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Old 24 July 2015, 13:26   #31
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I should admit bias here. My late grandfather was a master craftsman carpenter. It was his lifetime trade from the late 1920s to the early 1960s. I don't have his skills but I do have his huge work chest of tools dating back to Victorian times including internal and external moulding planes that would shape stringers.

His skills in wood were as varied as making a sideboard to repairing a cart wheel or building a whole village hall from timber.... in fact he crafted the toilet seat in the royal box on a major racecourse during refurbishments many decades ago so knew how to engineer reliable support into timber (sounds like a down the pub story but true!).

So I have faith in wood properly chosen & dimensioned for the job.
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Old 24 July 2015, 14:06   #32
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Sorry guys..I lied..I have come back to say a bit more


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Originally Posted by dave3235 View Post
Surely the under side of the stringer could be over engineered to 4mm without any problems .

That would help Dave ..but I don’t think it possible because of the design of the quicksilver SIB stringer. Excuse my rough drawing..but you can hopefully see why the bottom flange of the stringer cant be made thicker... it sits on the ali floor trim edge so can’t get any more thickness.





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Originally Posted by Landlockedpirate View Post
All our Avons and Zodiacs had wood stringers from the mid 70's till the mid 90's and despite abusing every boat we had as kids and breaking most things, we never broke a stringer.

Yup..I do agree LandLocked ...the wooden stringers in the old Avons etc worked perfectly..Im not disputing that fact. Im sure they were carefully designed for the wood that they used


[QUOTE=Landlockedpirate;687452]
The older stringers are just a right angle triangle section with a slot cut in the side for the floor board. At a push you could make some with a saw, chistle and a workmate, but a lot easier with power tools.QUOTE]


That is where our opinion differs.. your description of the wooden profiles are very different to the quicksilver profile..see photo drawing above for the shape of my SIB stringer. The weak bit ..where I think it could splinter is marked in the red stringer area. The shape profile that you describe is not as thin ? I cant see a way of getting the bottom of the stringer under the floor if made to the shape you describe..if that make sense.? To use the shape you describe would mean altering the wide of the floor ..therefore I think we are comparing an apple to an orange in relation to profile shapes and weak points?


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Originally Posted by Landlockedpirate View Post
You could even fabricate a composite stringer easily and cheaply by making a softwood section and attaching aluminium strenghtheners to the outside (an 'L' shaped and a flat section). If it breaks the aluminium will hold it all together and minimise any possible risk of damage to the boat.
Now I totally agree with you there..the bottom of the stringer including the part that slots into the edge trim could be made of a section of Ali..with wood attached to the top of it. That would work the wood stringer perfectly.


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So I have faith in wood properly chosen & dimensioned for the job.
Yup..I agree ..wood is great material..but the important part is as you mentioned “dimensioned for the job and carefully chosen wood. “ My only concern is that thin bottom flange as shown on my drawing is not dimensioned for wood ?
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Old 24 July 2015, 14:30   #33
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So these are wooden floor boards with an alloy edge and then a stringer??

If so two options... lose the alloy edge and make a "super stringer" that takes the place of the edge + stringer mating directly to the wooden floor panel edges... or cut some width from the alloy edge to allow room for a more conventional wooden stringer that has some meat above and below the flange that slots into it??
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Old 24 July 2015, 14:58   #34
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Yup Fenlander ..I can only assume Mikes SIB is the same..but mine is wooden floored ..with an Ali trim.. then the stringer slots into the Ali trim while sitting on it. I do know the two rear floors flex..even in the confines of the heavy ali stringer..because my big feet rest on the join when Im seated..and I can feel the movement in rough water. So there will be some pressure on the wood ..enpecially that thin flange. I also have to hammer the stringer out when I dismantel the SIB.. so it is a tight fit there.

Agreed..cut the ali floor off and fit a "conventional" wooden shaped stringer..make laminated stringer etc.. but I would still just bolt a square piece of wood to the floor ..along the edge of the Ali trim for stringers. Wingnuts on the bolts would easily allow the stringer to come out for dismantelling... heads of bolts glued onto floor..possibly those coach type bolts that have flat heads so as not to interfere with the bottom material... less faf that altering the whole floor ? Protect the edges of the trim so they dont cut the tubes..and perhaps the occasional piece of shaped wood to hold the floor againt the tubes..if that makes sense ?

Many ways to do it..I just dont think making a stringer from wood..the same shape as my stringer would work very well ? Thats all I was debating :-D
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Old 24 July 2015, 15:16   #35
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Hey no stress re debate... your ideas are always top notch. Of course what we don't know is if Mike's doing a daily setup or trailering which makes a difference.

In truth if this was my sib bought at that price I'd probably buy brand new stringers if under £200 the set... my idea of wood was assuming Mike was trying to keep the budget sensible.
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Old 24 July 2015, 15:32   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
In truth if this was my sib bought at that price I'd probably buy brand new stringers if under £200 the set..
+1 to that ..I 100% agree..

Mike appears to has a good engine..the SIB I can vouch for... as a good steady make..handles well in the sea etc ..I have never had an issue with my one.. so why tarnish the setup ?.. butchering floors etc ..for the sake of getting the real parts. Although expensive.. he is still winning on the total price he paid..a grand total for that set up is not bad at all.

Mike ..you could even buy another second hand SIB short term..and use it with the engine you have..order the stringers ..then sell the Quicksilver on and make good money on the deal ..its an investment
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Old 18 August 2015, 15:18   #37
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Thanks to everyone for there help, support and advice. Managed to source 2 1 piece metal stringers from a Yamaha inflatable for £68 including postage fitted them to the boards tonight and they fit like a glove. So quite happy as original parts were coming in at £260 all in.

Looking forward to getting out on the water
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Old 19 August 2015, 02:37   #38
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Thanks for letting us know how you got on Quicksilver Mike.. and I think you are very wise to go the safe route and use metal runners.. you will be glad of them when you hit two meter high waves.. which your boat will handle with ease. Good idea using the Yamaha ones too..a far more realistic price.


You got a very good deal on a great SIB and engine..I wouldn’t swap my quicksilver for any other brand. It has keep me safe and sound ..transporting me over many miles to many remote places and never let me down. That is for me ... what SIBs are about. Enjoy yours too.

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Old 20 August 2015, 04:06   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
Yep... it would be daft not to message the buyer and ask in the stringers are in the shed/garage still.

Max is right though that sold in the used category it should be useable which it isn't... however just to cheer you up as long as that engine is a nice runner it's probably worth 50% more than you paid for the whole lot so you've bought a very cheap engine plus a free boat and free accs. Well done.


^^^^^ This is just what I was thinking! I'm back to SIBs after a good few years away and am amazed at how the 2 stroke engines now hold their prices, (obviously due to the new 4 strokes being so heavy)

I managed a 310 Yam 3.1m with accessories, and an 8hp Yam engine for £800 and I thought I'd done well!

Well done!! An absolute bargain as far as I can see!
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