Speed

harpo · 25 August 2014, 06:49

What would be the top speed of a zodiac futura 1997 with speed tubes fitted with 30hp 2stroke twin with steering console .
Regards chris

Landlockedpirate · 25 August 2014, 08:25

Depends on which Futura.

Mk2C FR (overpowered) would do 30kts.

Mk3 FR 28kts

The above numbers will depend on actual prop fitted.

harpo · 25 August 2014, 08:40

The one I have is the aluminium floor 4.2 . How does the prop fitting work bigger prop more speed what is the biggest I can put on . Does the tilt make a difference ?
Regards chris

Landlockedpirate · 25 August 2014, 10:12

I had a 50hp on my 4.2, would guess it willl do 25kts with a 30hp and lightly loaded.

Props are a dark art, its about getting the correct prop for your boat and application, generally consider a prop with a smaller pitch to be a lower gear, higher pitch-higher gear.

But just like a car, if you select a too high pitch (gear) the performance will suffer, rather than going faster. Trust me, stick with the general use prop till you have tried it, I cant see a problem on your boat.

Tilt makes a huge difference as well. Start at the bottom setting and give the boat a run. Trim it up 1 hole at a time, you will get more speed, but trim too far and you lose 'grip' on the water and the prop starts to cavitate, especially in corners.

harpo · 05 October 2014, 10:05

Thanks for the reply I have been using the boat every weekend and iam starting to get used to the speed . I have damaged the prop (knocked the corner off a blade ) so probably have to get another one 9 7/8 x 14 - f . The seals round the bottom of the boat were the black sticks to red has little drips in a co . I was thinking about fitting some sort of pump to the holes on the transom . Do you think that's a good idea ? Regards chris

jyasaki · 05 October 2014, 17:45

The drain holes? There should be a plug that goes in (from the outside - pressure fit.) They normally still leak a bit. I haven't seen a SIB yet that remains dry (and depending on where you run, you may get a *lot* more water in over the rubes than through the leaky scuppers. You don't want to block them, as they are your only avenue for getting a ton of water out of the bilge (pull the plugs and run at speed for a while and water drains out.)

Peter_C has a Zodiac SIB that he fitted a bilge pump to; you'd have to look up his post to see exactly how he did it.

jky

Peter_C · 05 October 2014, 18:49

I wouldn't recommend a bilge pump to most people. My situation is different in that I beach launch and recover a heavy boat in surf. Every pound I can shed makes a difference. Plus I have a large AGM battery fitted.

Instead fix the leaks in the "co"? If that was supposed to be corner, and they are really small you might be able to super glue them. If not some proper adhesive should do the trick. Put the boat in the water without the floor boards in, grab a paddle and float around with a permanent marker in hand. When you see a leak, mark it. Once the boat is dry, repair any leaks.

Keep the scupper plugs in place when stopped as they will fill the boat until it reaches neutral buoyancy. If and when you want to drain the boat pull the plugs with the motor off, and start the motor and go for a high speed drive. It will be drained in a matter of minutes.

Here is my thread on bilge pumps. For me it works awesome and I use it every time out.
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/bilge-pumps-49659.html

harpo · 05 October 2014, 19:01

Thanks for reply , it should of been a couple of places . The scupper plugs it says in the book to leave them out when using the boat . I did that and it filled with water but one of the rubber things were missing . I will have to try with one only to see if it works is it usual to run with the plugs out ? When glueing the seam do you paint the glue on top of the seam or open up the joint and get it in their the leaks are drips noticed when it was on the trailer after a big down pour .
Regards chris

Landlockedpirate · 05 October 2014, 19:12

Unfortunately it sounds like you have the normal Zodiac/Bombard glue failure problem. At the moment its just minor, but its an indication that the rest of the glue is about to fail. The only solution is to remove all glued elements (transom, floor, handles etc), clean all the old material off them and then re-glue using correct PVC 2 pack. The good news is that its not expensive or difficult to do,the bad news is that it takes a long time.

I use a kayak bilge pump attached to the transom to remove water (we ship quite a lot when sking and boarding ),like this :

MANUAL HAND BILGE PUMP WASTE WATER Canoe Kayak Dinghy 16" BARRELL | eBay

No need to buy a new prop if you dont want to, send it to Steel Developments and they will return it good as new for 1/3 cost of a new one.

http://www.steeldevelopments.net/

Peter_C · 05 October 2014, 19:20

Since it is really cheap to replace the rubber plugs I would recommend replacing both. Gently pry out the round black deals to replace the rubber. My replacements required I drill out the center of the black deals.

I rarely left my plugs out. Typically only did so when the water was obvious, or when returning to the boat after diving as we always drag a lot of water into the boat.

The seams could be gently separated if possible, otherwise a little glue over the top should stop the leak, but make sure to inspect the bottom.

At this point I would question all the glues integrity too?? I had to reglue my entire boat bottom. It is very common for the glue to fail after 10 years.

Landlocked beat me to it. Landlocked how do you get the water out from under the floor boards? Did you drill a hole? Or is the pump connected to the one of the scupper holes outside?

harpo · 05 October 2014, 19:31

Thanks , I will lift it up and fill it up mark the drips. . I will get the two pack glue I believe the boat is pvc . I will repair the prop as they are expensive to replace . If the boat has to be reglued do those joints have to be opened up or just tickled over the top with glue .
Regards chris

Peter_C · 05 October 2014, 20:44

If the glue is failing it will require complete disassembly from the bow to the transom. The actual tubes are thermo welded and won't generally fail. It is all the black parts that require repair. FWIW it is a huge job that takes around 40 hours. Not worth it to pay some one, but a handy person with only a few items can do it. Heat gun, some scotch brite scuffy pads, acetone, MEK, disposable paint brushes, a container to measure and mix the glue, along with a few other minor items is all it takes. To be clear it is a BIG project.

As to filling it that should work, but I would recommend taking the floor out and floating it for confirmation of the repairs.

Landlockedpirate · 05 October 2014, 20:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter_C

Landlocked beat me to it. Landlocked how do you get the water out from under the floor boards? Did you drill a hole? Or is the pump connected to the one of the scupper holes outside?

I have fitted a smaller (1/2") pipe and I can just about get the pipe between the air floor and the outer skin in the corner between the transom, tube and floor. I then route the pipe down to the lowest point under the floor.