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Old 10 September 2012, 13:10   #11
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I've done exactly as suggested above (raise the engine about 2cm with a piece of wood secured with double sided tape) and there is a definite improvement. It won't go any higher, I tried a thicker piece of wood and the clamps touched the ridge at the top of the mounting bracket, so the engine was not secure.

Adjusting the engine tilt position did not seem to make much difference (second/third/fourth hole from the bottom) the biggest improvement for planing is if I sit on the seat at the front of the boat and use a a tiller extension.
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Old 10 September 2012, 14:20   #12
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With well inflated sib you need minimum 40 cm from transom border to lower keel for that sib to perform as expected, trim engine to look vertical and move your weight forward. Once you have finally matched perfect engine transom height you could re arrange engine plates to match transom border line for engine clamps to rest at middle inner plate.

Happy Sibbing
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Old 10 September 2012, 16:09   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locozodiac View Post
With well inflated sib you need minimum 40 cm from transom border to lower keel for that sib to perform as expected, trim engine to look vertical and move your weight forward. Once you have finally matched perfect engine transom height you could re arrange engine plates to match transom border line for engine clamps to rest at middle inner plate.

Happy Sibbing
The distance from the top of the transom to the keel is 16 inches. I don't know what you mean by "re arrange engine plates" though. I'm not sure there is any more l can do with this installation.
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Old 10 September 2012, 16:19   #14
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He means the engine mounting plate. If you raise it on the transom (if possible) you will have more usable "lift" as the engine screws can be fitted higher on the transom then

So, have you decided yet which one of those props you don't need...
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Old 10 September 2012, 16:43   #15
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I don't think it would be easy to raise the engine mounting plate on this boat, as it is only on the back of the transom.
It seems to be better with the piece of wood to raise the engine, so l will go with that for now. Now l need to try this new propeller.
It seems though, that there is a 6 mph speed limit on the waters around Golant and St Mawes where we are staying.
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Old 10 September 2012, 18:50   #16
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Can somebody tell me how tight the castellated nut should be that holds the prop on? I just removed the prop and the nut was only finger tight, held by the split pin of course so it would never have come off.
As this is a new engine is that correct, just tightened by hand and then put the split pin in?
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Old 10 September 2012, 18:55   #17
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torque will be in the manual - but yes, not particularly high.
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Old 11 September 2012, 05:04   #18
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It's not correct. You need to tighten the prop nut fully and then be able to insert the pin, if it doesn't line up with a hole then add shims until it does.
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Old 11 September 2012, 10:21   #19
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I tightened the nut until the pin could be fitted, but it's only just over hand tight.

This was the same with the original prop.

I'll check the manual for prop nut tightening torque when I get home, but it's not going to come loose with that split pin in place.

Should there be a washer that goes on before the prop is fitted?
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Old 11 September 2012, 10:26   #20
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You should have a inner metal plate for the clamps to be adjusted against, having both matching same height as wooden shim border line would be perfect. By placing a 2 cm transom shim, has spash issues been solved ? All transom heights and sib tubes are not same, so will need to get a perfect marriage between transom height, engine brand and tube diam.

Happy Sibbing
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