with this much cheaper pvc?
The issue with my boat is the trailer chafe damage and future protection, so my repair patches ideally will be two 6 inch wide but very long strips almost the whole length of the boat, which would prove expensive with the 'marine markup'. There are multiple old repairs under there, in odd shapes and multiple colours, but they are all along these two straight lines. Much better I think to clean all of these off, sand back, and apply new, neat looking symetrical patches/ future wear strips. In fact, if I can get away with cheaper PVC I could consider covering the whole floor underneath and a few patches on the inside (which will be hidden by my new floor. The result should look like chafe protection rather than damage repairs.