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Old 03 April 2010, 19:05   #11
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Having thought on it (and discussed with my good lady wife!) I have decided to go with the new one piece floor.
Has anyone got any experiance of the birch ply instead of marine ply?
Also, do I make the one piece to replace the rear three square pieces, plus the front triangular-ish piece?
Or do I make one piece to replace all four panels, including the triangular-ish piece?
Cheers,
Geoff
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Old 03 April 2010, 19:39   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff_Jubb View Post
Having thought on it (and discussed with my good lady wife!) I have decided to go with the new one piece floor.
Has anyone got any experiance of the birch ply instead of marine ply?
Also, do I make the one piece to replace the rear three square pieces, plus the front triangular-ish piece?
Or do I make one piece to replace all four panels, including the triangular-ish piece?
Cheers,
Geoff
usually Geoff the front/bow of the boat will have a dead rise ,so the triangular bit will be seperate unless your boat is level all along the deck ,normally the main boards flat and level and the bow comes up to a rise so that will have to have a hinge or some woodern lugs or batterns for it to flex of some sort ,,i think when people say one peice floor it means the main board and the triangular bit is seperate .you should want the 3 square rear pieces as one main board then the front trangular bit seperate .
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Old 03 April 2010, 19:58   #13
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Originally Posted by m chappelow View Post
usually Geoff the front/bow of the boat will have a dead rise ,so the triangular bit will be seperate unless your boat is level all along the deck ,normally the main boards flat and level and the bow comes up to a rise so that will have to have a hinge or some woodern lugs or batterns for it to flex of some sort ,,i think when people say one peice floor it means the main board and the triangular bit is seperate .you should want the 3 square rear pieces as one main board then the front trangular bit seperate .
Thanks Mart, I thought that might be the case.
Has anyone come across Phenolic board being used for this application?
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Old 04 April 2010, 05:19   #14
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Originally Posted by m chappelow View Post
...the replacement for plywood flooboards as now used in the latest d class inshore boats is something called HEXALITE with an aluminium honeycombe core , half the weight of plywood but stronger,pity you cant get a sheet of that.
http://www.hexcel.com/NR/rdonlyres/9...306404PPA4.pdf ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff_Jubb
Has anyone come across Phenolic board being used for this application?
is it not quite heavy?
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Old 04 April 2010, 05:46   #15
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Just my 0.02, but I would stick with marine ply.Although less common than it used to be and more expensive, it is still available and should be better quality.

The OEM floorboards have a combination of thin plywood for light weight, and mahogany edge sections and stringers to give stiffness and load spreading.

If you increase the thickness of the floorboards, you gain weight; if you reduce the thickness of the edge sections you reduce stiffness and also increase the point loading on the tube / floor seams.

I would be inclined to make one floorboard, but with the same overall dimensions, stiffeners etc as the original boards. I suspect size for size and weight for weight plywood is as good a material as any, without getting into exotics.

As Mart says, you should keep the front board separate so that it can flex.

There should be a fixed plank across the boat between the three back boards and the front board. Does your boat have this?

There are probably as many ways of finishing the boards as there are posters on Ribnet . For simplicity and cheapness, a tin of International yacht varnish (the proper stuff from a chandlers not the B&Q equivalent) probably wins. For maximum performance (and cost!), a couple of coats of epoxy resin (to fully seal the boards) followed by a couple of coats of two pack polyurethane varnish (to provide UV resistance) will give you the best results, but is probably overkill.

Cheers

Chris
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Old 04 April 2010, 06:30   #16
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I have not seen phenolic board before but have also heard it is quite heavy, so will rule it out.

My floor is just board into stringers, with aluminium channels between the boards. It is 18mm, so think I will stick with that.

Mine does have the plank fixed across the front.
Are other peoples floors usually thicker than the front triangularish piece?

Just have to work out how to connect the front of the board to the triangular-ish piece. At the moment it is aluminium top and bottom, bolted through the ply.
To be honest, I am thinking of doing the same again. What do you guys think?

Thanks a lot for all your help so far!
Cheers,
Geoff
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Old 04 April 2010, 06:51   #17
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If you are happy with the weight of 18mm board you should be fine. The smaller Avons used to use 1/4" ply with approx 1" edgings - I guess yours may be different either because it is a bigger boat, or someone has changed the boards from the OEM ones previously.

I think the triangular front board would be thinner than 18mm - on my old Avon S250 it was 3/8" ply with an extra strip 3/8" x 2" across the back edge (the pivot edge) where it butted up against the fixed plank. Not sure if it needs to be thinner - I assume if it is the same thickness it might save you materials.

I'm a bit confused about the connection you describe between the main board and the front board - normally the arrangement is:

Transom -> aft board(s) -> fixed plank -> triangular board

On my S250, the aft boards butted up to the back edge of the plank, and the triangular board butted up to the front, with nothing to locate them.

Aluminium top and bottom to locate the boards onto the plank sounds fine, probably more important with a bigger boat.

Cheers

Chris
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Old 04 April 2010, 07:33   #18
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On these photos, the second picture is the first removeable piece (the triangleish) and the third picture is the piece that connect to it (the first of the three square boards).
The first is of the boat just after I bought it, you can just see the floor setup.
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Old 04 April 2010, 08:22   #19
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Whereabouts is the fixed plank, or was there a 'not' missing from your previous post ?

Quote:
Mine does have the plank fixed across the front.
There is a sketch of how my S250 floorboards used to fit together here:

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...on+floorboards

Cheers

Chris
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Old 04 April 2010, 09:02   #20
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Sorry Chris, I meant mine doesn't have the plank inbetween, it has it right at the bow.
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