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Old 12 August 2009, 13:34   #11
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Country: UK - Wales
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Boat name: DynaMoHumm/ SRV/deja
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yep
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Old 12 August 2009, 14:14   #12
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Country: Canada
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Make: QS 330 airdeck
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Engine: 15hp Johnson 2-strke
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My old QS 430 boat had similar "MILITARY transom reinforcement" to hold 15hp 2 stroke. It was working ok on a ROTTEN transom...I rebuid the transom and did not reqire the "special MILITARY grade" reinforcement anymore.
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Old 13 August 2009, 03:53   #13
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That looks like a similar concept to what I had in mind. Triangulating the floor and transom has got to add strength, eapecially with some stainless steel.
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Old 13 August 2009, 09:01   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theboysmiffy View Post
That looks like a similar concept to what I had in mind. Triangulating the floor and transom has got to add strength, eapecially with some stainless steel.
It is a nice idea, hoever, you'l loose on the space near transom, gas tank and other thinks will be less easy to organize. There is an easier alternative, that you could use as an option.

You could have a look at your local harware store for a plastic tool box/cooler kind of thing.
In the box you could store your gas tank and other small items. Drill the hole for the fuel line and wires. You could sit directly on the box with motor behind you, easier to steer and better balance for the boat and as well as safer, then sitting on the tube.

Here is the reinforcement part, that I've seen somewhere, but can't remember now where....it is way simple as well as adjustable, and I'm not surprised if is more rigid as well.

Place the cooler at the transom, attach rachet belts with bolts or fat screws to the transom and the coller from each side, going from the top of the coller and reaching from the top of the transom to the back. Once you sit on it, your weight will act as counterweight for the motor. Since it is only reinforcement and assuming the transom itself can hold weight of the motor on its own then this should work rather well for you.
For even greater strength, you can attach the front side of the coller to the floor, this way the floor will also act as the counter force for the motor weight.

By installing the cooler/box you'll get: extra seat, storage compartment and reinforcement at the same time, means more comfort and safety for you and your friends.
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Old 13 August 2009, 10:08   #15
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Originally Posted by oujakov View Post

You could have a look at your local harware store for a plastic tool box/cooler kind of thing.
In the box you could store your gas tank and other small items. Drill the hole for the fuel line and wires. You could sit directly on the box with motor behind you, easier to steer and better balance for the boat and as well as safer, then sitting on the tube.
Not a good location for a gas tank!!!
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Old 13 August 2009, 11:28   #16
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Not a good location for a gas tank!!!
No you dont drill holes in the gast tank!
You already have where it will be, you just putting it inside the tool box!

Like on this Pic, on my old boat. You have your things stored inside and you set on top.
Nothing realy cahnges, except things become in order.

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Old 13 August 2009, 12:21   #17
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Thanks oujakov, that looks like a smart solution. I have quite a large outboard so I'm trying to balance the weight by storing under the bow cover using waterproof sacks. I also try to sit as far up the boat as possible to help with this so the box woouldn't work as a seat. I'd be surprised if someone didn't copy your idea though!

Adam
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Old 13 August 2009, 18:10   #18
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Country: Canada
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No problem, I'm always glad to help.
I know even easier solution for the reinforcement, where one doesn't even require any hard work to do.
I'll post it later, as I have to make some carrot juice for my son and Mrs.
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Old 14 August 2009, 05:23   #19
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Just wanted to add glueing instructions. heres the prep basic info part
http://www.allinflatables.com/support/repairs.html

Here are the instructions.
http://www.allinflatables.com/support/pvc.html

I found MEK, lots of lint free rags, scotch brite and elbow grease to be invaluable. I only had to wait 8 minutes between the first coat of glue and 5 minutes before the joining of the seams. But my temps are in the high 90's.

Here is a link to my 310s Cadet floor repair. Enjoy!
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/n...310s%20refurb/
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Old 14 August 2009, 08:09   #20
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Country: Canada
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Originally Posted by teamAssassin View Post
Just wanted to add glueing instructions. heres the prep basic info part
http://www.allinflatables.com/support/repairs.html

Here are the instructions.
http://www.allinflatables.com/support/pvc.html

I found MEK, lots of lint free rags, scotch brite and elbow grease to be invaluable. I only had to wait 8 minutes between the first coat of glue and 5 minutes before the joining of the seams. But my temps are in the high 90's.

Here is a link to my 310s Cadet floor repair. Enjoy!
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/n...310s%20refurb/
Nice pictures, beer is THE ultimate "glue" between the man and his home project! Can't do nothing with no beer.

Your boat must be PVC, as I can see Stabond. I used several times on my boats. I like it a lot.......or you have hypalon boat with PVC bottom?

I see you have older Johnson 15 with electrostart. Looks to be late 70's-early 80's model.
I have 1988 Johnson 15.
Here is the very nice link for the repairs and maintenance of these motors. But very likely you already know about it.

http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Ramblings.html (rumbling #82 and up)


BTW the pics album is reversed, you have the latest pics last.
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