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Old 10 December 2015, 18:22   #1
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Santa came early

Picked up my new Honwave T38 and Honda BF20 today, brought a smile to my face when we inflated it in the back garden. Wind and family life curtailed an outing today so we just tinkered and got familiar with all the bits and pieces.

It broke my heart drilling into a brand new transom to fit the wheels, but it had to be done!

Which raises the question - I should be using something to seal the bolt holes right? What's best for the job as I don't really want an rotten transom in 3 years time.

Thanks

Stig
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Old 10 December 2015, 18:44   #2
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You'll find very few people who would say that Sika Flex 291/292 is not the dogs danglies. There are a few suggested alternatives which some say are just as good. 3M 5300 I think and Tec 7.

Most importantly the advice on here is always that standard silicone is not suitable.

(FYI Sika 292 will be pretty much permanent so don't be planning to unscrew any time soon!) The 3M and Tec 7 may be equiv to 291 or 292 I'm not 100% sure as not used them...
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Old 10 December 2015, 18:51   #3
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Yep I'd say Sikaflex 291 too...

100ml White Sikaflex 291i Marine Adhesive Sealant

What a lovely shiny outboard! Shiny new boaty things are good. How do you find it to lift?

I know what you mean re drilling a new transom but it has to be done.... no problem as long as you get the holes in the correct place first time!

I like the really strong fibreglass/ply/fibreglass sandwich transom of the Honwaves.
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Old 10 December 2015, 19:49   #4
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Thanks chaps, I'll get some on order.

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Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
What a lovely shiny outboard! Shiny new boaty things are good. How do you find it to lift?
Well, initially I was cursing the lifting handle as the outboard would swing around whilst holding it and the grip on the back... I thought I was going to drop it, then I realised you could lock the tiller arm!!! Much easier. I'd not say it's a doddle but it's manageable.

Haven't had it running yet, I'm tempted to stick it in a barrel just to hear it purr.
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Old 11 December 2015, 02:01   #5
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as a new motor I would think you would be better running it on the boat ie under load don't want to glaze the bores
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Old 11 December 2015, 04:19   #6
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as a new motor I would think you would be better running it on the boat ie under load don't want to glaze the bores
I know... The temptation is huge... New toys and all that... Any other quick question...

With a 4 stroke do you run the carb dry when storing after use as I have done with 2 stroke?
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Old 11 December 2015, 09:49   #7
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hahahahaha... what idiot wrote that...

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TBH I don't warm to a SIB but saving over a grand is very appealing.
(was just looking back through some old posts)
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Old 11 December 2015, 10:50   #8
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It's alway amsuing to look back at your own previous statements that you'd never have this or that... and find that's what you have now.

Our SIB journey over the last 8yrs or so has been Zodiac Classic Mk.1, Zodiac 340 air floor, Zodiac Fastroller 360 (x2), Honwave 3.5AE, Avon 3.1, Zodiac 340 Acti-V, old Aerotec and now new Aerotec. They have been variously powered by Seagull, Suzuki 3.5, Tohatsu 9.8, Mariner 15, Mariner 4 and now Mercury 15.

At each change the new (to me usually) boat and/or outboard was chosen with absolute logic and was the most suited to our needs at the particular time... but to the casual observer it has seemed a random meandering through SIB choices.
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Old 11 December 2015, 11:04   #9
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My first intro to 'power' boating was about the age of 14. I lived beside the sea but parents would never buy a boat. My mates and I came by an old rowing boat (one of the neighbours), about 7ft long and my mate had an old Seagull motor. 4 of us out in that, 2 inches of freeboard above the waterline, great fun!

I borrowed that Seagull which my mate's dad had converted from long to short shaft and went exploring our local coastline. Went down to a local harbour about 4 miles away, got some chips, back to the boat... the bugger wouldn't start up... lifted the engine and the gearbox and prop were gone! Seems a retaining bolt has come undone. Had to grovel to the harbour master and get a tow home by a fishing boat.

From that day I was hooked...

A few weeks later my mum said, 'Bumped into the coast guard and he said, was your son one of those clowns out in a tiny rowing boat the other day'...

Bring back the lawless, risky days of my youth please...

Since then I've had a kayak, canadian canoe, vintage speed boat (reckless buy) and now the SIB...
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Old 15 December 2015, 11:29   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinyShoe View Post
You'll find very few people who would say that Sika Flex 291/292 is not the dogs danglies. There are a few suggested alternatives which some say are just as good. 3M 5300 I think and Tec 7.

Most importantly the advice on here is always that standard silicone is not suitable.

(FYI Sika 292 will be pretty much permanent so don't be planning to unscrew any time soon!) The 3M and Tec 7 may be equiv to 291 or 292 I'm not 100% sure as not used them...
3M 5200 is pretty much considered permanent. For a mounting bolt; it's not like 5200 will make the bolt permanent - tools will still break the bond (but don't count on picking any remaining adhesive out of the holes...)

If you want a less aggressive sealant, move to the 3M 4200 line.

Both are polyurethane sealant/adhesives, pretty similar to the Sika line of PU adhesive/sealants.

Another option is epoxy or fiberglass resin (which is also epoxy, I think.)

BTW, if you're sealing the transom, ideally you want to coat the drilled holes' interior, not just goop the stuff around the bolt/screw head.

And as Shiny Shoe stated, bathroom silicone sealant is not going to cut it - it breaks down with water and US exposure.

jky
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