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Old 23 August 2013, 14:27   #11
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Country: USA
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We had a 150 HP with a permanent gas tank which was not rigged to run the fuel out of the carbs. It only cost us six pistons, rods, assorted bearings and gaskets, etc when the jet got gummed up.
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Old 23 August 2013, 15:44   #12
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Country: UK - England
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I've never run my car dry and never had a problem so never even considered running the outboard dry.

The only time I would is if I had a portable one, wanted to stick it I'm the car and didn't want fuel all over the boot.
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Old 23 August 2013, 15:57   #13
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I don't have the luxury of running dry or flushing immediately after use. But when I flush at home, possibly 2 weeks later, I always run it dry as its probably not going to be run for some time. Always surprised how long engine will run after disconnection - probably 5 minutes or more.
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Old 23 August 2013, 16:56   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomas View Post
I've never run my car dry and never had a problem so never even considered running the outboard dry.

The only time I would is if I had a portable one, wanted to stick it I'm the car and didn't want fuel all over the boot.
But how often do you run your car on two stroke and how often do you park your car up for weeks on end letting the petrol evapourate out and leaving the gunk behind...
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Old 23 August 2013, 16:57   #15
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I was told to do this when I purchased a new Honda 90 4 stroke back in 2001. I was told to just let it idle, no reving, and then crack the drains on the bowls. Did it regularly for 12 years without any issues. Only time I had a problem was when I forgot to before a period of non use but $400 and a good ultrasonic cleaning later they were fine....

jason
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Old 23 August 2013, 17:05   #16
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I would not suggest to do it if you use your engine frequently, but putting it away for winter it would be a good idea.
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Old 23 August 2013, 18:14   #17
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Always run mine dry when flushing in the fresh water tank
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Old 23 August 2013, 21:16   #18
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IF I had run the 150 HP as often as I drive a car, there would be no need to run the fuel out of the carbs.

Years ago, an 85 HP had a jet plug, and we were able to run it at slower sped with the manual choke engaged until we could pull the boat out of the water. When I pulled the jets, they looked clear, but when air pressure was applied, a thick, clear gel blew out of the jet. The high speed jet was completely plugged.

If you feel it is not worth the time to run the fuel out, please go ahead and do that with my blessings. A rebuild may be in your future, but it is only money. The best way to learn is to pay money for experience.
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Old 25 August 2013, 04:54   #19
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Hi,
Is this a 2 stroke engine issue only or should I be doing this with my BF20 4-stroke as well?
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Old 25 August 2013, 07:16   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
If you have a dry-break fuel connector (the kind with the pin and ball on both sides), disconnecting and running til it dies won't do much. It'll die when a vacuum forms in the fuel line, rather than when the float bowls go dry.

jky
Why would it stop?

Not that very long ago there was a Mariner rep who run his Mastercraft dry and forgot to switch off the ignition when the engine stopped. I seem to remember the clock added approx 600 hours before the battery went dead. I would never name him on an internet forum.....
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